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Old 07-22-2002, 07:59 AM   #1
PFY
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Default how to clean my throttle body?

I need to clean my throttle body and IAC, and was about to use Carb cleaner, but I heard instead that I should use throttle body cleaner... Does it really matter? is my haynes wrong to tell me to use carb cleaner?

On a side note, how hard is it to clean the IAC?

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Old 07-22-2002, 08:03 AM   #2
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get some gm top engine cleaner from your local saturn store. the instructions are on the can.

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Old 07-22-2002, 10:29 AM   #3
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I found the best way is to take the thorttle body off and clean it that way..make sure to have DEEP 10mm socket and gasket handy..

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Old 07-22-2002, 02:44 PM   #4
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Yes, Sam's suggestion is the best way to clean up the T-body.

The carbon gunk usually hides behind the throttle plate and inner area.

Only remove 2 bolts and couple of electrical harnesses.....

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Old 07-22-2002, 03:19 PM   #5
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sounds good, so can I use my carb cleaner for it? I don't really feel like letting it go to waste...

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Old 07-22-2002, 03:40 PM   #6
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My club's website has a tech article on throttlebody cleaning here http://www.saturnracingclub.com/newsite/Page_6.html I would pass on the carb cleaner unless it specifically says that it is sensor safe.

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Old 07-22-2002, 06:59 PM   #7
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Default throttle body

I just finished boring my throttle body, and cleaning it out with Carb Cleaner. Did not know there was a difference between carb / throttle body cleaner.

Anyhow, I used it, and lots of it, all over the throttle body. Popped the sucker back in, and it works good as new. I sprayed the sensors down also, didn't seem to affect anything at all...

Although this isn't recommended, you may be able to use it, but be careful around the sensors.

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Old 07-23-2002, 04:30 AM   #8
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To thoroughly clean the TB, you should remove it. Then, it's only 4 more screws to remove the IAC and TPS. Once you've removed the sensors, the carb cleaner will work just fine. Cleans off the carbon and then evaporates. Be sure to have an extra gasket on hand, in case the old one gets destroyed.

After reassembling the IAC and TPS, and reinstalling the TB, I had to reset the PCM due to a funny idle. I think the computer had to figure out the IAC position after I'd taken it off.


For future reference, if you want to clean the butterfly plate when it's sticking, without removing the TB, I've used Valvoline SynPower Throttle Body Cleaner and it didn't harm the sensors or the IAC O-ring.

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Old 07-23-2002, 09:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Heartbeat - '95 SL2
For future reference, if you want to clean the butterfly plate when it's sticking, without removing the TB, I've used Valvoline SynPower Throttle Body Cleaner and it didn't harm the sensors or the IAC O-ring.
That's what I use and that's how I do it!

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Old 07-24-2002, 03:17 AM   #10
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OK, I guess this is as good a place as any to ask a fairly lame question. The intake tube/TB clamp locks when you open it, and I haven't mastered how to unlock it. A little help here? I really tweaked it last time, so I'm not sure it'll work. Do they sell standard hose clamps that big so that I can just replace it, and if not, where do I get another clamp like the original?

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Old 07-24-2002, 06:19 AM   #11
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You can get a standard hose clamp in that size at any harware or auto parts store.

Abe.

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Old 07-24-2002, 07:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Heartbeat - '95 SL2
OK, I guess this is as good a place as any to ask a fairly lame question. The intake tube/TB clamp locks when you open it, and I haven't mastered how to unlock it. A little help here? I really tweaked it last time, so I'm not sure it'll work. Do they sell standard hose clamps that big so that I can just replace it, and if not, where do I get another clamp like the original?
I had that happen on my 1996 SC2 too! But my 1993 SL2 didn't have the same type of clamp - it was the band clamp with the screw. The first time I took the intake off my 1996 SC2 to clean the TB I had the clamp lock in the open position as you described. I still have the original air intake from my 1993 SL2 even though I initially put a HotShot air intake on it, so I used the band clamp with the screw from the 93 and put it on the 96. So Abe is correct. By the way, I eventually moved my HotShot air intake system from my 1993 SL2 to my 1996 SC2 and put an IceMan air intake system on my 1993 SL2. I could mail my band clamp from the original 1993 SL2 air intake to you because I'm not using it anymore, but it would be faster and less expensive to do what Abe said: get it from a hardware or parts store. I'd recommend getting the band clamp with a screw from the plumbing section of Home Depot (if there are any in your area). It should be between $1 and $2.

On a related note, the upper radiator hose on one of my non-Saturns popped off at the radiator last year, causing me to lose all my coolant within seconds. Guess what? It had one of those same squeeze-type clamps that we are talking about here between the TB and the air intake! So after a quick visit to Home Depot, I replaced all of those squeeze-type clamps on both radiator hoses on all my vehicles (I have four) with band clamps with screws.

Those squeeze-type clamps are nothing but trouble!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg band clamps with the screw.jpg (15.5 KB, 37 views)

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Old 07-24-2002, 07:08 PM   #13
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If you want to get really facy pants you can use these. Gator clamps I have these in strategic places in my car and I wiil eventually replace all my hose clamps with these.

Abe.

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Old 07-24-2002, 07:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Heartbeat - '95 SL2
OK, I guess this is as good a place as any to ask a fairly lame question. The intake tube/TB clamp locks when you open it, and I haven't mastered how to unlock it. A little help here? I really tweaked it last time, so I'm not sure it'll work. Do they sell standard hose clamps that big so that I can just replace it, and if not, where do I get another clamp like the original?

Using a pair of pliers squeeze the clamp tabs together so that the locking clip is loose of the lock tab and then use a flat bladed screw driver to push down on the piece that the lock tab goes into. Then release (slowly) the pliers and the lock clip should slip over and allow the clamp to expand.

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