How do you bleed the clutch?

[Carlyle]

Could someone please point me in the direction of a how_to bleed the clutch?
Or post a new how-to?

[turbobuick33]

Not sure if the OEM can be bled, the ones from autozone you need to bleed..Its easier just get the OEM and just bolt it and your ready to go, the OEM is pre bled

[DonP]

Try a search. There was a post a ways back from a person who said he was able to bench bleed a system. Not an easy task. If it is not too late, much easier to buy a pre-bled system.

My experience has been that if one cylinder of a master/slave clutch is bad, the other is probably not all that far far behind, at least with '70s vintage Toyotas.

[Sky King]

If you are talking about the 93 SC-2 you show in your avitar, it can be bled IF it is still the origional master/slave system.

My wife used to have a 93 SC-2 and I bled it. On the side of the slave clyinder on the bell housing, you will find a bleed fitting similiar to the ones on the brakes. It may be partially recessed so you may have to look for it. But you bleed it as you would brakes. The master cylinder has a resevoir on top of it with a removable top. Make sure the resevoir is full. You will need a second person to help. Push the clutch pedal down and HOLD it down. The second person opens the bleeder on the slave. When the fluid flow from the bleeder stops, close the bleeder. The clutch pedal can how be released. Continue to repeat this process untill you have bled the system completely. Every now and then DURING the bleeding, BE SURE to check the fluid level in the resevoir. If it falls too low, you will put air into the system, keep it full during the bleeding.

Later models did not have bleeding capability and if the clutch hydraulic system has been replaced, the new one may not have it either. I know our 95 SL-2 does not have the capability to be bled.

[BarnOwl]

I think this is the thread DonP mentioned. However, as others have said, you're better off just getting a pre-bled assembly. The bleed fitting Sky King mentioned on early models wasn't actually a bleeder screw. It was actually used to fill the system at the factory.

[mrclean92124]

Bleed Sealed master/slave in-car with no mess!

Originally Posted by 00 SLow

I just finished going through hell chasing clutch problems after blowing a hole in the side of my bellhousing. After seeing lots of useful info about clutch related issues in the forum, I thought posting the directions that came with my new hydro assembly would be a be a useful addition. It's clean, dry, and doesn't require disassembling the slave.

I found it easier to bleed with the whole thing installed, with the slave hanging off the trans.

--- Twist the slave cylinder off the transmission, and point it vertically, with the pushrod facing the ground. With the cap off the reservoir, SLOWLY depress pushrod into the cylinder about an inch while watching the reservoir for bubbles. Repeat process until air bubbles no longer appear, usually about 10 to 15 strokes. With the cap still off, slowly press the pushrod in far enough to reconnect the bands on the retaining strap, if not already broken. Reinstall slave and replace the cap. Using short quick strokes, press the clutch pedal 20 to 30 times or until pedal is firm. Under normal usage, small anounts of air remaining will purge itself from the system. ---

[bfreehill]

Originally Posted by mrclean92124

Bleed Sealed master/slave in-car with no mess!

Worked for me too.
in addition to multiple short quick pumps I would then block the pedal to the floor for 10-15 mins and repeat.