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#81 | ||||
Master Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Blackfoot, ID
Posts: 6,483
1999 SC2
1999 SC1
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![]() Replaced my ECTS today - went very smoothly using these directions, and only about a soda capful of coolant came out (did the jacking up the driver's side, and removed & put back on the tank cap). Car seems to be running about the same, which is very well, fortunately. The engine temp still doesn't go more than a hair above 1/4, though. Will be considering replacing the thermostat next, unless gas milage improves enough to make me not bother with it.
![]() ... SaturnSeries.net owner
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#82 | ||||
Senior Member
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![]() Just curious.
I replaced my ECTS this past weekend. I noticed that the bag in the pictures shows a Saturn bag; mine was in a GM bag. Is this the correct sensor? Do multiple GM engines use the same sensor? I am concerned because even though the engine is much smoother and quieter, I did not notice a noticable improvement in MPG. At least, not according to my gas gauge. ... "Congratulations on your brand new 2007 Acura" - Tenisha, the On*Star rep that handled my call during the Aura's delivery
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#83 | ||||
New Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3
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![]() Thanks for this, bought part and socket from Kragen. Did whole job in 30 mins with minimal coolant loss. Also cleaned connector with Q-tip to get off gunk.
Comes on now at 3/4 temperature and pulls down quickly to below half. Thanks again, Wolfman !
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#84 | ||||
Member
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![]() a big thanks to wolfman and auxmike for the instructions... much much better than any chilton or haynes manual
everything went relatively smoothly too bad the whole job cost me $150... i went to get a 13 mm deep socket and ended up buying the a whole 100 piece mechanics set. anyone want to buy a slightly used authentic, genuine saturn ECTS?? ill start the bidding at $25. j/k the old resin one has a hairline crack...i feel a lot better now witht he new brass one ...Thanks again!!
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#85 | ||||
Advanced Member
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![]() Just thought I might add my two cents worth. The ECTS has a 1/8" NPT pipe thread. When you tighten the ECTS, unlike a bolt, it will tighten slowly. It is easy to overtighten and some on our site have stripped their sensor because of this.
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#86 | ||||
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16
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![]() Thanks for all the tips on this everyone. I changed my sensor in no time, and only 1 small drop of coolant came out! depressureized the coolant tank and jacked up driver side of car as suggested. worked great! made a huge difference in how the car runs!
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#87 | ||||
New Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 3
1994 SC2
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![]() I just changed the 2 sensors in my 94 SC2 (DOHC). Mine must be a weird one because it has 2 sensors, but both are TWO WIRE. I haven't noticed much improvement in the temperature reading / fan behavior. Could I have mixed up the sensors? The bottom one has a gray colored tip and is slightly longer. The top one has a ligher colored connector tip. Since these are both 2 wire, what should the colors of the wires be?
I should mention that this car has a new radiator, hoses, thermostat, and water pump, all replaced before I bought the car. The engine doesn't exhibit any tangible signs of real overheating, just the darned gauge. Fuel mileage is mediocre, around 28mpg. Any help appreciated!
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#88 | ||||
New Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1
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![]() I was lost and now am found. Changed the ECTS as per the Wolfman and the car runs great not bad for $21.02 for the sensor at the dealer, its brass thanks.
Bill "No one looks good with brown lipstick" Frank Zappa
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#89 | ||||
Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 66
2002 SC2
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![]() I had a feeling my old ECTS was blown...and I was correct...very correct. The tip was melted and cracked...and the connector pins were mangled! I got a new one from the dealership for about $18 plus tax.
