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Old 09-29-2020, 09:54 AM   #21
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierrot View Post
You have no idea how relieved I am to know that you're not going to perform any work on the engine block. While I'm glad to know that you're taking our advice what was most important was your willingness to reconsider things. If any of us lack the ability to reexamine our ideas or positions about any type of subject we're in danger of making poor decisions. (I include myself in the preceding statement - I know my own weaknesses.)

With regard to cylinder head work and replacing the timing belt, you are correct. If the cylinder heads have their respective parts in proper alignment then there should be no danger of doing harm to the pistons or the valves with a correct installation of the timing belt.
pierrot,

After reviewing this thread before posting a question. I want to say that I respect your wisdom in paragraph 1. It stood out more this time than last time I read it.

Thanks again!

Helped in more ways than the Car!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-29-2020, 10:24 AM   #22
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Question I wonder what I truly am up against for the finale on oil leak mitigation!

Hey everyone! Hope your morning is well my fellow Americans and others!

I haven't quite acquired all the tools just yet; however, getting a little closer. I was doing some research on the L300 L81 3.0L V6 Timing Belt replacement on the CTS YT video I posted earlier. I took a snapshot because after he removed the timing belt cover I immediately seen the area that I am smoking from now since the upper plenum + throttle body + PCV crankcase housing replacement and oil leak fix.

Unfortunately; to make things comical, if you followed any previous threads with RJ and I going at each others throats. He mentioned I would need to wear masks for a date in my car or something similar. This smoke is going through the vents of the heater now. (Ironic!)

The smoke out the tail pipe never used to put white smoke out (at least not heavily that I noticed like I do now since I have done the already done repairs + preventive maintenance(s).

* So in regards to someone following me around; I am not driving this car until it's 100% safe and working*

My upcoming project is the full timing belt replacement + idle pulleys + tensioner + camshaft seals + crankshaft seal + engine lube + full cleaning of everything inside the timing belt area). (1st thing's first) -- THIS!

The area I circled on the snapshot from the video is where I am currently smoking/having leaks. Once I seen the crankshaft seal be replaced by this man in the video; I immediately wondered, could this be my problem also?

So I wanted to come online this morning and circled it up to ask the experts. What could I be up against?

Is that circled tube area:

1) Head Gasket Area
2) Valve Cover Area

and is the sensor Knock Sensor #1 or Knock Sensor #2 or , neither?

Thanks, as always!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-29-2020, 12:49 PM   #23
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

This question was asked (at least once) back in 2009 and I couldn't answer where the L81 3.0L V6 engine oil pressure sensor was located because I used my GM service manual...........showing only the 2.2L 4cyl sensor location in both 4cyl and 6cyl sections. I wasn't concerned for myself but upset that two misprints were found in these manuals. I looked again in my service manuals and it still shows only the 4cyl pressure sensor drawing mistakenly in the 6cyl section. This time from your snapshot I retraced the error again using your snapshot. A previous member gave a vague description and I was lost.

Reviewing drawings in the service manuals, several pages show what I think is the location of our 3.0L V6 engine oil pressure sending unit. The red circled part is the oil pressure sensor. Specifically, on the left side of the crankshaft (the lowest pulley at the bottom of the engine). My service manual drawing shows the fitting coming straight out of the engine oil pressure pump assembly then angled down about 30-45 degrees before the oil pressure sensor is screwed into it. A more experienced member can either corroborate this or point out my mistake. Clean it with spray solvent to degrease it and wipe off as much greasy oil and dirt around the mating area then monitor it on the next engine startup. Since oil pressure is fed to this sensor, it's either leak free for years of service or become faulty and/or leak. The best you can do for now is trying to tighten it a bit if it loosened. If oil leaks out the connector then its damaged and should be replaced. If this sending unit doesn't leak any oil then the problem is elsewhere.

