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Old 02-23-2020, 09:47 PM   #1
rsg3
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1999 SL
Default License plate screws

Which should I use? Add washers? Frames? Metal or plastic screws? I had to drill out the screws on my wife's Camry plates which was awful.

So after that, I put nickel anti-seize on every screw of the plates for all my cars... but now the screws holding it keep backing out.

Just not sure if I need different screws or different mounting. Totally stock '99 SL, 116k.

I've personally replaced the starter and water pump... so generally tech. capable, and am an engineer, just not sure what the wisdom is on this one. Thought they were generally universal?
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Old 02-23-2020, 11:00 PM   #2
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2001 SL1
Default Re: License plate screws

Backing out? Just remove the screw and add in a lockwasher under the screw head & retighten it.
OR switch to plastic nut inserts and plastic screws work well in all weather for a long time, and no rusting of course, inexpensive and don't require lubricant.
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Old 02-27-2020, 12:26 AM   #3
TomM96
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Default Re: License plate screws

I had to drill out license plate bolts once...

My preference that application, is steel screws into plastic receivers.

90% of steel/steel or steel/aluminum ... i seat in Locktite if want security;
OR i seat in RTV silicone when torque not essential: the silicone will not back out
and it will exclude moisture from the joint. It is perfect for wheel mounting studs/bolts, and particularly useful for trailer wheels, as it prevents water incursion to the threads.
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Old 03-06-2020, 06:28 AM   #4
macbox
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1995 SC2
1997 SC2
Default Re: License plate screws

On my 95 SC2, I used a Menards nylon machine screw, part number 201-7787, 1/4-20x1. These work perfectly and won’t rust. I think I also used a small dab of silicone grease on them.

A lot of the other fasteners I found were 6mm x 1.25 thread x 20mm and were the wrong size.
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Old 03-06-2020, 10:09 PM   #5
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1997 SL2
Default Re: License plate screws

I recently got some M6X1.0 bolts (I forget the length) to replace the old corroded looking ones. The two bottoms bolts are also M6x1.0, but just long enough to reach a nut on the other side to hold the frame and plate together. It helps a lot with the rattling when closing the trunk.
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