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Old 11-22-2015, 09:18 AM   #21
SL19302
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Default Re: Oil light/rough idle after rebuild

The Timing Cover and oil pump are bad due excessive clearances on the oil pump bores from metal shavings being pumped around, Replace the cover with a used on from a junkyard.
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2015 Subaru Forester Limited "Prinny"
2000 SW2 Still Running Strong- 160K Traded In
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CHECK YOUR OIL!
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Old 11-22-2015, 09:35 AM   #22
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Default Re: Oil light/rough idle after rebuild

What needs to be worried about along with the timing cover and oil pump is all the lower oil galleries. They are large bore low velocity ar4eas that hold junk. What will pass through the pump screen and pump will amaze you. The black chunk sounds like a small chunk of plastic chain guide. There are threaded plugs on those oil galleries and a shop vac and plastic tubing will allow cleaning in place.
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:00 PM   #23
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Default Re: Oil light/rough idle after rebuild

See I would have never thought of carbon buildup. It was precicely the same color and texture as the rough portion of the tensioner backing so probably was carbon.

The new used timing cover got a new oil pump, and i put the new plastic chain guides and tensioner in. Did an oil change, new filter, and it fired right up. Still a slight skip on idle but that could be due to a number of things (spark plugs, dirty air filter, etc) it doesnt buck and jolt around anymore like it did. No oil light, and no more chain slap! Seems to be a complete success. I'll change the filter in a few days to be sure maximum metal filtering, but im very happy with the results.

i drove the my girlfriends house and back (about 50 miles all together) and so far so good.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:20 AM   #24
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Default Re: Oil light/rough idle after rebuild

You are far from the first person who has swapped out the crank, rods and main bearing shells, and timing set after a lower end bearing failure. Historically the long term results have been mixed. There are hints of it on here but of the people who I happen to know who have done it they have resisted openly posting on what they have experienced as they were not interested in the faux expert advice from people with no clue or being quoted out of context.

The bottom line is it can be done successfully but you need a couple of short cycle oil samples to monitor metals and you need to know exactly what bearing material you put back into the engine. It takes near forever to flush out all the debris through filters and oil changes. Learn how to accurately calculate the weight of metal that is circulating in the oil and if possible the particle size.
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