VUE 3.5L Automatic Transmission Fluid Change

[Jldet5]

Originally Posted by David Harleyson

Based on the color of my fluid at 32000...yeah thats BS! At least for those of us who tow trailers in TX in the summer. Just too hot for too many months a year.

The reasons for NOT doing a Full change out...Amsoil (and all quality synthetics for that matter) is fully compatable with regular oil and fluids. That has been the case for about 30 years or so. Rumor has it that Honda DOES NOT recomend a power flush on this trans. I have been told two different stories by two different Honda dealers. One said power flushing was OK but they didn't have a machine. The other said they do multiple fill and drains to "get as close as they can". Posts here and on Honda boards seem to indicate that the trans. is kind of "the weakest link" so I decided NOT to pump out the old fluid by running the engine with the cooler line undone. Just a bit too risky on the Honda I decided. So...I got about 40% of the old fluid out on this change, I'll be at about 60% next time, close to 85% the time after that, and so forth. Is it a perfect method? No. But, at 100000 miles I will have changed the fluid 4 times and be running virtually all synthetic fluid.

Thanks! Makes sense. You should have some pretty clean fluid changing it that much. I hate to have to wait until 4 changes to get over 85% but I'm not looking forward to messing with cooler lines. What is the risk of using the cooler line method? Getting air in the system?

[David Harleyson]

Originally Posted by Jldet5

Thanks! Makes sense. You should have some pretty clean fluid changing it that much. I hate to have to wait until 4 changes to get over 85% but I'm not looking forward to messing with cooler lines. What is the risk of using the cooler line method? Getting air in the system?

Not so much air in the lines, but the thought (fear) of the pump sucking air and scoring itself and loosing pressure over time. I work for a hydraulic engineering co. and we see dammaged gear, vane, and gerotor pumps all the time. The dammage occurs because they suck air, or the fluid is allowed to get too hot. Not knowing exactly what kind of pump this auto has, I decided to play it safe.

[Jldet5]

Originally Posted by David Harleyson

Not so much air in the lines, but the thought (fear) of the pump sucking air and scoring itself and loosing pressure over time. I work for a hydraulic engineering co. and we see dammaged gear, vane, and gerotor pumps all the time. The dammage occurs because they suck air, or the fluid is allowed to get too hot. Not knowing exactly what kind of pump this auto has, I decided to play it safe.

I'm gonna go with the multi changes based on your recommendation. Just not worth the risk.

[Jldet5]

Changed the trans fluid on my 3.5 VUE but its not clear on the dip stick where the level should be. Manual says cross hatch area but that doesn't exist. There is a bend in the stick so I'm assuming as long as its below the bend thats where is belongs?

My current level is below the bend but above the two holes.

[Jldet5]

Originally Posted by Jldet5

Changed the trans fluid on my 3.5 VUE but its not clear on the dip stick where the level should be. Manual says cross hatch area but that doesn't exist. There is a bend in the stick so I'm assuming as long as its below the bend thats where is belongs?

My current level is below the bend but above the two holes.

Finally found an illustration elsewhere that it should between the two holes. Wondered about that but the holes are pretty darn close together.

[Jldet5]

I'm surprised at how much metal I got off the magnetic plug when I changed the oil. The fluid looked a bit dark so I'm glad I changed it. Starting to think I should have changed it earlier than 29,000.

I had a hard time getting the level check done right. One tip I got from the service manual I bought was to turn off the engine before the check. I thought that was odd as I always checked with the engine on but I did get a cleaner and easier read. The check has to be done immediately after turning off the engine or the fluid will rise after a while from the converter draining a bit.

Another problem I had was running the car too much...ideling raised the temp and fluid level. Not sure what the trick to that is except to check the level after a normal trip for a final check.

[wbloomfield]

I tried to use your suggestions on changing the trans. fluid. Its a good thing that before I went out and bought the supplies need, that I double checked to see if 3/8 inch fuel line hose would work on the dip stick.. It didn't. I tried even scoring the inside end of the hose, put oil on it too, so it would slip on. No luck!! I am going to get something a little bigger and try it...

[Jldet5]

Originally Posted by wbloomfield

I tried to use your suggestions on changing the trans. fluid. Its a good thing that before I went out and bought the supplies need, that I double checked to see if 3/8 inch fuel line hose would work on the dip stick.. It didn't. I tried even scoring the inside end of the hose, put oil on it too, so it would slip on. No luck!! I am going to get something a little bigger and try it...

I just removed the fill cap and used the basic walmart transmission fill tube with on/off twist. Worked great though I do admit it was slightly harder to get to.

[wbloomfield]

Thought I would update you on my ordeel... Yes, how come it always works out like this. Got the problem of getting the fuid in solved but now a new problem. I broke my ratchet trying to loosen the bolt. The bolt is torked on there pretty good. I bought a new ratchet and will try again tomorrow when the trans. is cold. I might also put on some penitrating oil too beforehand. Any other ideas?

[Jldet5]

Originally Posted by wbloomfield

Thought I would update you on my ordeel... Yes, how come it always works out like this. Got the problem of getting the fuid in solved but now a new problem. I broke my ratchet trying to loosen the bolt. The bolt is torked on there pretty good. I bought a new ratchet and will try again tomorrow when the trans. is cold. I might also put on some penitrating oil too beforehand. Any other ideas?

Hi,

Are you talking about the drain bolt or the fill cap? Penetrating oil will not help. It was on pretty tight though.

