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Old 12-27-2019, 08:51 PM   #1
quickster
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2002 SL2
Default Air pump/Diverter Problem?

Upon warming the engine up before a coolant change, I opened the hood to find what I thought was smoke coming out of the air pump. I found that the pump was not running, so I pulled the hose off the diverter from the pump, and noticed hot exhaust coming out of the inlet to the diverter. Besides the air pump possibly being bad, could the diverter also be bad, being that exhaust is exiting clear through the diverter? Shouldn't the diverter be closed off?
Thanks for any help on this. I'm not sure how to trouble-shoot this.
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Old 12-28-2019, 04:20 PM   #2
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

You can try powering the diverter blower to battery to determine if its worn out. One thread may help; http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...iverter+system
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Old 12-28-2019, 08:42 PM   #3
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

Thank you fdryer. I think that thread will help. I will try and power up the blower from the battery.
Meantime, I looked in my Haynes manual to see exactly what the check valve,air pump solenoid valve,and the combination valve were,and there location, and it showed nothing..It just briefly described what the air pump system did..
If voltages seem good at blower and diverter, I guess I'll try and find somewhere to buy both of them. Thanks for everything so far.
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:17 PM   #4
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

It's only a guess on my part but a vehicle with well above 250k miles will have wear and tear on parts. It will be great if only the blower is worn out but anticipate other issues. Under normal everyday use, the air injection system runs for less than a few minutes to force air into the exhaust system to help the catalytic converter heat up to operating temperatures then shuts off. The air pump was needed for early emissions systems. Better O2 sensors eliminated the air injection system. As equipment ages, the air injection system suffers.

One problem popping up from time to time is the small steel tube from the exhaust manifold clogging up with exhaust products, carbon. This tube tends to collect carbon; as soon as the engine is started, the air pump needs time to spool up so the tube collects carbon. Once the blower reaches operating speed, the diverter valve opens as pressurized air is forced into the tube to feed air into the exhaust system to help the catcon heat up. Exhaust pressure will force exhaust into the tube, diverter valve and blower if things go wrong. If the blower, diverter valve, diverter solenoid or vacuum hose become faulty, the air injection system fails to move air into the exhaust system. The tube can clog up, diverter valve fail, vacuum solenoid fail, blower fail, etc.
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Old 12-28-2019, 10:12 PM   #5
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

I agree fdryer, i now have 284,000 miles on this car. Thanks for this info, it helps to understand how this system works. Don't know if it matters,but I've had the egr valve blocked off the past 3 years. I installed a brand new one, and when it didn't fix the rough engine performance, i just blocked it off, and the car has driven smoothe ever since.

I looked at rock auto, but don't see everything i may need. Any advice on where to get what i need?
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Old 12-28-2019, 10:44 PM   #6
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

The egr valve meters exhaust gases into the intake manifold during acceleration and cruise to lower combustion temperatures. Its closed at idle and wide open throttle. It doesn't affect the air injection system. EFI and emissions systems can be complicated if not familiar with the basics of engine fundamentals then adding EFI and emissions controls.

Parts are usually from rockauto, ebay (new or used) or locally. Googling can suggest more places.
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Old 12-29-2019, 12:12 AM   #7
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

Thanks fdryer. Now, just wondering if i should disconnect vacuum line like 6spd68 did, to stop exhaust from getting back to air pump until we get this figured out. If i do this,is there a chance of any other damage if it's left this way too long?
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Old 12-29-2019, 10:19 AM   #8
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

I think you have several choices to stop exhaust flow. The vacuum valve controls vacuum to the diverter valve. You can disconnect wiring to the vacuum solenoid. That should stop the vacuum valve from switching vacuum to operate the diverter valve. One vacuum hose should be connected to the intake manifold as a source of vacuum. You can disconnect this hose but it must be plugged to prevent a vacuum leak into the intake manifold.

With temporary mods, the diverter valve is working if it stays closed, preventing exhaust gases flowing to the blower during cold engine startups.
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Old 12-29-2019, 12:54 PM   #9
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

Makes sense. Pretty sure the air pump is bad, but good ways to determine if the diverter valve is good or bad. Still trying to locate an air pump. Thanks fdryer.
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Old 12-29-2019, 08:55 PM   #10
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

