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Old 04-07-2020, 04:05 PM   #241
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Wrench Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

What is this hose (and how do you properly disconnect it without breaking anything. It has metal around the hose towards the end of it).

This is on the right side of the engine; on the other side of that black rectangle box with a oil sludge clogged L shaped hose on the left side of the black rectangle box.
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Old 04-07-2020, 04:07 PM   #242
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Wrench Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

2 x large hoses (covered in black oil) which are going into a mystery part (unknown to me).

a) What is this part these hoses are going into?

b) What are the purpose of the hoses (where to they go to backwards)?
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Old 04-07-2020, 04:11 PM   #243
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Wrench Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
Okay, making progress. The small tube on the left of the inlet to the upper intake and the large tube on the right which is completely plugged with gunk... both these hoses connect to the PCV module which I told you should be checked pages ago. I am certain the entire PVC module is full of crap and the cover could likely be blown off. The engine back pressure with no vent to equalized the pressure is what was forcing oil out the gaskets. Same as my wife's L300. You'll need to disassemble the upper intake as I mentioned in the last post in this thread to get to the PCV module. I can help you with more details. If you have a service manual, you should be able to find the parts. It's not difficult, just extremely confusing as everything is interleaved on top of everything else.

All the airbox stuff looked fine and you really didn't need to worry about that pushed in section, just push it back out without cracking any of the plastic. You can't have any holes in that section or it will cause the engine to run poorly if at all.

Don't bother wasting time cleaning the exit of the large pipe because if it is that full of junk at the end... the plastic piece that goes between two of the same size hoses will be full of crap that needs to be cleaned outside the car. Same with the PCV module. it is likely packed full of crap.

Your engine is not running because it can't breathe and somewhere is a large vacuum leak causing the engine to die at idle. Making progress!
Rj,

The PCV module; is this replaceable without a cherry picker or engine hoist, etc ? The upper intake manifold and then I can just sit on top of the block and work on it?
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Old 04-07-2020, 07:13 PM   #244
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

If I'm not mistaken, the snapshots from under the rear center intake manifold with two oil lines is the oil cooler assembly. The oil cooler is a miniature radiator immersed in engine coolant circulating in the engine coolant passages. The input and output oil lines should be from the engine oil pump. '03 L300s use hard lines from the oil pump externally fed to the oil cooler. The oil pressure switch is mounted on this fitting. Best thing to do is spraying the area down with Gunk degreaser. Once the engine is running, come back to check these lines for oil leaks. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 04-07-2020, 07:58 PM   #245
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

See edited snapshots. Correct me if I'm wrong. Degrease with Gunk degreaser.
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Old 04-07-2020, 08:38 PM   #246
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonKastning View Post
.... ....My MAF sensor (the left rubber side of the hose) is bent inwards. If this is cause for replacement it's because I broke it trying to fit the replacement on in 2017.

Also the bottom housing of the air intake system; has a small air hose and I tightened it up with an adjustable metal ring only to bend that hose inwards also. It appears as if when a hose gets bent inwards; it's permanent as I do not know how to remedy.

Are these replaceable parts and if so; is that what needs to be done to ensure no air leaks?
Review edited image. The flexible plastic couplers should not have any damage, cracks, allowing vacuum leaks. The important one is between the maf sensor housing and throttle actuator. If damaged, bending it back to shape and/or using silicone caulking can help seal plastic damage. If silicone is used, clean inside and outside surfaces so sealer can stick to plastic. Let dry for a few hours before placing it back in the engine bay.
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Old 04-07-2020, 08:45 PM   #247
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
If I'm not mistaken, the snapshots from under the rear center intake manifold with two oil lines is the oil cooler assembly. The oil cooler is a miniature radiator immersed in engine coolant circulating in the engine coolant passages. The input and output oil lines should be from the engine oil pump. '03 L300s use hard lines from the oil pump externally fed to the oil cooler. The oil pressure switch is mounted on this fitting. Best thing to do is spraying the area down with Gunk degreaser. Once the engine is running, come back to check these lines for oil leaks. Correct me if I'm wrong.
fdryer,

oil cooler assembly huh. Could the engine oil pump have gone out or awry to cause sludge oil to clog various hoses on the engine?

I will try some Gunk degreaser on that area.
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Old 04-07-2020, 08:48 PM   #248
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
See edited snapshots. Correct me if I'm wrong. Degrease with Gunk degreaser.
fdryer,

If it's the feed hose to throttle; then that could explain idle issues at various readouts with clogged pipes then I wonder?