That part you circled is neither knock sensor 1 nor 2. Knock sensors are below and to one side of each upper O2 sensor. The upper O2 sensors are mounted onto the exhaust manifold. The lower two O2 sensors are mounted after each catcon.
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Old 09-29-2020, 07:34 PM   #24
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

I agree the sensor in your picture is the oil pressure sensor on a V-6 L81 engine. Oil pressure sensors are a known source of oil leaks.
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Old 09-30-2020, 12:40 AM   #25
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

I think it is simply an Oil Pressure Switch. It is not a sensor which reports specific data representing the oil pressure. It's ON or OFF. Correct me if I am wrong.

I changed my Oil Pressure Switch after I thought it was leaking oil, it was not. The oil was leaking because of excess crankcase pressure and the over heating of BANK 2 via a large vacuum leak. Once I fixed the vacuum leak and the PCV Module... the crankcase pressure was controlled, the over heating was corrected and the oil stopped leaking.

Edited because I realized I repeated myself from an earlier post under this thread. I do believe the part's proper name is Oil Pressure Switch not a Oil Pressure sending unit. Nevertheless, the information we all provided is getting redundant under this thread. Rebuilding an engine requires experience. I don't advise a newbie to take on such a task without an experienced mechanic nearby. When I rebuilt my Mustang engine (as crude as it was), I was consulting with mechanics that built 3 stock car engines a week. The advice they gave me was timely and accurate. I couldn't have done it without them.

Last edited by Rj 2000 LS2; 09-30-2020 at 12:54 AM. Reason: Redundant Reply
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Old 09-30-2020, 02:38 AM   #26
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

There appears to be a sizable amount of caked-on oil on the switch (if I'm viewing the photo accurately). 02 LW300 is correct - oil pressure switches are indeed known sources for oil leaks on almost any engine. I replaced mine over the Summer, but it should've been replaced several years ago. The caked-on oil residue was quite thick for a long time. Oh well......Now that there's a new switch and no more caked-on oil present. It's clean!

If oil has been leaking from the oil pressure switch and the oil was reaching a hot exhaust system part then the smoke arising would be whitish in color. This is typical. Additionally, this particular smoke will not ever exit out of the exhaust system since it's burning completely outside of it. As you're driving and that smoke rises up and reaches the exterior HVAC inlet then some of it will enter the cabin. Whatever smoke may be seen from the tailpipe is there because it has entered the exhaust system and for no other reason. Lastly, if the oil pressure switch is the source of the oil leak that you're concerned with then your repair has just become much simpler than you'd expected it to be. You may need to purchase a special deep socket to remove and replace that switch, or you may merely need a wrench.
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Old 09-30-2020, 07:08 AM   #27
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
This question was asked (at least once) back in 2009 and I couldn't answer where the L81 3.0L V6 engine oil pressure sensor was located because I used my GM service manual...........showing only the 2.2L 4cyl sensor location in both 4cyl and 6cyl sections. I wasn't concerned for myself but upset that two misprints were found in these manuals. I looked again in my service manuals and it still shows only the 4cyl pressure sensor drawing mistakenly in the 6cyl section. This time from your snapshot I retraced the error again using your snapshot. A previous member gave a vague description and I was lost.

Reviewing drawings in the service manuals, several pages show what I think is the location of our 3.0L V6 engine oil pressure sending unit. The red circled part is the oil pressure sensor. Specifically, on the left side of the crankshaft (the lowest pulley at the bottom of the engine). My service manual drawing shows the fitting coming straight out of the engine oil pressure pump assembly then angled down about 30-45 degrees before the oil pressure sensor is screwed into it. A more experienced member can either corroborate this or point out my mistake. Clean it with spray solvent to degrease it and wipe off as much greasy oil and dirt around the mating area then monitor it on the next engine startup. Since oil pressure is fed to this sensor, it's either leak free for years of service or become faulty and/or leak. The best you can do for now is trying to tighten it a bit if it loosened. If oil leaks out the connector then its damaged and should be replaced. If this sending unit doesn't leak any oil then the problem is elsewhere.

