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Old 01-30-2008, 02:44 PM   #1
plastic torpedo
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Default Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Since I can't post in the how-to section for some reason, and I can't reply to my old thread, I'm going to start a new one. I have some new pictures and a new and improved way to fix the reverse slap all by yourself without any outside help!

I will not go in detail about valve body replacement because that's been covered a number of times. I do want to mention, in most cases the valve body has to be replaced or rebuilt.

Do the prep work and remove any splash guards if you haven't done so, take off the wheel and get your tools ready. This procedure should take about 2-3 hours, might be a bit longer if this is your first time doing it. It's not required that you drain the tranny fluid, but you might as well do that and put some fresh fluid in there while you're at it. Make sure you have the right socket and the end cover gasket (refer to the other thread for specifics)

First things first, locate the big cradle bold to your right, take it out and jam something in between the cradle and the frame. I chose a box cutter knife, something bigger would work better. This will give you enough clearance to take the end cover off without grinding the frame:


Then, go ahead and disconnect the wheel hub and brake caliper assembly from the strut. This will make things easier when taking off the end cover and putting it back in, you will have all the room that you want and you will not bend the end cover tubes:

/\ The picture shows the thing is still connected, but anyway, you get the idea

Get a good look at what you're dealing with:


Take out the bolts holding the end cover in place:


Using a screwdriver, pry the end cover open. Make sure you have something underneath it since some of the fluid will escape:




Slide the end cover towards you. Note that in this picture, I didn't disconnect the wheel hub assembly from the strut tower. YOU HAVE to disconnect them so you can pull both things aside and have enough clearance to take the end cover off. You can get away without disconnecting it, but you will end up with bent tubes. Besides, come on, it's only two bolts and you will save yourself a ton of time:


See? No matter how you twist it, it won't come off. Get that wheel hub disconnected! You won't need to do an alignment or antyhing after you put it back together:


Ahh, there they are! The two NUTS. Your worst enemy is the input shaft nut, which is recessed into the clutch pack to the left. Go ahead and wiggle the clutch pack, it probably has a good amount of play:


And you probably have grooves like this on your end cover. This is the second time I do this procedure, and both times there were groves on the cover on both cars:

/\ notice I bent a tube. That's because I didn't disconnect the wheel hub from the strut tower. If I bent it while taking it off, imagine how incredibly hard it would be to put back in!

Ok, stick your socket inside the recessed opening. You might need to help yourself with a hammer, but don't hammer too hard, you'll need to take the socket out when you're done. This will be a tight squeeze:


Now that the socket is in, secure the clutch pack by jamming a screwdriver into one of the holes. Most people use some sort of a chain or other complicated device. Keep it simple, a screwdriver works well enough. This will stop the clutch pack from rotating, so you can torque the nut properly:


As you can see, I'm re-using the same input shaft nut. If you want to replace yours, you will need a way to stop the clutch pack from rotating in the other direction. You're on your own here.


Torque the nut to 111 lbs, and put everything back together. Installation is the reverse of the procedure. Don't force anything in. Just give it a little push here and there and everything will go back in it's place.

Make sure to not force the tubes back in, you risk damaging some sort of a seal inside the transmission and you will loose 4th gear. Not good at all for driving on the freeway. You will not be easily able to replace that seal.

That's it!

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Old 01-30-2008, 02:47 PM   #2
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

One more thing: scrape the old gasket material off very well. If you don't, fluid WILL leak out as it warms up. This will most likely be spilled on your wheel and you do several 360's on the freeway before you lose all your gears (true story )

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Old 01-30-2008, 09:40 PM   #3
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Thanks for the new pix (better than 1,000 words ea.) and hints Plastic Torpedo. Just a few more questions.

The two bolts to disconnect the wheel hub and brake caliper assembly from the strut are those at the bottom right of the 7th photo correct? Are they so tight as to need a breaker bar? How do you guarantee getting the wheel back on and in alignment?