I am considering a haul to the yard; a L300 https://www.picknpull.com/vehicle_de...JW54R82Y568679 was added to our local Pick N Pull yard on March 02, 2020.

I have yet to see how much has been picked. I should probably try and get all those hoses and that black piece if I can figure out how to get the metal end off the right hose connected to the engine. (It's 3-5 miles away; so I have to walk early to get there).
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Old 04-07-2020, 08:51 PM   #249
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
Review edited image. The flexible plastic couplers should not have any damage, cracks, allowing vacuum leaks. The important one is between the maf sensor housing and throttle actuator. If damaged, bending it back to shape and/or using silicone caulking can help seal plastic damage. If silicone is used, clean inside and outside surfaces so sealer can stick to plastic. Let dry for a few hours before placing it back in the engine bay.
fdryer,

That diagram helps me understand the airflow directions. Thank you. Also; based on the current damage to the MAF sensor and it's accompanying hoses; it's fair to say there is a chance the MAF sensor is incorrectly functioning due to those two flexible couplers?
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Old 04-07-2020, 09:01 PM   #250
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

The flex coupler between the maf sensor assembly and throttle is crucial to the EFI system since all airflow must go thru the maf sensor first. All airflow is measured thru the mass airflow sensor. Signals sent from the maf sensor to the ecm allows the ecm to determine fuel mixtures. If this flex coupling is damaged, the maf sensor sees less air which is interpreted by the ecm as needing less fuel to inject. This results in a lean fuel mixture that affects the engine over its lifetime. If not completely damaged, sealant can help seal against air leaks to allow full airflow thru the sensor.

The coupler next to the air filter housing is just as important to prevent dirty air from entering the maf sensor but not as important as the coupler between maf sensor and throttle actuator.
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Old 04-07-2020, 09:03 PM   #251
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
The flex coupler between the maf sensor assembly and throttle is crucial to the EFI system since all airflow must go thru the maf sensor first. All airflow is measured thru the mass airflow sensor. Signals sent from the maf sensor to the ecm allows the ecm to determine fuel mixtures. If this flex coupling is damaged, the maf sensor sees less air which is interpreted by the ecm as needing less fuel to inject. This results in a lean fuel mixture that affects the engine over its lifetime. If not completely damaged, sealant can help seal against air leaks to allow full airflow thru the sensor.

The coupler next to the air filter housing is just as important to prevent dirty air from entering the maf sensor but not as important as the coupler between maf sensor and throttle actuator.
fdryer,

Duly noted. Hope the yard has a replacement!
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Old 04-07-2020, 10:01 PM   #252
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Wrench Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Okay I must ask! Can leaving 2 rear manifold base torx bits out, cause a massive vacuum leak? Do those intakes have to be securely torx'd down with pressure to create a working vacuum? If so; I didn't know what I was doing earlier as usual when changing the spark plugs on the rear manifold; I ended up using a dominator crow bar and pried the back loose. (What I should have done is re-arranged the back end cabling; I didn't figure this out until later).

I never did fully get it back on 100% with the torx's. In fact, I am not sure where they are and if the yard has them, I will pick some of the torx's up and re-install it with torx's in every single hole. Missing 2 I believe. The far back right one on the bottom and the one on the left rear.
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Old 04-07-2020, 11:29 PM   #253
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Thoe small torx bolts for the intake runners bolt down solid aluminum, not hollow parts. No leak in any of those bolt holes missing torx bolts. If you can find replacements in a junk yard, fine, otherwise they don't have to be torx specific. Regular metric bolts will do just fine.
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Old 04-08-2020, 12:45 AM   #254
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

The center upper intake can be taken off the engine to get to the PCV module. Be gentle with the throttle pieces they are delicate. The ERG base mount will come out after the ERG is removed and the hard line water lines are released ie. pulled up a bit to give enough room to remove the upper intake. There will be a couple more hoses connected underneath the passenger side of the upper intake, but you can be gentle and just fold it over and out of the way. the fuel limes can stay connected as they don't attach to the upper intake. One mistake I made was trying to lift up on the air runners that connect to the front and back intake tubes removed to get at the plugs. The upper intake simply comes off after the four bolts on top, erg is removed and two other bolts(one on erg shield (back bolt not the bolt towards the front of the car. Leave the front bolt alone) and the other bolt on the base of the erg to the rear engine lift plate. It's hard to find this one. Once all bolts are removed, the upper intake will easily lift as you untangle the water hard lines to release the upper intake. This will allow you to access the PCV module and both hoses for inspection/cleaning/rebuilding (as in replacing the rubber reed valve inside the PCV module.