That part you circled is neither knock sensor 1 nor 2. Knock sensors are below and to one side of each upper O2 sensor. The upper O2 sensors are mounted onto the exhaust manifold. The lower two O2 sensors are mounted after each catcon.
fdryer,

I am glad that my question queried a solve from a previous questionable scenario. Thank you for clearing this up for me. I have found the part;

"https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2001/saturn/l300/body_electrical/oil_pressure_sender.html" "Oil Pressure Sender ... fortunately they are under $20!

I will for certain give this replacement a shot! With the engine not running; do you believe I will lose lots of oil; requiring an immediate oil change after replacing and doing my timing belt & seals?

I am trying to figure out now if I need to have x amount of oil + new filter handy after replacing the oil pressure sender to rule out a leak.

Is spray solvent equivalent to brake cleaner / parts cleaner? Is this typical usage on most parts in our L300? Just ensure the connectors are covered from the solvent getting in the wiring harnesses and such?

I noticed the oil pressure sender has a washer and it's threading look's solid. I feel strongly a replacement is the only wise decision now finding out this information.

As usual, thank you for your knowledge and time fdryer!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-30-2020, 07:09 AM   #28
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02 LW300 View Post
I agree the sensor in your picture is the oil pressure sensor on a V-6 L81 engine. Oil pressure sensors are a known source of oil leaks.
02 LW300,

Very good to know! I located the part and they are under $20 w/ new washer and thread. Known source for oil leaks! Let's nip this one in the butt!

Thanks a bunch!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-30-2020, 07:16 AM   #29
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
I think it is simply an Oil Pressure Switch. It is not a sensor which reports specific data representing the oil pressure. It's ON or OFF. Correct me if I am wrong.

I changed my Oil Pressure Switch after I thought it was leaking oil, it was not. The oil was leaking because of excess crankcase pressure and the over heating of BANK 2 via a large vacuum leak. Once I fixed the vacuum leak and the PCV Module... the crankcase pressure was controlled, the over heating was corrected and the oil stopped leaking.

Edited because I realized I repeated myself from an earlier post under this thread. I do believe the part's proper name is Oil Pressure Switch not a Oil Pressure sending unit. Nevertheless, the information we all provided is getting redundant under this thread. Rebuilding an engine requires experience. I don't advise a newbie to take on such a task without an experienced mechanic nearby. When I rebuilt my Mustang engine (as crude as it was), I was consulting with mechanics that built 3 stock car engines a week. The advice they gave me was timely and accurate. I couldn't have done it without them.

RJ,

partsgeek.com is only wanting less than $7 for this part. They call it the following:

"API Oil Pressure Sender
Oil Pressure Sender
Our List Price: $6.98
Part Number: 4848-07489134
Notes: Engine Oil Pressure Switch -- For Light"

What's *VERY interesting about this* ... is the last time I ran my engine. The oil light was flickering (very 1st time I EVER seen this happen) ... this was the same time I was noticing the smoke coming out of that area *only* now... [This leads to me to believe that fdryer and LW300 are onto something] , and it only starts when I go beyond 3,000 RPM's in parked position. (Idling doesn't/didn't cause smoke smell in the cabin and very little white plumes out the exhaust pipe)... (I feel the power of the engine too when achieving 3000-4000 RPM's.) -- it wants to take off). *Which I am taking as good news*.

I am glad that the vacuum leak you were able to mitigate along with a new oil pressure switch and the PCV.

I feel all this information is pertinent to this thread.

Appreciate your feedback! Have a good morning!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-30-2020, 07:23 AM   #30
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierrot View Post
There appears to be a sizable amount of caked-on oil on the switch (if I'm viewing the photo accurately). 02 LW300 is correct - oil pressure switches are indeed known sources for oil leaks on almost any engine. I replaced mine over the Summer, but it should've been replaced several years ago. The caked-on oil residue was quite thick for a long time. Oh well......Now that there's a new switch and no more caked-on oil present. It's clean!

