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Old 12-03-2019, 01:37 PM   #41
fdryer
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

There's more misinformation on the internet than anyone can imagine. America's political system has been corrupted with foreign interference to the point of seriously affecting the last presidential elections and a warning of how disinformation is spread. In the old days this was called propaganda. Same idea, different words. A democracy allows people to seek out the truth. The free press isn't controlled by government. Try finding truth in Russia with state controlled newspapers. China is the same. Hong Kong is an island onto itself straining to remain free of communist controls to distort the truth. Lies and disinformation from years ago were spread from so called 'rag' papers like the infamous National Enquirer. The N/E was always popular in supermarkets as people waited in lines, grabbed this rag and read every lie possible to create more misinformation for gossip. Searching for information using Google, Bing or any other search engine comes with information that can be useful or useless. It's up to each person to separate truth from fiction.

I've stated it many times here in these forums - there's a wealth of free information within these forums but it requires serious searching. 02 LW300 reprinting directly from service manuals is providing accurate info from GM. What more do you need to be convinced to refrain from searching the web for info you cannot verify as applicable to your specific problem? Info I provide comes from service manuals too and reprinted many times here.

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Old 12-03-2019, 01:49 PM   #42
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

Okay like I said from the manual itís a little confusing but weíll figure it out..now Iím wondering I wonder if I needed to replace the ecm after all? 🤔 were going to do the relearn now please cross your fingers!

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Old 12-03-2019, 02:24 PM   #43
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

The reasoning for me to research is because it is not very clear in the manual Andy showed me. How long do you do keep the key in ON position with engine off. Even my boyfriend said the manual isnít clear it doesnít specify. If itís crystal clear then thatís a different story. I appreciate all the feedback and Iím not sure as to why you donít think we both have been researching on these forums because we have extensively and some info has helped some
Has not.

Update for today: we tried to do the throttle body reset from
The manual it didnít work the reduced power is still on. We did not attempt to drive the car. It was idling rough. Now we disconnected the battery do we have to do the pass lock again or since we did it once with the new ecm it doesnít need to be padlocked?

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Old 12-03-2019, 05:07 PM   #44
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

Update: disconnected battery now this plug into the throttle body was loose, firstly was is that piece called? Now that we plugged it firmly back into throttle body with the new ecm the car doesnít have reduced power mode on and no service light with wrench. Ran the code reader and the only code came up is u2105.

Now the car cranks but doesnít start..question do we have to do the pass lock again? Reason why Iím asking is because my boyfriend put the old ecm with battery disconnected he wanted to see what it would
Do with the old ecm the car ran but really rough. He then disconnected the battery again and put the new ecm back in reattached battery and then we found out the cord was loose...made sure that cord was on tight onto the throttle body started the car and it wants to start but doesnít. So again since we disconnected battery and also swapped ecm do we need to do the pass lock again even though the security light isnít on? Is this why the car isnít starting? Iím asking because Iím curious about this...
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Old 12-03-2019, 08:30 PM   #45
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) module, part of the electronic drive by wire system. The other two parts are the electronic pedal and ecm. If this electrical connector was inadvertently left loosely connected/disconnected, this may be one of the reasons for chasing problems. Outlined in red is the tac module. The long round object is the dc motor, similar to a windshield wiper motor. The motor gets commands from the ecm to move the throttle plate open/closed thru gearing. The pedal sends signals to the ecm. Drive by wire. Perform another throttle calibration but before doing this.....

1-Is security flashing, the car with a large padlock symbol?

Yes? Perform a relearn procedure. When its flashing, the ecm will not allow injectors to operate. You can use the starter all day until the battery dies or starter burns out but the engine will never run. When switching from one ecm to another, each time the ecm is replaced a new relearn procedure is needed. This is not plug n' play. Either perform another 30 minute relearn procedure or continue getting lost in guessing what to do next. Security must be OFF during starting.

No? Perform a throttle calibration. Simply turn ON ignition, engine not started, pedal not touched and wait. In 30 seconds the ecm will enter a calibration mode to exercise the throttle motor. After one minute when calibration is done, turn off ignition.

2-When all is said and done, you should be able to see the throttle plate open and close with ignition ON. Do this to verify electrical connections are correct, security is relearned and pedal/ecm/throttle are communicating withe each other. If you can see throttle moving when pressing the pedal, reconnect the air filter tubing so the maf sensor can measure air flow. Try starting again.
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Old 12-03-2019, 08:46 PM   #46
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

No security light is flashing ...so thatís why my question was even though there is no security light flashing and he swapped different Ecms in and out of the car do we still need to do a pass lock ? Or once was enough with the new ecm (which is in the car right now)?