I didnt come here to see how to do this...which was my first big mistake. I pull the old one out with the wrong deep well socket...it felt like it was contacting the nut properly...but when I began to turn the rachet more and more, I could hear something leaking...and leaking and leaking and leaking. The engine was not stone cold, but I had left it out in the cold evening for about 2 hours or so. Anyway, the first gen Saturn Haynes manual (from when we had our 'ol '94 SL2) said that all you have to do is undo the resevoir cap to release any pressure (obviously you wait till the motor is cool) and then undo the electrical connector and then unscrew the sensor. Nothing about coolant leaking...though I expected some...but I think a lot more than that came out. I had a rag under the sensor bung to contain any leakage and it was thoroughly soaked...plus there was a good puddle under the car. Anyway...I found that I couldnt retighten the old sensor...as it was jammed into the socket...so I do my best to contain more fluid and take the socket and get a hammer (the sensor was busted anyway) and got it out...then I quickly screwed in the new sensor by hand and then torqued it down with the proper socket. Probably not the right order of things...but I was panicking. Anyway...I checked the resevoir...and of course its empty. So I go inside and fill up a pitcher of distilled drinking water and begin filling it back up to the "full-cold" line. I make sure everything is back in place and take it out for a spin...and to be truthful...I raced someone...mainly because they were being a ******* by nearly kissing my arse for almost a mile. So when the guy in front of me got into a turn lane...I floored it to get away...and away I got...it was a second gen Neon...and by the lack of power...probably an ATX...which I dont knock, cause I had a first gen Neon ATX and loved it...but second gens are much much heavier. Anyway...the whole time the temp needle was just a hair over the 1/4 mark and never changed. I get home from my little test and do a quick check...noticed no leaks...nothing out of the ordinary...lock 'er up and go inside. I come out later to run an errand and drive for about 5 minutes and am welcomed with the low-coolant symbols flashing...I pull over immediately and pop the hood. Again...nothing out of the ordinary...I have an LED flashlight and see no leaks...hear no leaks (I heard the original leak well before I even found it)...nothing. So I get back home and let it cool off. Of course when it was cool enough, I checked the resevoir again...and it did have coolant in it...but not to where I filled it up. It was about halfway to maybe 3/4s filled (in relation to the fill line). Now I'm a dumbass when it comes to the cooling system...but I've always known you can add distilled water to the system. Did my little acceleration test with the Neon boil off some water? Did the system settle and it turned out that there still wasnt enough even though I filled it? I think its time for a flush and fill and an oil change anyway...I dont seem to have harmed the car just yet...but I know if I dont keep up with this, there could be a boom...and a second LL0 down the tubes (first died due to too high of oil consumption). Thats been my night...the fun just never ends with this car. ![]() ![]() ... Red 2002 Saturn SC2 Coupe
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#90 | ||||
New Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1
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![]() I must be missing something... I just spent the better part of an hour trying to figure out where the ECTS exactly is on my wife's 1993 SOHC SL.
1. I removed the air intake as per Wolfman. 2. located two sensors on the engine itself the slightly raised one had a single wire. The lower one had a two wires, one of which was yellow as I recall. 3. both sets of wires ran into a huge grouping of wires all tightly taped up. By the look of the new sensor my wife purchased from Canadian Tire, (single wire, brass fittings, only about 8 inches long) I fugure I MUST be looking in the wrong place. Everyone is talking about how to pinch it out of one area and just connect it. Do you actually need to remove all the electrical tape and bundled harnesses? Is the harness to replace this thing in the bundle of wires... that makes no sense. The best photo i could find is here. http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/...e/DSCN0551.jpg but as this is a SOHC, and a different year, this is not much help. If anyone can help me out on this i would appreciate it as I just sent my wife to the mechanic to get it done for 85.00 cdn. the time is 10:21am PST i have about 45 mins before committing to the mechanic. mac
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#91 | ||||
Master Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2000
Location: 12 miles north of Rockville, Maryland
Posts: 3,594
2004 VUE 2.2L
2007 ION-3 Sedan
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![]() The EGR valve in macaroo's picture of his 1993 SOHC SL doesn't look right. I thought the S-Series didn't start using the linear EGR valve until 1994 for some parts of the US (such as California) and 1995 for the rest of the US and Canada. What do you all think...?
![]() Here is his picture: ![]() ... As of Feb 2018 ∙ 2004 VUE 122K ∙ 2007 ION3 110K ... Past ∙ 1993 SL2 212K ∙ 1993 SC2 140K ∙ 1996 SC2 157K ∙ 1996 SC2 126K ∙ 2001 SC2, 145K ∙ 2002 L200 20K ∙ 2002 SL1 129K ...
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#92 | |||||
New Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 7
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![]() I have a 96 SL2. Do I need to disable the air bags before replacing the ECTS?
Quote:
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#93 | ||||
Member
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![]() You should not need to disconnect anything extra if you disconnect and remove your car battery. Removing the car battery makes it easier to access the engine coolant temperature sensor as well. I use a socket wrench with an extension to reach the bolt that holds down the battery closest to the engine.
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#94 | ||||
Junior Member
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![]() Hi all,
This is my first time posting here and am looking for help with my father's '98 SL1. Immediately after we start the car the temp guage goes to the halfway mark. The car sometimes sputters and dies, but will usually restart after a short wait. I picked up an Actron OBDII code reader when they were on clearance at Kragen Auto Parts for $19. Great deal. The only code it shows is P0117. I replaced the ECTS and the thermostat and that hasn't solved the problem. Is there anything else I can check related to code P0117 that could be causing the problem? A few things to note: I did not (yet) replace the pigtail connector for the ECTS. We mistakenly did not disconnect the battery terminal before doing the procedure. How important is this, and would it help to do it now? Also, when replacing the ECTS, I learned that my father had been using only water and no coolant in the system. He did this because he said it was using water too quickly (not leaking) and didn't want to keep loosing costly fluid. Where could the water be going, and could this lack of coolant in the system be affecting the sensor and possibly triggering the P0117 code? I appreciate all the help anyone could give. Thanks in advance, Ken
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