If oil has been leaking from the oil pressure switch and the oil was reaching a hot exhaust system part then the smoke arising would be whitish in color. This is typical. Additionally, this particular smoke will not ever exit out of the exhaust system since it's burning completely outside of it. As you're driving and that smoke rises up and reaches the exterior HVAC inlet then some of it will enter the cabin. Whatever smoke may be seen from the tailpipe is there because it has entered the exhaust system and for no other reason. Lastly, if the oil pressure switch is the source of the oil leak that you're concerned with then your repair has just become much simpler than you'd expected it to be. You may need to purchase a special deep socket to remove and replace that switch, or you may merely need a wrench.
pierrot,

Unfortunately the photo isn't from mine. I took a screen shot of a video from youtube that showed the area I was referring to. Mine also had lots of black oil around the plastic piece and I spent a good 20 minutes cleaning it up one day. I just never disconnected it and was extremely gentle with the wiring and the harness. I didn't know what it was and knew it was very important. I am glad fdryer and LW 300 cleared up the confusion on my part regarding it being a Knock Sensor #1 or Knock Sensor #2.

This new information excites me with a little bit of added hope. If you are correct, sir. Then you would be 100% in that my repair just became much simpler than I had expected it to be. I have a full set of wrenches (I believe it will do the job).

If I cannot match a wrench up; I will find a matching deep socket! Thank you for that advice!

Could white smoke as I describe be known due to a coolant leak derived from a bad/failing water pump (broken seals) and / or leaking thermostat (broken seals) ?

Might be a victory if the leak is the Oil Sensor + Timing Belt Seals and the White smoke turns out to be Coolant Leak (Water Pump and or Thermostat). Or am I dreaming?

Thanks again!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-30-2020, 08:55 AM   #31
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

You will only lose a small amount of oil when changing the oil pressure switch.
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Old 09-30-2020, 09:37 AM   #32
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

If you try to replace the Oil Pressure Switch while the engine is running... you might lose a bunch of oil... LOL

It barely even drips when the Oil Pressure Switch is out while the engine is OFF. Don't worry about it.

As far as the white smoke coming out the exhaust. Byproducts of combustion is water vapor and hydrocarbons (CO2). This is why all mufflers have "water" drain holes. As I learned when I finally stopped patching our muffler and replaced it... I found liters of water inside it! The drain had likely been blocked for years! I had a literal aquarium as a muffler.

It is totally normal to see smoke out the exhaust as the exhaust systems warms up. It takes a few miles of driving before the water vapor is dissipated from the exhaust system. Seeing how you are only starting the engine and reving it without driving it... there will always be smoke coming out the exhaust! It's normal!
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Old 09-30-2020, 02:44 PM   #33
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Most of us with tools have an assortment of adjustable channel lock pliers and adjustable open end wrenches. The adjustable open end wrench when a socket or fixed open/boxed wrench isn't available. Try an adjustable wrench. The oil pressure sensor is hand tight m doesn't require exact torque values because it seats with a metal crush gasket (copper or aluminum) to seal against oil pressure. When tightened, you'll feel the sensor stop turning when it seats squarely onto the fitting. A little more tightening is all that's needed, no more.

Brake cleaner, throttle cleaner, etc, are handy in spray cans as they degrease and move dirt, grease and oil from metal. Gasoline is an excellent solvent but it's highly flammable and rarely used but if you're out in the middle of nowhere and have a gas can, it degreases as long as the person isn't smoking or others nearby aren't playing with fire. The smell is awful but it is what is is. Most solvents are derived from crude oil as most are petroleum byproducts to use safer than gasoline. They're all flammable as all have warnings against use near open flames or live electrical circuits. Buying solvent in pint containers and using a brush for parts cleaning is another alternative to using spray solvents.

With engine off, a little oil dribbles out the fitting when removing the sending unit. Oil will not drain out to empty the oil pan. Don't be concerned about refilling oil after replacing the pressure sensor.
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:23 PM   #34
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lrbraner View Post
You will only lose a small amount of oil when changing the oil pressure switch.
lbraner,

Thank you! Very good to know. Less than 1 Quart or just drops? I will be replacing it with the vehicle off completely.