How long have you been driving with a re-torqued input nut rather than replacing it? Everyone seems to swear they must be replaced.

I found out the torque spec for the end cover bolts is 21 ft-lbs. I will post back my experience if I find anything unique.

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Old 01-31-2008, 05:30 AM   #4
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

I believe those bolts torque to 126 ftlbs. So yeah, you might need a breaker bar. However I probably wouldn't take those bolts loose. I'd take the caliper, the ball joint and tie rod end loose. Then I'd remove the three nuts holding the strut to the car and remove strut and knuckle as an assembly. That way you won't mess up your alignment.

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Old 01-31-2008, 10:30 AM   #5
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

I just took out the strut completely. if they are stock struts, alignment is not hard to get when your done if you can picture the suspension when the tire is on the ground.

and i also heard a new nut should be put on as it has locktight on it.

nice pics!

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Old 01-31-2008, 11:55 AM   #6
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

I had trouble getting both tubes to line up while re-installing the cover. I must have tried for 30 minutes before I found a little trick. There are 2 bolts in the middle of the cover holding one of the tubes in place. I took out the 2 bolts and installed that tube separately. You have to semi align the tube mounting holes before putting on the cover. The cover then slipped right on with only the single tube. I re-installed the 2 bolts before completely putting the cover into place.

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Old 02-01-2008, 01:19 AM   #7
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Crow View Post
Thanks for the new pix (better than 1,000 words ea.) and hints Plastic Torpedo. Just a few more questions.

The two bolts to disconnect the wheel hub and brake caliper assembly from the strut are those at the bottom right of the 7th photo correct? Are they so tight as to need a breaker bar? How do you guarantee getting the wheel back on and in alignment?

How long have you been driving with a re-torqued input nut rather than replacing it? Everyone seems to swear they must be replaced.

I found out the torque spec for the end cover bolts is 21 ft-lbs. I will post back my experience if I find anything unique.
Yes, the bottom right of the 7th photo for the wheel hub and the brake caliper. You cannot possibly mess up your alignment by taking it off. You're not disconnecting it from the steering rack or anything. You just bolt everything back up like it was before and your alignment remains the same.

I've been driving my white saturn (the one in the avatar) for about a year or over a year on the re-torqued nut. I later swapped out to a manual transmission on that car, but the automatic still worked just fine and the nut didn't come loose. Though if you have the extra time and energy, to do it right you'd want to replace the bolt.

Right now, I just got my second saturn, with the reverse slam problem. Replaced the valve body and did the nut and everything works great so far. Didn't replace the nut on it either. But honestly, I think you should replace it. I just didn't because I was lazy.

I don't really know the torque on many of these things, I tighten them by hand. I do a pretty ghetto job at fixing things, honestly. The only thing I tightened to exact specifications was the input shaft nut

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Old 02-01-2008, 01:25 AM   #8
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnOwl View Post
I believe those bolts torque to 126 ftlbs. So yeah, you might need a breaker bar. However I probably wouldn't take those bolts loose. I'd take the caliper, the ball joint and tie rod end loose. Then I'd remove the three nuts holding the strut to the car and remove strut and knuckle as an assembly. That way you won't mess up your alignment.
That's probably a better way. Honestly though I don't think this will mess up your alignment. I'm not a suspension guru though so I wouldn't know. But from the looks of it, and since I had to do some ghetto alignment jobs on my other saturn, I don't think it'll mess it up.

