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Old 09-06-2013, 05:50 AM   #1
spacetrace33
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Default ideas welcome

Started to get the 98 sl2 ready for the weekend and notice something new. When the throttle is initially pressed there is hesitation which will go away when throttle is pressed more. Idle is fine. Some things I done within past year include new tps new etcs. Fuel filter regulator and pump. Along with plugs wires and junkyard egr valve and solenoid. I plugged up one of vacuum lines coming off egr valve a while ago so I do have trouble code for it. At the time the car ran better without it hooked up. Taking ideas as to what could cause the throttle hesitation. Also I have heard that the tps can develop a bad spot and otherwise work fine. Can anybody verify that and also if it would not generate a trouble code?

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Old 09-06-2013, 09:20 AM   #2
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Default Re: ideas welcome

The EGR valve is electric; no vacuum lines.

What brand of fuel filter/regulator did you install?

The kind of TPS malfunction you describe indeed would not throw a code, as long as the bad spot still reports a value within normal operating range. The PCM wouldn't have any way of knowing the difference between the bad spot and simply the driver not moving the pedal.

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Old 09-06-2013, 09:47 AM   #3
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Default Re: ideas welcome

I love the response!

Just to clarify, the car itself is 98, the motor though, is older, it does have the mushroom egr. I really don't remember what brand of fuel filter/regulator was installed. Probably whatever the cheapest was, at the time. I would think if that is the problem, then it would show when you really press on the gas. This case, it's just when the gas is initially pressed, and then it comes out of it, until you come to a stop and start over. I was thinking about trying a different tps and cleaning the throttle body. Is there anything else that could cause this?

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Old 09-06-2013, 10:13 AM   #4
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Wrench Re: ideas welcome

TPS would be the prime suspect for me. But you might look for vacuum leaks too. They can cause that sort of problem.

What brand of TPS did you put on? Some won't last six months. Wells for example are the worst. I had one that lasted less than a month. I am running Niehoff now and it has held up several years.

There are small plastic lines from the throttle body that feed things like the fuel pressure regulator and evap control canister purge valve. These get hard with heat and age and love to fracture. Check them for any leaks.

Try spraying carb cleaner on various things (gasket mating surfaces, the plastic hoses, and so forth) with the engine running to see if anything changes. There are "leak detector" sprays too, I think Lucas makes one. I just use carb cleaner myself. All you are looking for is a change, faster idle, slower idle, rougher or smoother idle, etc.

There is another outside possibility. Remove the MAP sensor from the manifold and see if the passageway that connects it into the intake manifold cavity is plugged. That happened on my car a while back before I overhauled the motor. It was completely plugged with black goo. Once I cleaned it out the car ran better.

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Old 09-06-2013, 10:24 AM   #5
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Default Re: ideas welcome

Cleaned the throttle body and IAC per the Richpin video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pc5qCuQLmFE

Running in the proper temperature range?

-LR

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Old 09-06-2013, 11:40 AM   #6
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Default Re: ideas welcome

"Mongrel" configurations such as engines from different generations should always be made known in the opening post. Otherwise responders will be sent on wild goose chases.

What PCM is in the car? What fuel system is in the car?

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Old 09-06-2013, 06:54 PM   #7
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Default Re: ideas welcome

You may want to verify that your #1 and #4 wires are on the ignition coil correctly.

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Old 09-06-2013, 11:44 PM   #8
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Happy Re: ideas welcome

That would probably cause a code to be set. I know when I accidentally swapped the wires once it threw a code almost immediately. I don't recall what number it was. Ran like garbage too.

I think it was because the "cam sensor" (the phantom one) which triggers off the coil pulse magnitudes could not figure out which stroke was the compression stroke.

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Old 09-07-2013, 12:20 AM   #9
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Default Re: ideas welcome

Quote:
Originally Posted by spacetrace33 View Post
Taking ideas as to what could cause the throttle hesitation.
How are your mounts?

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Old 09-07-2013, 10:20 AM   #10
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Default Re: ideas welcome

I would firstly like to thank DIYguy for all the "outside the box" ideas.

And for all of you that don't know, this is a dirt track car, therefore, is put together, just for the sake of things working....doesn't mean that it's right.

The plugs and wires are good.

I have NO idea what kind of computer is in it.....I'm guessing one from an automatic b/c there's no rev limiter, other than that, no need to find out, YET....

I'm not going to talk about the fuel system right now for the simple fact that I do not want to confuse anybody because it's two systems, made into one. Leave it at that please!

I don't recall brand of TPS because most of parts, I go as cheap as possible if I know there's a good chance of it breaking later on. Example, motor being pushed into fire wall, crushing the TPS.

All motor mounts are new, and also added 2 solid mounts. Learned the hard way that the motor doesn't like to stay in one place when you're going fast in a corner. I can actually see where the water pump bolts were scraping against the frame because of all the movement, and that was with stock mounts only. It was actually moving so much it would break the lower trans mount and then wacked off the axle. Nightmares, I tell ya.


I am confident that TPS is culprit on this one, provided that there is a lil chunk of plastic missing from the back of it, still trying to figure out how that happened this time. And also the problem only occurs when throttle is pushed in at a certain point, every time. So, I think I'm going to change that out and give the throttle body a good cleansing, and go from there.

Thanks all for ideas!

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Old 09-07-2013, 12:23 PM   #11
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Default Re: ideas welcome

You need to find out now what PCM is in the car. You also need to know from what year car the donor engine came. At the very least, a gen-2 car with a gen-2 PCM will only properly operate an electric EGR, and a '93-'94 PCM that would allow vacuum to operate the EGR would not properly operate a '96-'97 or '98-'99 fuel system. To add to the mix, if the engine is from a '91 or '92, you're going to have further problems because the CPS reluctor on the crankshaft is different, and your ignition timing will be off.

These tinkertoy projects can be made to work, but just because one piece "fits" into another, that doesn't mean they'll work together. Knowing from what year/model each part came is the only way to make it work.

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Old 09-12-2013, 12:26 AM   #12
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Default Re: ideas welcome

madpogue, i highly agree with you as far as finding out what year everything is, it's a working project, let me tell ya. I have a feeling when it comes time to do a rebuild, it's gonna be a pain in the butt.

Anyhow, replaced the TPS, 94, and cleaned out the throttle body, and OMG, it was really dirty. Runs like a champ now, thank you guys.

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