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Old 10-22-2019, 03:48 PM   #21
Attloyden
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1997 SW2
Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

Three junkyards down still nothing. If that ICM don't work i might need to find a shop.

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Old 10-22-2019, 05:07 PM   #22
focusofheart
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1998 SL2
Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Attloyden View Post
Is that 400$ plus the costs of the re-manufactured computer, or 400$ tottal?
My mechanic, at the time, told me he had to replace the computer and charged me a little over $400.00 total.

...
1998 SL2

Last edited by focusofheart; 10-22-2019 at 05:22 PM..

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Old 10-22-2019, 11:49 PM   #23
Attloyden
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1997 SW2
Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

I just need to find a good mechanic, if thats the issue. I dont want to get a cash car privately because i have to pay inspection and registration fees agian.

Gonna replace the ICU first, and if it does not work return it, and find a mechanic that does work on computers. Maybe the one near me does.

The chances of finding a used PCM are slim to none unless someone here knows where to get one online.

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Old 10-23-2019, 01:51 PM   #24
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1997 SW2
Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

Alright so it was the ICM I replaced it and it started up. My only concern is why it's failing and I'm worried the new one might also fail if i don't fix the exhaust leak around the flex pipe.

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Old 10-23-2019, 02:38 PM   #25
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1998 SL2
Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

Progress!

I know I brought it up but I'm kind of surprised that there is enough heat to affect your ICM, even with a big old hole(?) in the exhaust

There should be a series of aluminum heatshields, running from the front of the engine (over the cat, flex pipe, resonator, etc) all the way back to the muffler. Is that missing?

You can buy a stainless steel flex pipe for about $20 on ebay and a couple of band clamps for about $8 each. You'll want to measure before buying to make sure of the size. I was going to go the band-clamp route, but due to some complications of other things going on, I just left it at a shop and paid them to weld the flex pipe in.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20010DN-Exh...53.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Stainless...53.m1438.l2649

...
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Old 10-23-2019, 03:44 PM   #26
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1997 SW2
Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

The flex pipe isnt leaking where i thought. Its leaking around the support ahead of the flex pipe. They are also smaller than i thought. I'll be using high temp metal expoxy on that. But the leaks arent even blowing on the transmission case. However the heat shields are gone.

Tomorrow I'm geting some more dielectric grease for better heat transfer and a 775 dayco serpentine belt to fix the squealing since i suspect the aftermarket belt tensioner isn't as strong as the original was i can deflect the 778 continental elite belt a little too easily.

I'm not sure where to get heat shields.

Last edited by Attloyden; 10-23-2019 at 03:51 PM..

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Old 10-23-2019, 06:09 PM   #27
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Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

While you have a legitimate concern about premature failure of your last ignition control module, replacing it and wondering if this second(?) icm will fail, things have to be taken in perspective. GM, like other auto manufacturers, have varied new car warranties to ensure defects are handled without cost. Once new car warranty expires, any parts failing can be explained away to no satisfaction. Unless an unreasonable car owner refuses to accept the inevitable, parts wear out, fail outright or abused. To add to the mystery, aftermarket parts can be either well made to "meet or exceed manufacturer's specifications" and still fail prematurely or last as long as factory parts. There are fine points in machining metal parts, differences in bearing manufacturing and differences in electronic components. One electronic component now infamous to the S-series is the original round nosed resin coolant temperature sensor. GM may or may not have predicted the outcome but history has shown it to be a near total failure leading to many issues including erratic xmission shifts. The usual symptoms are flooded startups, hard starting from fuel flooding, actual backfiring thru the intake manifold with flames coming out the throttle body, premature cylinder wear as excessive fuel washes away the thin oil film, etc. Saturn didn't put out a service bulletin until about ten years after the S-series debuted. Ten years. Brass replaced the resin nose. Brass coolant sensors were already used back in '77 (my sports car exhibited occasional backfiring and rough idle when I thought the temperature sensor was faulty - it wasn't). Why GM/Saturn decided on plastic tipped coolant sensors is unknown but saving a few cents here and there is one speculation.

If you read other Saturn forums, the Astra seems to kill their ignition coil packs (four or two coils epoxied as one unit for coil over plug configuration). When Astras were new, the coil packs were around $450(?!) but some members found aftermarket replacements for around $90 and tried them. No one complained of the less costly replacement. Those doubting aftermarket paid the exorbitant cost of an oem part. And yet in another Saturn forum, 2.2L engines kill their icm while the coil pack remains reliable. This two piece ignition system has the icm sitting in a pocket of the coil pack with both sitting on top of the engine (4cyl). Heat cycling killing the icm?

No one guarantees electronics after a new car warranty expires so parts are living well beyond expectations. While quality control during manufacturing ensures overall reliability, this wasn't the case with the resin temperature sensor. Maybe the engineer(s) were off that day when designating material use in coolant sensors. I don't know if the S-series is the only model to use a specific ignition control module as no one has found other models using it. This makes it a depleting commodity with little aftermarket support to a dying brand. All you can do is search forums for a history (here) and go with what's recommended or try aftermarket parts and cross your fingers.

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Old 10-23-2019, 06:39 PM   #28
Attloyden
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1997 SW2
Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

The icm that failed was basically a budget icm from an auto parts store. The one i just installed uses an OEM chip and was made in the usa, found it on amazon and got it after reading reviews saying they had no start conditions and erratic engine behavior and installing it fixed everything decided to go with that one.

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Old 10-23-2019, 06:40 PM   #29
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1997 SW2
Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

This is the part.

https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-DS2002.../dp/B000CGHVXG

Last edited by Attloyden; 10-23-2019 at 06:45 PM..

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Old 10-31-2019, 11:32 PM   #30
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Default Re: 1997 SW2 Crank but no start, stuck on wiring.

Attloyden:

Good job!
..............

On my '97 SW the wire harness & electronics was excellent (drove from 150k-230kMi) Except for:
(1) needed new IgSw
(2) poor starter performance (even with new starter motor)

I removed the ICM when first got car, sanded smooth corrosion on the
aluminum plate on bottom of ICM, re-installed after lightly painting the
plate & the trans hsg surface.

Then installed Magnecor Ig wires, had no more ignition issues.
........

I needs be mentioned that sitting unused is bad for wiring harnesses....
seems allow moisture to degrade all exposed electric connections.

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