Are you sure your turning the right way? Counter clockwise...pushing towards the back of the car from the front.

Also, I used my leg with constant pressure while holding onto the underside of the car.

Getting loose while cold sounds like a good idea. I seem to recall that is how your suppose to do spark plugs.

[wbloomfield]

Well, after trying for an additional hour, I just gave up. I have owned Honda's before and they all have been difficult to loosen the first time. This one is the hardest of them all. I even tried using a pipe(long)over my ratchet handle to give me extra leverage with no success. I am now affraid that the threads of the bolt might be stripped if I try to be more forsefull with it. I will wait until I get the dealer to change(flush)it for me. I will just have to suck it up and pay the $150.00 price!! Anyways, thanks for the suggestions.....

[Jldet5]

Originally Posted by wbloomfield

Well, after trying for an additional hour, I just gave up. I have owned Honda's before and they all have been difficult to loosen the first time. This one is the hardest of them all. I even tried using a pipe(long)over my ratchet handle to give me extra leverage with no success. I am now affraid that the threads of the bolt might be stripped if I try to be more forsefull with it. I will wait until I get the dealer to change(flush)it for me. I will just have to suck it up and pay the $150.00 price!! Anyways, thanks for the suggestions.....

If you park the car on cement, no jacking,
and put a quality metric socket that fits tight,
and place the ratchet at a angle towards the front just a couple of inches off the cement,
and put your foot on the ratchet while holding onto the front underside,
and slowly build pressure pushing towards the rear,
it will pop no problem.

I also did this while the trans was warm, not that it probably matters. I easily used 100 foot lbs. Pun intended!

Just be sure your on the drain bolt and not a case bolt. I seem to recall the case bolts were different.

[wbloomfield]

I might try again.... It's the drain bolt. I have owned 2 Hondas and 1 Acura before. All of them were difficult but this one takes the cake!! The rachet fits directly in the bolt. Thanks for the suggestion..

[Jldet5]

Originally Posted by wbloomfield

I might try again.... It's the drain bolt. I have owned 2 Hondas and 1 Acura before. All of them were difficult but this one takes the cake!! The rachet fits directly in the bolt. Thanks for the suggestion..

Thats right. I forgot about the 3/8 drive fitting in and no need for a socket. How easily I forget the small details! Anyways, it did make quite the pop noise when it let loose. Not doubt it was tight. Not sure if it should be a warm or cold trans at this point. Spark plugs with aluminum heads were always suppose to be taken out cold as I recall. Not sure if the same applies here but I did mine when the trans was slightly warm.

[wbloomfield]

Sorry for me delay in updating you on how my trans. fluid change went. The only time I am able to work on my Vue is during the weekend. Today, I am proud to say, I was able to get my oil bolt loose and preformed a successful trans. oil change. Thanks for your suggestion on how to get it loose. It worked like a charm. It still was the toughest Honda bolt(trans.)that I have ever removed before. It took me about 10 minutes to free that thing up. Anyways, the next time will be a lot easier.

FYI I drained just shy of 5 Quarts of fluid. Honda fluid went in meeting the Z-1 requirements. Paid $4.25/quart at the Honda dealer. Saturn wanted $5.50/quart. They did not even know it was a Honda trans. Figures, I still wonder where this great Saturn service is......

[Jldet5]

Originally Posted by wbloomfield

Sorry for me delay in updating you on how my trans. fluid change went. The only time I am able to work on my Vue is during the weekend. Today, I am proud to say, I was able to get my oil bolt loose and preformed a successful trans. oil change. Thanks for your suggestion on how to get it loose. It worked like a charm. It still was the toughest Honda bolt(trans.)that I have ever removed before. It took me about 10 minutes to free that thing up. Anyways, the next time will be a lot easier.

FYI I drained just shy of 5 Quarts of fluid. Honda fluid went in meeting the Z-1 requirements. Paid $4.25/quart at the Honda dealer. Saturn wanted $5.50/quart. They did not even know it was a Honda trans. Figures, I still wonder where this great Saturn service is......

Glad you were able to work it out!

[burnout]

My trans is draining as I type this. One trick I found for us K&N Intake owners...

Use the rubber vent tube from your 77 series intake as a fill tube for your transmission! I'm about to go outside and do that, and I can attach my funnel+hose to the tube also.

I have some old syntec bottles laying around. I'm going to use them to measure how much fluid came out. I have 5 quarts of Z1 waiting!

[pachucoboyx]

ok, for some strange reason i found this article wanting to find info on how to check the transmission fluid on a '04 Saturn Ion. I have read all this and gone outside to see if I can find the dipstick for the transmission fluid in the spots mentioned, and I cant find anything, i feel like an idiot now. I'll keep searching for that dipstick, but in the meantime, does anyone have a picture of where i might be able to find the dipstick for the transmission? the only one i can find is the yellow one that goes to the motor oil. on my '97 SC1 it was a red dipstick, and i was hoping it would be the same color on the Ion, but no luck.

[HomeBase]

Has anyone used the Amsoil ATF fluid in your Vue? It's Z1 rated now. Just wondering if performance is any better than the standard Honda or Saturn bottled Z1 product.

[Jldet5]

Originally Posted by HomeBase

Has anyone used the Amsoil ATF fluid in your Vue? It's Z1 rated now. Just wondering if performance is any better than the standard Honda or Saturn bottled Z1 product.

Yes, I don't think you'll notice an immediate difference. Won't know for sure until I change it a few more times and see if the color stays like new or ages like the stock.