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Old 10-12-2018, 12:27 PM   #1
Coehawk
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1999 SW2
1995 SL1
Default Code 19

Hello,

Long time listener, very rare caller.

I have a 1995 SL1. Was running just fine, but recently check engine light came on and tach started fluttering/not-working.

Mechanic replaced ignition module, but check-light still on and tach still fluttering. Code he gets is "19" He thinks it's a wiring issue and he's not comfortable working on that and recommended a local auto electrical specialist.

Does this sound like a reasonable approach?


I love the car and want to keep it going for as long as humanly possible.

Thanks, I'll hang up and listen.

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Old 10-12-2018, 12:49 PM   #2
fdryer
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Code 19

Check out this link; http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...dtc_chart.html. Look up code 19 - 6x signal fault. It means the crank sensor is faulty. Above and behind the starter, mounted with one 10mm bolt.

Mechanics not experienced with EFI systems may be old school carburetor/distributor types, unable to transition to EFI systems with electronics.

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Old 10-12-2018, 02:46 PM   #3
Coehawk
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1999 SW2
1995 SL1
Default Re: Code 19

Thanks!

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Old 10-12-2018, 10:55 PM   #4
cgg17
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1995 SL2
1999 SL2
Default Re: Code 19

Just did a my crank sensor today on my 1995 aswell. I had no light, but it needed to be done. Very easy task, just take your time.

Study a picture of the backside of the engine. Jack up the front of the car and secure both sides with jack stands, and be sure to set your E-Brake and chock the rear wheels. Shake the car well to make sure it is sturdy before you crawl under. Once under, take a 10mm socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet, and feel for the bolt. Remove the bolt, then remove the wiring connector above it. The clip is the same style as the A/C clutch connector, so you can get an idea of how it comes off. The tap part points towards the engine, upwards, so it is easy to pop off. Once you have the bolt and connector out, rotate the crank sensor by pushing on the tab with your fingers. On my spare engine it spun nicely and came out with no issues. On the one I replaced today, I had to use a small dowel as a lever, I placed one end on the block ledge and the other end on the tab of the crank sensor. I gave slow steady pressure and it popped right out. Installation is the reverse of the removal. Personally, I do not know the torque spec, but it is a small bolt, so I just snugged it up with the 1/4" drive ratchet, and called it a day. You dont want to break that off, or you probably have to pull the engine to tap new threads.

...
1994 Sl2 5spd: 56,576 (Totaled 1/10/2018)
1995 Sl2 5spd Manual Swap: 150,062
1999 Sl2 4spd: 98,8xx

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