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Old 02-01-2008, 01:26 AM   #9
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackeagle1 View Post
I had trouble getting both tubes to line up while re-installing the cover. I must have tried for 30 minutes before I found a little trick. There are 2 bolts in the middle of the cover holding one of the tubes in place. I took out the 2 bolts and installed that tube separately. You have to semi align the tube mounting holes before putting on the cover. The cover then slipped right on with only the single tube. I re-installed the 2 bolts before completely putting the cover into place.
Damn I didn't think of that at all! Would have saved me a ton of time since I bent the tubes lol

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Old 09-29-2010, 01:31 PM   #10
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackeagle1 View Post
I had trouble getting both tubes to line up while re-installing the cover. I must have tried for 30 minutes before I found a little trick. There are 2 bolts in the middle of the cover holding one of the tubes in place. I took out the 2 bolts and installed that tube separately. You have to semi align the tube mounting holes before putting on the cover. The cover then slipped right on with only the single tube. I re-installed the 2 bolts before completely putting the cover into place.
So would it be a good idea during removal of the side cover to just remove the 2 bolts holding the other tube before removing the cover?

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Old 09-29-2010, 04:12 PM   #11
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

leave it all together. just remember to put plenty of trans fluid on the o-rings during assembly it will make putting the cover back on easier.

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Old 05-06-2011, 01:38 PM   #12
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Hey there ive got a 95 sl2 with 130,xxx miles just did a valve body replacement and re-torqued the input/output shaft nuts. For the first 150 miles or so the car re-learned its shift points and now shifts beautifully but...

Now im getting a strange noise when the brakes are applied at low speeds say < 20. sounds like a kachunk kachunk kachunk but softly like plastic rubbing almost. I pulled the wheel off thinking that it was a brake pad or the caliper mount or maybe even a wheel bearing/cv shaft problem, they are all quite tight and zero play but, when i rotate the disc with my hand back and forth i can re-create the sound from the trans area, it sounds as if the noise is coming from the cv output or possibly from under the pan where the input/output shafts are located, kind of like a bad bearing in the trans or a bit of slop. has anybody experienced anything like this?

any insight would be much appreciated.

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Old 07-21-2011, 10:25 PM   #13
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Ok, I replaced the valve body and the reverse slam is gone and all of the shifting is nice and smooth except from 3rd to 4th. Do you think I should perform the input shaft nut replacement? Where does one acquire the nut and the end cover gasket?

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Old 07-22-2011, 04:11 AM   #14
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

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Ok, I replaced the valve body and the reverse slam is gone and all of the shifting is nice and smooth except from 3rd to 4th. Do you think I should perform the input shaft nut replacement? Where does one acquire the nut and the end cover gasket?
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214643

Output Nut SN21001679
Input Nut SN21001680
Gasket SN21001684

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Old 07-22-2011, 07:48 AM   #15
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

I searched for those part numbers on that site and nothing came up.

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Old 07-22-2011, 08:38 AM   #16
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

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I searched for those part numbers on that site and nothing came up.
Try without the "SN" - the ISN is $3.79
Also - any GM dealer should be able to get those parts.

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Old 07-22-2011, 11:24 AM   #17
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Transmission gasket and nuts part numbers
21003202 is the valve body cover gasket. This fits 96-02
21001684 is the end cover gasket. This fits 91-02
21001679 is the output shaft nut. This fits 91-02
21001680 is the input shaft nut. this fits 91-02

Saturn OEM Parts Source
GM Parts Giant- http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/
GM Parts Direct- http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
Get Saturn Parts- http://www.trademotion.com/splash/in...?siteid=214643
Your local dealers - http://www.partsvoice.com/

You can order them from any of these people or search local dealer stock with partsvoice.

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Old 07-22-2011, 04:48 PM   #18
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

Thanks now I feel extremely dumb. I don't know why I didn't try it without the "SN".

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Old 06-11-2012, 10:48 PM   #19
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

I think that jamming something above the left rear engine cradle might be a bad idea. I tried this, and now transmission fluid seems to be spilling out from between the transmission and engine. Removing or loosening both the driver side front and rear engine cradle bolts might put less strain on the axle seal.

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Old 06-12-2012, 12:13 PM   #20
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Default Re: Reverse Slam - Input Shaft Nut Replacement How-To Version 2

This second version was not nearly as entertaining as the first. No frame grinding or badass grooves.

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