How to bleed a sealed clutch hydraulic assembly

[00 SLow]

I just finished going through hell chasing clutch problems after blowing a hole in the side of my bellhousing. After seeing lots of useful info about clutch related issues in the forum, I thought posting the directions that came with my new hydro assembly would be a be a useful addition. It's clean, dry, and doesn't require disassembling the slave.

I found it easier to bleed with the whole thing installed, with the slave hanging off the trans.

--- Twist the slave cylinder off the transmission, and point it vertically, with the pushrod facing the ground. With the cap off the reservoir, SLOWLY depress pushrod into the cylinder about an inch while watching the reservoir for bubbles. Repeat process until air bubbles no longer appear, usually about 10 to 15 strokes. With the cap still off, slowly press the pushrod in far enough to reconnect the bands on the retaining strap, if not already broken. Reinstall slave and replace the cap. Using short quick strokes, press the clutch pedal 20 to 30 times or until pedal is firm. Under normal usage, small anounts of air remaining will purge itself from the system. ---

[MikeNW]

Yes, a tranny shop told me that. Even Porsches have this problem apparently.

You can also "wet" bleed it. There is a post here somewhere about it. Or just figure it out.

[fashions]

Originally Posted by 00 SLow

I just finished going through hell chasing clutch problems after blowing a hole in the side of my bellhousing. After seeing lots of useful info about clutch related issues in the forum, I thought posting the directions that came with my new hydro assembly would be a be a useful addition. It's clean, dry, and doesn't require disassembling the slave.

I found it easier to bleed with the whole thing installed, with the slave hanging off the trans.

--- Twist the slave cylinder off the transmission, and point it vertically, with the pushrod facing the ground. With the cap off the reservoir,

SLOWLY depress pushrod into the cylinder about an inch while watching the reservoir for bubbles.

Repeat process until air bubbles no longer appear, usually about 10 to 15 strokes. With the cap still off, slowly press the pushrod in far enough to reconnect the bands on the retaining strap, if not already broken. Reinstall slave and replace the cap. Using short quick strokes, press the clutch pedal 20 to 30 times or until pedal is firm. Under normal usage, small anounts of air remaining will purge itself from the system. ---

will the pushrod return on its own in this process?

[MikeNW]

The slave cylinder has a spring that tries to push out the slave rod.

That's why there is that plastic doohickus on new slave cylinders, to keep the rod in, otherwise, when you install the slave cylinder, you have to make sure the rod is seated correctly in the release fork. The rod won't fall out, because there is a rubber dust cap.

[fashions]

Thanks MikeNW.
I have a couple of extra hyd. systems from u-pull it. and will give it a try. sounds easy enough.

I spent a sat a last month trying each till i ended up with the same one i started with.

ps. I found a Luk clutch kit in Denver area for $170 - 1.9 '00-'02 which am leaning towards for my replacement.

[BarnOwl]

Originally Posted by fashions

ps. I found a Luk clutch kit in Denver area for $170 - 1.9 '00-'02 which am leaning towards for my replacement.

If that $170 is shipped, I'd go for it. You can get it shipped off of ebay for $180.

[mrclean92124]

Originally Posted by 00 SLow

I found it easier to bleed with the whole thing installed, with the slave hanging off the trans.

SLow you are the KING... I searched for 2 days on this forum. Yours is the DEFINATIVE post on how this should be done. I was all ready to remove master/slave from car and wet bleed it after disassembly... What a mess.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU...

[caveeagle]

--- Twist the slave cylinder off the transmission, and point it vertically, with the pushrod facing the ground. With the cap off the reservoir,

Where is the cap (and reservoir)? I thought these were sealed units that could not be bled? I also wonder why you can buy the slave parts by itself?? (if this is the case)

[madpogue]

The reservoir is on the master cylinder, on the firewall (see owner's manual). The assembly is pre-bled and sealed, but once installed, the level should be checked periodically. And yes, some folks sell the individual parts to unsuspecting buyers, but without a bleeder screw anywhere, bleeding becomes an exercise.

[madeinUSA]

Just wanted to say this works very, very well. Did this on my 92 which had never been done and now shifts better than it has in years.
I was having issues with shifting especially at lower speeds and fast/ power shifting was about nonexistent. Pedal was very low and my SL2 has a newer SPEC stage 2 clutch/ pressure plate which I did not think was the issue.
I had taken it completely off the car before I found this post...did it about the same way...just sucked the old (nasty, with unknown white particles) fluid out and added new fluid while the slave cylinder rod was pushed in. (DO NOT push the master cylinder rod) Did that several times until the fluid was clear.
Recommend it to anyone with a manual S-series. The fluid is hydroscopic (attracts moisture) and just does not work well over time.
I would say definitely do this before replacing the Clutch Slave/ Master Cylinder....only cost $3.50 for some brake fluid and mine works like new.