Did some testing today and here's what i found. After driving the car this morning, the car sat for 3 hours before i started. After starting the car, no voltage at air pump connector, 14.7 volts at vacuum solenoid connector. I left the car idling for 5 minutes, no voltage to air pump and 14.7 volts to vacuum solenoid the entire time. With the vacuum solenoid unplugged, and a vacuum line disconnected, still had exhaust coming from inlet to diverter valve. Ohmed air pump (5.1 ohms), and vacuum solenoid (43.1 ohms). I still need to power air pump from battery to see if it's really bad or not.
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Old 03-14-2020, 07:11 PM   #11
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

update:
air pump is definitely bad. Air pump is starting to melt from hot exhaust gases. Have not had any luck finding an air pump. A couple of ideas i've mulled over are: replace the diverter valve and leave unplugged, or install a blocking plate where the tube connects to the diverter valve, similar to what I did to the egr valve. Not sure if either of these ideas are good or not. Just looking for options in case i can't find an air pump. Anyone?
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Old 03-14-2020, 07:43 PM   #12
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

How can west are you? There are two G3 SL2s in Rockford LKQ.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot_20200314-184023.jpg (136.5 KB, 54 views)
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Old 03-14-2020, 09:31 PM   #13
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

I'm an hour west of rockford. The picture looks just like under my hood, although i can't quite see the air pump. Mine is a 2002 sl2, but was bought in october of 2001. Can i assume it's a gen3? Thanks for the pic. Hopefully they have a number i can call.
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Old 03-14-2020, 10:58 PM   #14
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

2000-2002 is Gen 3. The '99s are like gen 2.5.

Not sure they will be very helpful on the phone but you could try. If you go bring your boots as it is a total mud bog currently.
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Old 03-15-2020, 01:22 AM   #15
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

Thanks Waiex191. I will give them a try. Have you bought parts from them before? Are they pretty reasonable?
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Old 03-15-2020, 01:04 PM   #16
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

I've bought many parts there. You bring tools and pull off parts yourself. Costs $3 to get in, minimum age 16. Prices are listed here:
https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/loca...rd-250/prices/
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Old 03-29-2020, 12:50 AM   #17
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

Quickster-

Others have reported that Either the precats clog, OR the holes bored in the head are clogged, or both.

I have issues on my 2000DOHC, and I plan to remove the ExMan, and clean
it (channels feeding airflow in the manifold) and the holes in the head which
communicate with the channels in the ExMan.

The PCM energizes the smog/air pump, and it also turns on the solenoid valve, which, in turn, opens the diverter valve... the PCM sends signal to a Relay in UnderHoodJunctionBox to turn on the solenoid valve.

The use of two circuits is to avoid 'feedback'....
* *
maybe see:
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=266314

Last edited by TomM96; 03-29-2020 at 12:55 AM. Reason: fergat un
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:07 PM   #18
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

Update:
After a set-back, i finally made it to lkq and got the air pump (huge thanks to Waiex191) and bought the diverter valve and solenoid from rock auto.Thanks TomM96, and fdryer, hope you are still with me on this.
Installed the pump, diverter valve, and solenoid. Before I started car, I removed the pcm b fuse to reset the ses light. Pump still didn't run, not getting voltage at connector. No exhaust coming out of inlet to diverter, so I assume the diverter is ok now.
I did notice one thing this morning, the exhaust pipe is broke right after the catcon, and before the downstream o2 sensor. Probably no bearing on why i have no voltage at connector for pump, but not sure the effect it will have on emissions control. Just hope it can be patched.
The pump fuse is ok, and I switched the relay with another one like it in the fuse panel.
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:53 PM   #19
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

First step in the secondary air system is meeting coolant temperature conditions. Somewhere in these forums are specs (I think I posted them). Generally, when the engine's cold, this meets minimum temperature range to tell the pcm to turn power on to the air pump. The pcm, I think, should have 12v on either pin 85 or 86 (terminals to the relay coil). The pcm switches ground to the relay on terminal 85 or 86 to power the coil, closing contacts 30 and 87 to send 12v to the air pump. At ignition ON time, 12 should be on two relay terminals (85, 86, 30, 87). You can remove the relay and locate pinouts on the relay. Using relay pinouts, you can insert a short wire jumper across relay terminal sockets 30 and 87 - this sends 12v to power the air pump (ignition off or on). Checking relay voltage output to the pump can verify half the relay circuit. with a jumper across relay terminals 30 and 87, 12v should be on one of the air pump connector with the other terminal on this connector going to ground. The other half of the air pump circuit is the pcm powering the relay only when a cold engine exists and the engine is started. The air pump runs at engine startup no longer than 3 minutes, varying the time of pump running with coolant temps and O2 sensor signals.
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Old 04-12-2020, 09:38 PM   #20
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Default Re: Air pump/Diverter Problem?

Thanks fdryer.
I just went out and pulled the relay and found the pin out on the relay. It's raining hard right now, but as soon as i can, i will begin to troubleshoot. Thinking maybe installing the jumper to verify the pump will run, if it doesn't, maybe a ground problem? If it does run, check coil voltage with the ignition on. Maybe a bad coolant temperature sensor? Sound like plan?
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