We can do the second solution if the answer to above is no thereís no need for another pass lock. My boyfriend feels thereís no need for another pass lock if no light is flashing but Iím thinking it does bc he switched old and new ecms today trying to start with the car with old pcm and trying to start the car with new pcm. And as the reason to it not starting.

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Old 12-03-2019, 10:03 PM   #47
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

I'm not in your position to tell you what to do and your situation is a little unusual with so many things being discovered to change descriptions of mismatched symptoms. From my viewpoint, indicators are everything witout being there.

Does security cycle on at ignition on time then turn off? The security indicator must cycle on to at least tell you/me that Passlock is operating. If you see the security indicator cycle on then off during starting, proceed to throttle calibration. After calibration, verify throttle moves with pedal movement.

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Old 12-03-2019, 10:08 PM   #48
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

I know itís definitely an odd situation. Which I hope will be done with soon. The indicator flashes with all other signals on dashboard when key is turned on ON position then all of them go off..so if thatís the case we will try and do the calibration again we did do it today but that didnít seem to work..will try in the am.

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Old 12-04-2019, 01:48 AM   #49
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

I'm going on limited knowledge with the following thoughts and welcome any corrections.

In my mind, as far as EFI systems go and GMs system, if throttle calibration doesn't result in a perfect master/slave synch between pedal and throttle, nothing else matters because pedal movement is supposed to be followed exactly by throttle movement. The EFI system takes care of everything. All we can do is press the pedal and assume throttle responds to pedal movement with the ecm making all the decisions to make power and transmit it to the xmission that translates engine/xmission coordination into front wheel drive.

If throttle calibration doesn't result in throttle moving in coordination with pedal, stop there. Something is wrong with the EFI system; wiring, ecm, sensors, etc. The engine cannot run correctly if throttle can't follow pedal commands.

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Old 12-04-2019, 10:57 AM   #50
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

This procedure as with some emission monitors will not run if the conditions are not met. The evap monitor will not run at low temps either. Please make sure your car sees 41 degrees before attempting to run this. This is both coolant temp and intake air temp.
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Old 12-05-2019, 07:27 PM   #51
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

Okay well my boyfriend started the car today after a good charge. It started right up and was idling high but stood on for about 5 minutes until my boyfriend shut it off. We did the throttle body relearn and it started up again for another 8 mins we were going to take it for a spin but it shut off by itself again. We smelled fuel from the car. So he tried to restart and it didnít start all the way again. He checked the fuse for the ecm it was fine. Checked the fuse for fuel
Pump itís fine as well. For some reason since we smelled fuel when he put the key in ON position we didnít hear the fuel pump kicking on that humming noise you hear from the back only from time to time. The reduced power is off and is throwing codes u2105 and p1780. I know that you should always hear your fuel pump kicking on when you put it on ON position. This leads me to believe that I have a bad fuel pump all along the relay kicks on. My boyfriend did the trick of hitting the fuel pump underneath the car with a rubber mallet and we put the key again on ON position and heard it kick on but no start...

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Old 12-05-2019, 10:41 PM   #52
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Default Re: Buzzing noise in throttle body

1- Every engine starting up cold will have a high idle and gradually or quickly come down to normal idle after a few minutes idling or driving. Using my car as an example, I can startup and let the engine idle in place. High idle is around 1200-1500 rpm and in a minute or so, lower from high idle but still above normal (650 rpm). If I let the engine run in place, the engine warming up will bring high idle down to normal in a few more minutes. I don't let the engine idle except in freezing temps with snow covering windows to use defrost to melt ice. I usually startup and drive without warming the engine. Driving at low to moderate speed is more than enough to get the engine to operating temperatures. Conservatively, a cold engine startup will take about 5-10 minutes to reach operating temperatures where high startup idle returns to normal idle (650 rpm).

2- When throttle relearn was performed, did you and your bf verify the throttle actually moves when pedal is moved? Please reply - if you don't answer questions then no one will know if this was successful or not and delays help.

3- Repeatedly cycling ignition to hear the fuel pump is guessing. Either borrow a fuel pressure gauge from Autozone, Advance Auto or other auto store allowing free loaners or continue guessing. The ecm knows not to cycle fuel pump by deliberately preventing pump running when cycling the ignition switch in quick succession just to hear the pump. If you insist on not borrowing a fuel pressure gauge to actually see pressures and still want to hear pump running then after the first cycle with the engine not starting, shut off ignition and wait 30 seconds before trying another start. If you want to hear the pump running, press a long screwdriver to the fuel tank with the handle pressed to one ear and listen when the driver turns on ignition. Do not start the engine. Just listen for the pump. It will run for 2-3 seconds then shut off. This is normal when the engine isn't started, a safety issue. No car needs to have its fuel pump running continuously if ignition is left on without starting up. When starting, using the starter, the ecm will turn on the pump.

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