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Old 10-03-2012, 10:34 AM   #1
TrentinoAndre
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Default Valve body and input shaft nut

I'm having the dreaded reverse slam and the problem with the slipping/jerking forward gears. After reading through these forums I think I need a new valve body and I need to tighten the input shaft nut.

Where should I try to find/buy one that is trustworthy? The site (carsaturnstore) sells a transmission repair kit (can't post url since this is my first post) and it makes it sound like I should be wary buying it any other place, but I wasn't sure why. I see them on ebay for a broad range of prices and was just worried about being ripped off.

What do you all think?

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Old 10-03-2012, 01:52 PM   #2
gruelens
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

I had a very positive experience with ebay seller "dink2954". A couple of months ago I purchased a valve body from him on ebay. Quick shipping, fair price, money back garantee, and he bought my old valve body. In addition, I had two phone conversations with Ken, ( dink2954). He gave me a lot of his time and good info. I would certainly not hesitate to recommend dink2954 on ebay. All the best to you.
George
'99 SL2
(disclaimer: no affiliation, just happy with a good old fashion fair deal)

======================

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrentinoAndre View Post
I'm having the dreaded reverse slam and the problem with the slipping/jerking forward gears. After reading through these forums I think I need a new valve body and I need to tighten the input shaft nut.

Where should I try to find/buy one that is trustworthy? The site (carsaturnstore) sells a transmission repair kit (can't post url since this is my first post) and it makes it sound like I should be wary buying it any other place, but I wasn't sure why. I see them on ebay for a broad range of prices and was just worried about being ripped off.

What do you all think?

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Old 10-03-2012, 05:01 PM   #3
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrentinoAndre View Post
I'm having the dreaded reverse slam and the problem with the slipping/jerking forward gears. After reading through these forums I think I need a new valve body and I need to tighten the input shaft nut.
You don't want to "tighten" your old nut . . .

“NOTICE: Use a new nut due to insufficient torque retention of old nut. Clean shaft threads with wire brush. When tightening and torquing this nut it must be done quickly. The thread locking material used on the new nut will cure in a short time resulting in incorrect torque."

And to do the job right, you should use a Clutch Holding Tool. You can get everything here . . .
http://www.saturnfans.com/classified...t/3767/cat/500

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Old 10-06-2012, 12:01 PM   #4
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

Do you really need a clutch holding tool? It wasn't mentioned in this thread.

"15. Use the 23mm socket and torque the input shaft nut to 111 lbs. You can immobilize the shaft by sticking a phillips screwdriver into one of the holes on the side of the 1st gear clutch pack and wedging it against the output shaft gear."

I like that guy sells it all as a kit for convenience, but maybe he can just take the clutch holding tool out if the using a screwdriver works...

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Old 10-06-2012, 12:15 PM   #5
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

Also, I have the part number for the input shaft nut (#21001680) and gasket (#21001684). Is there a part number for the output shaft nut?

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Old 10-06-2012, 07:56 PM   #6
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrentinoAndre View Post
Do you really need a clutch holding tool? It wasn't mentioned in this thread.
Some folks have had success jerry rigging something - and some folks have distorted the Clutch Pack Drum which leads to more problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrentinoAndre View Post
Is there a part number for the output shaft nut?
21001679

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Old 08-24-2014, 02:41 AM   #7
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

I had my transmission rebuilt about a year ago, then last week it did a reverse slam in the morning, 100 miles later it spilled its blood all over the freeway and now it needs another rebuild according to the shop. <metal in filter>
against my better judgement i'm gonna let the same shop rebuild it, but I wanted to give him the input and output shaft nuts with threadlock on it to prevent this from happening again. I just don't know where to buy them.. not on saturnparts.com or .net.... any ideas?

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Old 08-24-2014, 07:39 AM   #8
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

You say it spilled its blood on the freeway, was it the diff pin?

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Old 08-24-2014, 05:00 PM   #9
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitesl2much View Post
I just don't know where to buy them.. not on saturnparts.com or .net.... any ideas?
It was probably your Diff Pin that let loose if you spilled your ATF all of a sudden, not a Input Shaft Nut problem. But to answer your question, this $80 Kit has everything for the ISN job . . .
http://www.ebay.com/sch/impactproducts/m.html

Or http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/

End Cover Gasket – 21001684
Input shaft nut – 21001680
Output shaft nut – 21001679

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Old 08-24-2014, 05:21 PM   #10
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

Aside from the diff pin issue, I wouldn't trust a shop to rebuild a trans that couldn't get those nuts for you, along with the other parts/seals needed for the rebuild. There should be no need for you to chase down the nuts.

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Old 08-24-2014, 05:28 PM   #11
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

^+1 a very good point!

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Old 08-25-2014, 02:14 AM   #12
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
You say it spilled its blood on the freeway, was it the diff pin?
forgive my lack of knowledge, I'm enjoying wrenching on these things, but don't exactly know what i'm doing lol

I just pulled the engine and trans today, I can see the diff pin when I look through where the cv axles connect, it looks well... like it's there.
not sure what a launched dif. pin looks like.

The shop had told me the fluid came from the filter, and that I toasted it by driving for a few miles with no fluid. it seemed to me like the transmission was overheating. I pulled over to check the fluid level and it was fine, but I lost reverse, since it was still driving forward, I tried to make it home the last 20 miles, <terrible idea> but shortly thereafter I saw smoke in my rearview, and by the time I got to the shoulder no more forward and fluid all over my nice clean engine bay.

the codes I pulled after the blood spill were:
transmission torque converter lock up
1st gear incorrect ratio
2nd gear incorrect ratio
3rd gear incorrect ratio
4th gear incorrect ratio

thanks for the links, i'll check it out.
I paid 1000 for the rebuild the first time.
this time he said only 600 <think he realizes it should have lasted longer>
these are the prices for a bench rebuild. <I bring it in and install myself>

I agree the shop should know whats up with this transmission, but valvebody is all he seems to think is a problem with this transmission, contrary to what I've read on this great forum. I think the only real reason I want him to do it again is
to find out what happened, and because he's 3times cheaper than everyone else, perhaps i'm getting what I pay for.

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Old 08-25-2014, 07:42 AM   #13
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

This is a pretty confusing story.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitesl2much View Post
I just pulled the engine and trans today, I can see the diff pin when I look through where the cv axles connect, it looks well... like it's there.
not sure what a launched dif. pin looks like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gqhGC5vKDY

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitesl2much View Post
The shop had told me the fluid came from the filter, and that I toasted it by driving for a few miles with no fluid.
Was the Filter loose? Any obvious Gasket damage?

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitesl2much View Post
1st gear incorrect ratio
2nd gear incorrect ratio
3rd gear incorrect ratio
4th gear incorrect ratio
These Codes would be caused by low fluid as the Clutches would be slipping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitesl2much View Post
I agree the shop should know whats up with this transmission, but valvebody is all he seems to think is a problem with this transmission, contrary to what I've read on this great forum.
There is nothing that can go wrong with a VB to cause a massive fluid loss.
If the shop said the Filter leaked, why are they prescribing a VB fix?

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitesl2much View Post
perhaps i'm getting what I pay for.
You might be right about that.

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Old 12-09-2014, 12:27 PM   #14
whitesl2much
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

I agree, super confusing, moved my thread to reverse slam when hot.

fluid shot out of filter, not leaked. its all back together though, just afraid to
drive it 'til I can fix reverse slam when hot.

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Old 12-09-2014, 01:56 PM   #15
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Default Re: Valve body and input shaft nut

Just curious, did the low coolant come on solid at any point before it failed? Supposedly they stay on solid to signify the trans is overheating.

...
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