2002 SL1 rear wheel damage

[Oliviar]

Hello guys,

I'm thinking about purchasing a car from a buddy of mine for $400.
He has a 2002 SL1. He got hit in the passenger rear and said that it will still drive, but the wheel got pushed in on the top and is now crooked/sideways.

I'm supposed to get some pictures of it tomorrow which I will post, but I wanted to hear some input on everything that will probably need to be replaced. I don't mind spending a couple weeks 3-4 hours a day, gives me something to do!

I thought since it's in the rear, it would be a little more easier to replace the whole suspension back there than it would be in the front (lol). But not 100% on what else might be needed besides tire/rim, control arm, shock/strut, wheel bearing exc.

It's a really nice car with only about 130k, so I would hate to see this end up in a scrap yard. Would love to use this as a summer cruzin' car!

Thank you

[underthehood]

Probably just a bent strut. Unless really rusty these cars can take a pretty good whack with no real structural damages

[Medtactics]

At most $200 for 2 new stabilizer bars, 1 new trailing arm, 1 new strut (although you should replace both sides at the same time). The sway bar components should still be good.

Point is, new parts are pretty cheap, although a new rear wheel bearing is a good $100 straight from Japan.

[Highmile]

Worst case is the rear suspension is bent. The entire suspension just bolts in and is a easy swap if you need to

highmile
'95 SL1 624k and counting

[bumpdraft]

Fenton Auto Salvage has what you need.

Originally Posted by Oliviar

Hello guys,

I'm thinking about purchasing a car from a buddy of mine for $400.
He has a 2002 SL1. He got hit in the passenger rear and said that it will still drive, but the wheel got pushed in on the top and is now crooked/sideways.

I'm supposed to get some pictures of it tomorrow which I will post, but I wanted to hear some input on everything that will probably need to be replaced. I don't mind spending a couple weeks 3-4 hours a day, gives me something to do!

I thought since it's in the rear, it would be a little more easier to replace the whole suspension back there than it would be in the front (lol). But not 100% on what else might be needed besides tire/rim, control arm, shock/strut, wheel bearing exc.

It's a really nice car with only about 130k, so I would hate to see this end up in a scrap yard. Would love to use this as a summer cruzin' car!

Thank you

[Oliviar]

Update:
I just bought it First sl1, very excited!

Drove it home no problems, it does have a little more damage than I thought though.

Didn't have time to take the tire off to take a look, but the inside top part of tire is rubbing against the strut.

Car got pushed into another parked car on other side - so bumper, both rear quarter panels, and tail lights will need to be replaced.
Will post pictures when I take off the tire and see what the damage is! Hoping everything goes smooth

[bumpdraft]

I just scrapped a 2002 SL1 at Fenton Auto Salvage. SaturnININ and I looted it before scrapping it. When I removed the exhaust system, I un-bolted the rear cross-member. On the passenger side, I even applied anti-seize before re-tightening the bolts
So, there it is. Give them a call and have them remove it for you.
The history of the car is the engine was neglected and it ate a valve and then was driven a few hundred miles.
At one point, it was flung off the expressway and sheared_clean_off a "bridge may be icy" sign. I don't think it hurt the rear cross-member and the car was driven for 4 years after.
It could have new rear brakes too, though I am not sure.
SaturnININ looted the body panels and all lights for his own car.

[Saturninin]

Originally Posted by bumpdraft

I just scrapped a 2002 SL1 at Fenton Auto Salvage. SaturnININ and I looted it before scrapping it. When I removed the exhaust system, I un-bolted the rear cross-member. On the passenger side, I even applied anti-seize before re-tightening the bolts
So, there it is. Give them a call and have them remove it for you.
The history of the car is the engine was neglected and it ate a valve and then was driven a few hundred miles.
At one point, it was flung off the expressway and sheared_clean_off a "bridge may be icy" sign. I don't think it hurt the rear cross-member and the car was driven for 4 years after.
It could have new rear brakes too, though I am not sure.
SaturnININ looted the body panels and all lights for his own car.

Lol, I only have a few parts laying round... also for OP there's a bit of difference between the _1 & _2 rear sub-frames... if you have to pick up a new one IMO might as well get a _2 they are a bit beefier.. (unless there the easy access to one like at Fenton)

[bumpdraft]

Originally Posted by Saturninin

... also for OP there's a bit of difference between the _1 & _2 rear sub-frames... if you have to pick up a new one IMO might as well get a _2 they are a bit beefier.. (unless there the easy access to one like at Fenton)

Please define the term,"beefier" as it relates to _1 vs. _2 cross-members

[Saturninin]

Originally Posted by bumpdraft

Please define the term,"beefier" as it relates to _1 vs. _2 cross-members

S_1 does not contain a rear swaybar, while all S_2 do is my understanding.... this is going more into the performance but also if while you are doing it... grab the suspension from an early S_2 (with parking brake) and convert it over to all wheel disc brakes)
See link

[fetchitfido]

The frames are identical aside from the added sway bar mounts that don't beef up the frame any. If you want to add the rear sway bar you'll also need the end link mounts on both rear struts along with the bar & bushings with the rear frame. You probably won't notice a difference if you're one of those annoying people that pay strict adherence to the "recommended" corner speed signs