Best Regards,

~ Brandon
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:26 PM   #35
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
If you try to replace the Oil Pressure Switch while the engine is running... you might lose a bunch of oil... LOL

It barely even drips when the Oil Pressure Switch is out while the engine is OFF. Don't worry about it.

As far as the white smoke coming out the exhaust. Byproducts of combustion is water vapor and hydrocarbons (CO2). This is why all mufflers have "water" drain holes. As I learned when I finally stopped patching our muffler and replaced it... I found liters of water inside it! The drain had likely been blocked for years! I had a literal aquarium as a muffler.

It is totally normal to see smoke out the exhaust as the exhaust systems warms up. It takes a few miles of driving before the water vapor is dissipated from the exhaust system. Seeing how you are only starting the engine and reving it without driving it... there will always be smoke coming out the exhaust! It's normal!
Rj,

Alright, good to know and for the muffler confusion; glad you got it resolved, though. Fish in your muffler cannot be fun! Could have been a smelly adventure!

Regarding the smoke; I can't say for certain without fixing the oil leak first (if/when I find & repair it properly).

Best Regards,

~ Brandon
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:32 PM   #36
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
Most of us with tools have an assortment of adjustable channel lock pliers and adjustable open end wrenches. The adjustable open end wrench when a socket or fixed open/boxed wrench isn't available. Try an adjustable wrench. The oil pressure sensor is hand tight m doesn't require exact torque values because it seats with a metal crush gasket (copper or aluminum) to seal against oil pressure. When tightened, you'll feel the sensor stop turning when it seats squarely onto the fitting. A little more tightening is all that's needed, no more.

Brake cleaner, throttle cleaner, etc, are handy in spray cans as they degrease and move dirt, grease and oil from metal. Gasoline is an excellent solvent but it's highly flammable and rarely used but if you're out in the middle of nowhere and have a gas can, it degreases as long as the person isn't smoking or others nearby aren't playing with fire. The smell is awful but it is what is is. Most solvents are derived from crude oil as most are petroleum byproducts to use safer than gasoline. They're all flammable as all have warnings against use near open flames or live electrical circuits. Buying solvent in pint containers and using a brush for parts cleaning is another alternative to using spray solvents.

With engine off, a little oil dribbles out the fitting when removing the sending unit. Oil will not drain out to empty the oil pan. Don't be concerned about refilling oil after replacing the pressure sensor.
fdryer,

Thank you for that detailed explanation. Very helpful. I do not have one of those in my tool box as of yet. I suppose as a DIY-er and saturnfans member now, I will be utilizing one in the future if/when I find and repair this oil leak properly.

Lucky for me; I checked today and have fresh pictures. I forgot until now; it's been very busy and a million thoughts flying through my head trying to solve this puzzle.

The pictures I will post next show the Engine Oil Sender / Sensor as you described how to replace (I found a wrench that worked; however I had to slip it upside the "honey comb" looking part of the "cat" ?). I believe it will work and I didn't want to check today so I didn't give it a turn or anything; just checked to make sure it fit and guessed in my head if I had enough room to wrench it over and over until it finally comes loose when the time comes.

Oil is all behind it and I felt with my hands up and around the timing belt enclosure and it was extremely leaky. I am excited to see inside the timing belt cover regardless if I win or lose at this point.

I have been studying on the timing belt and have coded my tool kit to match the Factory Service Guide codes; (making it easier for my brain to reference the correct part).

I believe that I understand the TDC and moving the crankshaft 60 degrees clockwise BTDC to ensure there is no engine damage. And the locking red and green.

Anyways...

Fingers crossed that it's the camshaft/crankshaft seals and the engine oil sender / sensor and not valve/gasket seals.

