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Old 06-29-2004, 08:01 PM   #21
auxmike
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Well Luke at least we now know that changing the auto mount is DIFFERENT from changing the manual mount!
I noticed this on my brothers '95 SL2,that auto trans is quite a beast!
And yes,I did cover my hide by mentioning this was MANUAL TRANS ONLY folks!
Also,state I don't recommend trying this yourself,just for that reason,it's a hard procedure if you're inexperienced,unsure,or skittish........

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Old 06-30-2004, 03:07 PM   #22
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Luke, maybe you can get a Dremel-type tool in there or a rotary cutter of some sort to cut off the stubborn bit of bolt that won't come out on its own.

Then you could finnagle the new mount in somehow. Don't know if this would work for you though.

...
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Old 06-30-2004, 04:55 PM   #23
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Thanks, but I've already finished the job, but it certainly was a challenge. In the future, your suggestion will be on my mind.

...
> 95 SL 2 = 653,369 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 5/20/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable < The car was retired

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Old 07-02-2004, 09:10 AM   #24
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Many Thanks to auxmike for the procedure.....excellent. I need to replace mine at some point on my '01 SC2 5 spd as I have windo welded my two dogbones and replaced the upper torque-axis mount. A question please...auxmike what was the net change in driving performance with your 5 speed car after changing the trans mount? These cars are known for driveline rock in lower gears when getting on and off the throttle with the clutch out. Does a fresh mount reduce this tendency? Was curious if there was a noticable difference after changing the mount as the two dogbones allow quite a bit of driveline rotation in profile and presume a fresh solid mounting of the trans to the sub frame will quiet this down a bit. Please let us know.
Thanks,
George

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Old 07-02-2004, 07:43 PM   #25
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gm7:
I guess I've been fixated on how it feels at idle more than looking for a jerking motion while driving,I confess.
I can still chirp 'em from 1st to 2nd in my basicly stock moded car.
I'd say judging by how much more squished the old mount was vs. the nice "tall" new mount,it was time for a fresh unit anyways.
I can't say if I notice any jerking while driving because I guess I don't!
Sorry if this seems a pretty weak answer to a great question.
Hey,for under $40,it's about an hour's worth of work that can be considered fun if you like to tinker like I do.
Since you have an '01,you may still be in decent shape with the original mount.
I had done this on a '97 with 71k on the clock myself.
DON'T USE THE WOOD FENCEPOST METHOD!
Take your time,jacking up and down SLOWLY as you watch.The axle boot on the tranny bends A LOT when you jack it up,be careful...

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Old 07-02-2004, 08:59 PM   #26
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Thanks for your response Mike. As you say I may still have some life in that mounton my '01 car. Your procedure is terrific and is a big help to all that will take this on including me. Thanks for your contribution to the board.
Best Regards,
George

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Old 09-11-2004, 04:45 PM   #27
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I didn't see differences for the AUTOMATIC crowd, so since I just tackled that job, heres what I found:
-You will need to remove the battery and battery tray to lift the tranny high enough
-You may not need to remove a transmission strut bolt, but it may help.
-You will need two jacks, i will get to this in a sec
-Unbolt the engine mount from the bracket on the rail, jack up the engine under the oil pan for starters
-Now get your other jack and place that under the tranny, keep an eye on how that is lifting, you may need to pull the engine toward the passenger side to get enough clearance
-With that done, replace the mounts and start working in reverse

...
Its all about the coffee...

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Old 09-12-2004, 11:26 AM   #28
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Super outline

...
> 95 SL 2 = 653,369 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 5/20/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable < The car was retired

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Old 09-13-2004, 08:46 PM   #29
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im still tryin to figure out why u have an 8' long post in the back of ur car??where u fit that? i just cant see sumone standin there swingin a piece of wood that big..ha

...
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http://www.cardomain.com/id/the_skin_eater ---Chek it out.

All my time goes to the Talon...My girlfriend is jealous. But my car is jealous that I sleep with her...

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Old 10-26-2004, 07:06 PM   #30
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A jack under your oil pan?... Isn't that kind of like standing on a pop can?

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Old 10-26-2004, 07:16 PM   #31
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You must put a piece of wood between the oil pan and jack,so you don't dent the pan.

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Old 10-27-2004, 09:28 AM   #32
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I wound up removing this mount as part of the procedure to tighten the input and output shaft nuts.

To answer the brake master cylinder question: The FSM noted that if you have ABS, you must disconnect the master cylinder from the booster and lift it a bit.

Also, you want to have the floor jack under the tranny, as Mike shows, not under the (engine) oil pan.

