How To: L300 Spark Plug Replacement

[tweeaks]

I recently received some help getting an L300 I had running. Here is what I am going to contribute back to this community before I leave. Thanks to everyone that has helped me.

I came across a couple of threads that revealed to me something extremely shocking; people are paying in excess of $500 for a sparkplug change due to the "intensive" labor involved. So I decided to do a spark plug removal how to. It isn't a complete step-by-step guide, but should be complete enough to get the novice through this task.

Tools required:



1 Crescent Wrench
1 "5/8 Spark Plug Socket
1 "3/8 Drive Ratchet
1 "3/8 Drive Extension
1 "1/4 Drive Ratchet
1 Pair of Small Channel Lock Pliers
1 Inverted Torx Socket Set

Even if you do not own any tools at most you should spend about $75 for the tools required to do this task.


Looking down at the engine you will see the two intake manifold runners and four boots for each one. Each boot has two clamps. I found that the easiest way to take them off was to use a pair of small channel lock pliers to squeeze the clamp enough to unlatch the clip. I'm sure they make a special tool for this, but I do not have a Saturn dealer here, and no one locally carried it.




The front manifold is a little easier than the rear one. IIRC there are only three bolts that need to be unbolted and the manifold should slide off.



Now there are two bolts that need to be removed and the coil packs can be slid out.



The front spark plugs are now exposed and can be changed.

[tweeaks]

The rear is a little more tricky because there is more that needs to be removed off of the manifold. I have circled things that need to be removed. The solid circles indicates that there is something under that area that needs to be removed. The PCM can either be unbolted or unplugged. Whichever method you choose you may be required to use the re-learn technique for the pass-key system. There are two vacuum hoses that go to a black box that need to be removed. There is a brass fitting that is holding a larger vacuum hose onto the manifold. There is a sensor that needs to be unplugged on the right side of the manifold. IIRC there are four bolts that hold the manifold down. I only have two circled the other two are in the back of the manifold.



This is pretty much what it should look like before you pull off the manifold. Make sure there are no more harnesses or sensors attached to the back of the manifold. I remember there were some, but do not remember where they are. Pull the manifold off and you will expose the coil pack. Unbolt it just like you did the front and pull the coil packs off to expose the rear spark plugs. Change your spark plugs and put everything back!

[tomlct]

I have an Ecotec-4, so of course, it was a simpler job, but congrats - that's a really well-done posting.
Were you able to reuse the round clamps?

[tweeaks]

Yeah; all I did was squeeze them back on with the channel locks. If I had broke them I would have just used some worm drive clamps. They would have worked just fine.

[GregS&L]

Nice pictures! Just out of curiosity what type of replacement plugs did you use - OEMs? Any noticeable performance change after replacement?

My 2001 V6 is only at 62,000 miles, but the time will come. Thanks for the pictures and the discussion.

[hufhouse]

Great post. I did the same repair a few months ago, and I was really worried about those clamps. They aren't nearly as complicated as they look.

BTW, the "proper" tool required to remove those clamps is VERY expensive, I've heard. I removed them with a screwdriver and popped them back on with channel locks.

[bryanv]

Originally Posted by hufhouse

BTW, the "proper" tool required to remove those clamps is VERY expensive, I've heard. I removed them with a screwdriver and popped them back on with channel locks.

I've used channel locks to remove and replace those stupid clamps more times than I care to admit.

I've recently started replacing any that I encounter while working on my 2003 V6 with worm-gear clamps. It's a fairly cheap change and they're so much easier to work with. I figure with the money I'm saving doing things myself, I can afford to make it a little easier next time.

I'm at 72k on my 2003 and haven't needed to change the plugs yet, but I'm sure the time is coming.

I'm curious as to what gap was set on the new plugs...

[ThosJ]

Nice work! Thanks a bundle ($).
ThosJ

[beensmoked]

just use a flathead to pop them off and flat channel locks to close them back up. Make sure though! when you remove the runners! Slide THEM OUT! Do not pull them up to get them out. You will rip the rubber boots. Which cost 15 dollars each. And cause a Leak

[unkle bik]

Originally Posted by tomlct

I have an Ecotec-4, so of course, it was a simpler job, but congrats - that's a really well-done posting.
Were you able to reuse the round clamps?

I have the 2.2L as well. Did you have any problem removing the plugs?

I tried mine 2 years ago and had no luck. I squirted PB blaster and waited overnite and they still wouldn't turn using a breaker bar.

[WEL300]

How do I see the pictures?

[fanboy375]

Yeah, I cant see the pictures either

[mharris73]

To the original poster, please repost the pics or check the format/source they are under. They would make this process immensely easier.

Thanks

[greymink79]

Where are the pictures for this?

[carbon]

Originally Posted by greymink79

Where are the pictures for this?

Gone.