Best Regards and expect my pictures on my next post,

~ Brandon
...
“For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.” - John 3:16 (KJV)

Last edited by BrandonKastning; 09-30-2020 at 11:36 PM. Reason: forgot to explain something
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:49 PM   #37
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Thumbs Up Pictures today - Oil Leak behind the Engine Oil Sender / Sensor - 09-30-2020

Pictures today - Oil Leak behind the Engine Oil Sender / Sensor - 09-30-2020

Thanks again everyone for all the assistance! 100% to this forum regardless you witness a catastrophe or a victory.

Best Regards,

~ Brandon
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“For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.” - John 3:16 (KJV)
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Old 10-01-2020, 07:12 AM   #38
Rj 2000 LS2
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Man, that is one clean looking engine area next to the Oil Pressure Switch! Our's is mostly black from old oil debris.

Going back to your first posts on this forum. I advised you to change your valve cover gaskets and verify the PCV Module operation. Have you completed these much needed tasks?
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Old 10-01-2020, 09:05 AM   #39
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
Man, that is one clean looking engine area next to the Oil Pressure Switch! Our's is mostly black from old oil debris.

Going back to your first posts on this forum. I advised you to change your valve cover gaskets and verify the PCV Module operation. Have you completed these much needed tasks?
Rj,

Thanks the compliment this morning! I have spent countless hours and weeks cleaning up oil by hand and removing oil deposits working on this "repair".

I wish I had a gallery of Valve Cover Gaskets completed here on saturnfans.com!

First thing is first! Timing Belt + Idlers + Pulleys + Camshaft / Crankshaft Seals + Engine Oil Pressure Sensor.

Once that is completed. If it's still leaking... then I have to rip apart the block and learn how to overhaul it with a complete gasket sealing kit. (Including Valve Cover Gaskets).

You really believe that the Valve Cover Gaskets (at the very top) are leaking all the way down and up inside the timing belt cover? That doesn't seem logical to me considering the Valve Cover Gaskets are on the top of the block. All my oil leakage is coming from the inside / in-between the area's around the passenger side of the engine block and near the timing belt area. If it can leak from the Valve Cover Gaskets and cause all the oil mess that mine has done since the PCV Crankhouse + Upper Plenum + New Hoses + Throttle Body repair / replacement then I truly am out of my league!

(For example: Yesterday when pulling my Alternator bolts; the end inch-inch 1/2 on the bolt was drenched in oil (the exact same amount on the other bolt). What's interesting is when I pulled the Alternator and felt up in the area (same spot under the timing belt cover) -- all drenched in fresh oil since the last time I ran the vehicle. I haven't ran it since; the flickering of the oil light for the first time and the high RPM "blow out" of whatever seal as you describe "blow black" or a similar term i've seen you type.

On a positive note; I have no leaks that are leaking onto my driveway!

Cheers! I will keep everyone posted as I win or fail!

Best Regards,

~ Brandon

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Last edited by BrandonKastning; 10-01-2020 at 09:12 AM. Reason: forgot to add some things - good morning all!
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Old 10-01-2020, 10:14 AM   #40
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Your spark plug seats were wells of oil when you replaced the plugs. The oil can and does rain down over the bank 1 exhaust manifold from the valve covers, all over the alternator, Oil Pressure Switch and every thing from there to the ground. Take a mirror and look between the firewall and Bank 1, viewing the bank 1 valve cover and below. I had so much oil baked onto the exhaust manifold, I thought it had cracks in it. There were no cracks, it was hardened baked on oil "rivers" that looked like cracks. After I cleaned the exhaust manifold, I found no cracks. The oil will burn off the exhaust manifolds on both banks Bank 1 and Bank 2 exhaust manifolds) and you won't likely see any oil on the ground. They leak slowly, not like a drain plug. A video you made long ago a when you thought you burned up your engine and it was smoking like massive group of 6 cigar smokers under the hood... that was from burning oil on your exhaust manifolds... hence, I and others recommended changing the valve cover gaskets. I told you then if you don't change them... you will continue to see oil leaks and you have. So change the valve cover gaskets and stop searching for a mystery oil leak. Gravity works and oil follows these gravity.
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