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#1 |
Master Member
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I’ve seen a lot of Jacking Up Hockey Pucks on Amazon after watching a YouTube mechanic say that he uses a hockey puck with a groove cut into it to give a steady cushion when jacking up cars at the manufacturer’s recommended jacking point. It supposedly/ideally avoids the weld seam from collapsing to one side From the weight which seems to be a true possibility. I am getting ready to cut a groove in my 1994 Rangers Stanley Cup commemorative Hockey Puck and drilling out some divets in the other side to sit nicely into the head of my floor jack. I also just bought a pretty substantial $12.00 rubber floor mat to sit under the jack and jack stands (after cutting into sections) to add some more stability and grip on the surface of my driveway. I have tried pieces of scrap wood only, but the splitting sounds becomes unnerving while jacking the car up. I think a combination of wood and the rubber mat will hopefully offer a nice secure solution. There are even custom rubber Jack Stand head pieces on Amazon but I will try another small chunk of my floor mat first. I’ve even considered trying pieces of carpet.
Any thoughts or experiences to share? Also: Is there a secure and safe center point on or near the rear axle for jacking up the entire rear of our S-Series Cars?
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• 1997 SW2 used 12/29/2011 with 124,200 -27 mpg • 2004 Ion3 new 11/2003 (totaled) 11/2011 -23 mpg • 1994 SL1 new traded • 1992 SL2 new traded for above * 1986 Yamaha ce50 Jog -100 mpg |
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#2 |
Senior Member
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For the front, What I normally do is jack up the car along the frame where the subframe bolts on to, leaving enough room to next to it to put the jack stand. The rear can be jacked up from the rear subframe. There's a bump in the middle that I always use.
I can't even really use my "recommended" jacking points in the front anymore due to it being so bent. The back seem to be fine though
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97 SL2, auto, 121K miles |
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#3 |
Super Member
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From the rear I either use the center of the rear subframe or where the trailing arm mounts. From the front I use where the cradle mounts. Pretty sure none of them are "factory authorized" but if they buckle under the weight of the car...it wasn't safe keeping the car anyway.
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#4 |
Senior Member
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Location: sw michigan
Posts: 1,251
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I have a straddle gantry I built - using S series rear wheel bearings and 4 spoke (93) aluminum rims.
I use it to lift Saturns by the roof - using a chain through the front windows. It's a bit hard on the finish. ![]() .... Then I load the stripped out carcass onto a trailer and take it up the street to the scrap metal dealer.. .... A stripped out 94 SC2 frame weighs 515 lbs and brought $33. Now you know.
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Currently owned 93 SC2 96 SC2 97 SL2 98 SL2 99 SC2 01 SC2 x 2 yellow 02 SC2 02 SL2 parts 2 94 SC2 parted out 2 96 SC2 98 SC2 - rusty frame minus engine. |
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#5 |
Master Member
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Location: North of North of Toronto, Northern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,810
1999 SL2
2001 SL1
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I've used the slotted hockey puck on the pinch welds and flip it over to lift the back by the center of the rear subframe. I find it kind of finicky to get it positioned on the pinch welds and upgraded to this magnetic version. It works well and I still use the hockey puck for the rear subframe which lifts both wheels off in one lift.
Universal Aluminum Grooved Magnetic Jack Pad
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1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019) 2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT 2011 Suburban LT Past Saturns 2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y) 1993 SW2 AT (10y) 2001 LW200 MT (3.5y) 1992 SL2 MT (5y) :canada: |
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#6 |
Member
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I bought a cheap Chinese version and cut a groove into the back to fit flat on my cheap-assed floor jack... it ended up splitting in two. An actual hockey puck would've done the trick, but Trottida's magnetic jack pad looks much better.
I've already ended up crushing most of the pinch welds on the front anyhow, but sliding a jack under the SL when you've already put H&R Sport Springs all around just makes it a wee bit more challenging. |
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#7 | |
Master Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North of North of Toronto, Northern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,810
1999 SL2
2001 SL1
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1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019) 2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT 2011 Suburban LT Past Saturns 2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y) 1993 SW2 AT (10y) 2001 LW200 MT (3.5y) 1992 SL2 MT (5y) :canada: |
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#8 | |
Member
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Location: Tracy, CA
Posts: 61
2001 SC2
2002 SC2
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2001 Saturn Silver SC2 Leather Interior with 297K and a newly acquired 2002 White Fully Loaded, With only 87K! My new DD!!! |
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#9 |
Master Member
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Here’s an interesting idea...
https://youtu.be/jp2DqnL3A1g
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• 1997 SW2 used 12/29/2011 with 124,200 -27 mpg • 2004 Ion3 new 11/2003 (totaled) 11/2011 -23 mpg • 1994 SL1 new traded • 1992 SL2 new traded for above * 1986 Yamaha ce50 Jog -100 mpg |
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