If you need more help, let me know and I'll try to take a few photos of which bolts to remove and which to leave alone.
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Old 04-08-2020, 07:21 AM   #255
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
The center upper intake can be taken off the engine to get to the PCV module. Be gentle with the throttle pieces they are delicate. The ERG base mount will come out after the ERG is removed and the hard line water lines are released ie. pulled up a bit to give enough room to remove the upper intake. There will be a couple more hoses connected underneath the passenger side of the upper intake, but you can be gentle and just fold it over and out of the way. the fuel limes can stay connected as they don't attach to the upper intake. One mistake I made was trying to lift up on the air runners that connect to the front and back intake tubes removed to get at the plugs. The upper intake simply comes off after the four bolts on top, erg is removed and two other bolts(one on erg shield (back bolt not the bolt towards the front of the car. Leave the front bolt alone) and the other bolt on the base of the erg to the rear engine lift plate. It's hard to find this one. Once all bolts are removed, the upper intake will easily lift as you untangle the water hard lines to release the upper intake. This will allow you to access the PCV module and both hoses for inspection/cleaning/rebuilding (as in replacing the rubber reed valve inside the PCV module.

If you need more help, let me know and I'll try to take a few photos of which bolts to remove and which to leave alone.
Rj,

without pictures I must say that I am lost. I can't quite get to the ERG bolts in my head without having gone there in real life.

If you have some pics that could help me get to the PCV module. By all means; some pics to show wouldn't be a bad thing at all!

I hope my pick is plentiful in parts!
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Old 04-08-2020, 07:31 AM   #256
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

EGR, not erg. Exhaust gas recirculation.
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Old 04-08-2020, 08:11 AM   #257
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Wrench Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
EGR, not erg. Exhaust gas recirculation.
EGR; excuse me. Will I be removing lots of fuel lines to get at this stuff? Since I don't have a good run and know how on what I am after right now. I am going to the yard with the mindset that

a) I won't find a car that hasn't been pieced out all the way

b) If I do find one; then hopefully I can take multiple trips and get the most out of it as possible today if I don't run into any problems getting bolts out, etc and try and salvage the hoses, the black rectangular thing that has the clogged hoses (if I can get the black metal piece off the hose connector on the engine).

c) If all the above from b) is in tact; then I will get to the EGR on mine and then go back to the yard and get the working parts that aren't full of oil sludge.

I hope this seems logical. I don't know how fast people piece out L300's at Pick N Pull's. This one was there since a little over a month. The last two I looked at to get the ECM were there for months, if not 6 months or so. I was lucky to get the ECM as it was just hanging there; everything else was gutted.

At this point; I believe firmly it's going to be a hit or miss. I am going to gather my bags and prepare a walk with my tools. Good morning to you all DIY'ers!
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Old 04-08-2020, 12:58 PM   #258
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
If I'm not mistaken, the snapshots from under the rear center intake manifold with two oil lines is the oil cooler assembly. The oil cooler is a miniature radiator immersed in engine coolant circulating in the engine coolant passages. The input and output oil lines should be from the engine oil pump. '03 L300s use hard lines from the oil pump externally fed to the oil cooler. The oil pressure switch is mounted on this fitting. Best thing to do is spraying the area down with Gunk degreaser. Once the engine is running, come back to check these lines for oil leaks. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I believe the oil pressure switch is at the front of the engine close to the crankshaft. The switch in the photo is the coolant temperature sender.
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Old 04-08-2020, 06:22 PM   #259
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

You may be right. My old service manuals show only the L200 oil pressure switch on the side of the engine (2.2L) when describing how to replace it on L300s. . These GM manuals have misprints in a few places. As setup, a separate section deals with the 4 cyl engine and a separate section for the 3.0L V6 engine so within the 3.0L engine chapter, I should see a drawing for my oil pressure switch. Not. My guess is since these manuals are mainly aimed at dealer techs with GM online support, they get service bulletins for changes in procedures including updated drawings with corrections. I'm not a Saturn tech and never worked for Saturn so I'm left to figure out 'what's wrong with this picture or decryption'...... I haven't looked airline my engine for the oil pressure switch yet as its working.
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Old 04-08-2020, 07:04 PM   #260
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Wrench Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

Update from the Yunkyard:

Part-1: Sizing up the 2002 L300 for replacement parts.
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