I managed to get the mount back in place without major problems. First, I tried dropping the mount into place, and loosely installing the 15 mm nut from the bottom. Then I lowered the tranny and looked to install the 10 mm bolts. The alignment was off by a few mm, and I've learned not to try installing bolts into aluminum when the alignment is less than perfect.

So, off came the 15 mm nut and up went the tranny. I then installed the mount loosely to the tranny with the 10 mm bolts, and lowered the tranny while guiding the mount stud into the cradle rail. I did a little bit of push/pull, but don't recall needing any pry bar. Before the mount got down to seating on the rail, I torqued the two 10 mm bolts, then let it bottom, then tightened the 15 mm nut.

Perhaps my angles were a little different, becuse my cradle was dropped about as far as can be with the two left side bolts loosened (but not removed). In any case, the moral of the story is make sure the holes line up before installing the two 10 mm bolts, don't use them to force alignment. Aluminum is not very forgiving!

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Old 10-27-2004, 06:26 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by TedL


Also, you want to have the floor jack under the tranny, as Mike shows, not under the (engine) oil pan.
[/B]
This is correct!I was thinking of the upper engine mount install where you would need jack up the oil pan.Not the case with the lower mount.
.You don't want to jack up the oil pan to change that lower mount,won't work.
Don't do that!

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Old 11-19-2004, 07:11 AM   #34
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Default Re: HOW TO:Change lower tranny transmission mount

Looks like I will be doing this repair in the very near future, I had the front of the car up on the stands today trying to pinpoint the source of a noise the sucker makes when making left turns and accelerating (almost sounds like rubbing but high pitched and goes away once I attain a certain speed). Anyhow while I was at it I removed the splash shields to check the tranny mounts since I had the tire off anyway why not, still tryin to stamp out all the vibrations in the car (I'm still not convinced it's a normal Saturn trait but thats just me). I noticed the lower tranny mount is just about shot *ding* *ding* I believe we have now discovered the vibration source and it would also explain why only the left side of the dash rattles. Dog Bone mounts appear to be fine will probably replace the upper motor mount as well couldn't hurt right..

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Old 11-19-2004, 10:23 AM   #35
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Default Re: HOW TO:Change lower tranny transmission mount

SL1Joe

We'd appreciate your follow-up on your efforts; However, would you move them, and initiate the results, to the Tech Tack forum. As you know, this, How-To forum, is used to submit the actual "procedures" for work efforts.

Just a thought....

...
> 95 SL 2 = 653,369 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 5/20/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable < The car was retired

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Old 11-21-2004, 01:08 AM   #36
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Default Re: HOW TO:Change lower tranny transmission mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
SL1Joe

We'd appreciate your follow-up on your efforts; However, would you move them, and initiate the results, to the Tech Tack forum. As you know, this, How-To forum, is used to submit the actual "procedures" for work efforts.

Just a thought....
I intend to Luke, was mearly posting a reply.

If however I do discover another way to do it I'll post those thoughts here to share them with everyone else.

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Old 11-21-2004, 11:43 AM   #37
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Default Re: HOW TO:Change lower tranny transmission mount

Quote:
FM Joe
If however I do discover another way to do it I'll post those thoughts here to share them with everyone else.
, Please

...
> 95 SL 2 = 653,369 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 5/20/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable < The car was retired

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Old 12-14-2004, 02:01 AM   #38
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Default Re: HOW TO:Change lower tranny transmission mount

I am SO glad I found this forum! I am not tech savvy and really appreciate the pics. I've known for a couple of weeks that the tranny mount needed replacing and was skeptical about trying it myself, but couldn't see forking out the cash to have it done.

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Old 08-08-2005, 06:45 PM   #39
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Default Re: Changing Lower Tranny Transmission Mount

Just did this procedure over the weekend and have a little more info to share that others might find useful.

First of all, there were no clearance issues at all in the engine compartment. This was on an SL2 with manual tranny and ABS, and I did not have to remove anything for clearance.

Secondly, I pretty much followed the procedure as detailed, although I loosened (but did not remove) the upper bolts prior to lifting the transmission with the jack.

Third, I also saw how the new mount did not quite line up properly, but it really was no problem. When the old mount was raised high enough to clear the cradle, it popped out (towards the brake assembly) and back (towards the firewall). I put the new mount in the cradle, put the cradle nut on just enough to keep it from falling out, then my dad gently tilted the new mount towards the brake assembly as I slowly lowered the transmission. As it lowered, the upper bolt holes lined back up, and my dad could start both bolts by hand. I then finished lowering the transmission and tightened both the upper bolts and the cradle nut. No 2x4 necessary!

Thanks to the original poster and everyone else who contributed. This procedure was fairly easy to do because of the info shared here.

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