New rebuilt block, feels seized?

[ktthecarguy]

Hi there,
I have a 98 SW2 that I am rebuilding the engine. It originally had a bad #2 piston - the top ring land was eaten away. smoked like crazy and blew lots of oil.

I replaced the piston, hone the cylinders, new crank and rod bearings, and new seals. It went back together pretty well, but was pretty tight on the engine stand.

I got it bolted back in, and trying to bolt it up to the TC, but it only goes around about 1/4 turn. Now it feels seized.

Anything I can check for?

[J.W.]

Did you use proper lube on the rod (and main ? ) journals before replacing bearings ? Lube the cylinders ? Proper torque on rod and main cap nuts ?
If you put the engine together 'dry' that will lock it up in a hurry .. as will over torque on the nuts.
Just a couple suggestions... Good luck with it - hope it's a simple solution !
JW

[SC2Sick]

Note sure what you mean by TC

[billr]

Are you saying it binds much more when the TC is fastened to the flex-plate (flywheel)? First, I would remove the TC/flex screws and see if the engine becomes just "stiff" again, not un-turnable.

[billysvue]

Tear it down and check your clearances-ring gaps/orientation and all bearings
( get some plastigauge).

SHortcuts let Murphy in the door, as you have found out.

[fdryer]

TC - torque converter?

ktthecarguy, presuming this engine rebuild included removing/replacing/retiming intake/exhaust valves to crankshaft, after assembly did you rotate the engine by hand thru several revolutions to ensure timing is correct? Once timing is set, the engine should turn easily by hand with a long handled ratchet wrench on the crank pulley bolt. Before putting the valve cover back on, you're able to observe cam rotation and valve operation. An error in mechanical timing can result in valves meeting piston tops at the wrong time (mistiming) and locking the engine from rotating. Reversing rotation with the engine unlocking is one way to know timing was incorrect. Rotating in normal direction and feeling the engine locking up again is a sure sign of mistiming.

[OldNuc]

You can try squirting some regular engine oil into each cylinder and cranking it over with the plugs out.

[ktthecarguy]

Hoo boy, lots of questions! first, it is the block only, no head yet. When I built the block, I used assembly lube, and new bearings and rings, and torqued everything to spec. It turned over on the stand, but was very stiff. So far, I have the engine in and the main bolts to the trans are done, an the lower motor mounts. So t would not take a lot to pull it back out.

Is there anything to check before I pull it?

[billysvue]

Originally Posted by ktthecarguy

Is there anything to check before I pull it?

Originally Posted by billysvue

Tear it down and check your clearances-ring gaps/orientation and all bearings
( get some plastigauge).

It should turn easily by hand- shouldn't be stiff, asyou stated.

[hoosierrun]

If the engine rotated a few turns prior to bolting up the TC without too much resistance, but now feels like it's binding with TC on then I think that the converter is not properly seated. Was the converter ever removed from the tranny or did it slip forward?

Converters can be tricky to seat properly. With the tranny bolted to the engine but flex plate not bolted to the converter, the converter should rotate freely. There should always be about 1/16 inch space between the flex plate and converter (bolt pads) prior to bolting it up. Any interference suggests the converter is not seated and starting the engine with an improperly seated converter will damage the front pump on the tranny.

[ktthecarguy]

Aha, that might be the answer. The torque converter was right up against the flywheel before I started putting the bolts in. So it sounds like the TC is not seated correctly.

rats! I guess that means I have to at least partially pull the block again to seat it properly. At least I can fix it before I break something.

[hoosierrun]

You may have to set and secure the tranny so that the converter is facing up. Then gently lift the converter a tiny bit while rotating it and gently dropping it. Depending on how far it is off, this procedure may have to be repeated many times until the converter drops distinctively down into the front pump. Sometimes there are two drop steps, so play with it until you find the right place where it drops down far. You might mash your fingertips when that happens.

[ktthecarguy]

Hi there,
Do you mean take the tranny out and tilt it up so as to drop the TC into place? I can't do that. Can I just rotate the TC and push it in so it engages the pump?

I was able to rotate the engine all the way around and I got the flywheel bolts off. The engine cranks very stiff - a couple times I thought I was going to break off a flywheel tooth. Is it supposed to be that stiff?

[hoosierrun]

Originally Posted by ktthecarguy

Hi there,
Do you mean take the tranny out and tilt it up so as to drop the TC into place? I can't do that. Can I just rotate the TC and push it in so it engages the pump?

I was able to rotate the engine all the way around and I got the flywheel bolts off. The engine cranks very stiff - a couple times I thought I was going to break off a flywheel tooth. Is it supposed to be that stiff?

If you take the engine out and try to re-seat the converter with it horizontal, you risk dumping all the fluid on you if it moves forward.

For a test, try loosening the bell housing bolts a few turns to allow a small amount of separation between the engine and tranny. Then turn the engine again. If it turns easier, then you can assume that the converter was not fully seated.

If it is not seated you can try pulling the engine to see if the converter needs to go in deeper. It is just difficult and you risk taking a bath in ATF.

[billysvue]

Originally Posted by ktthecarguy

The engine cranks very stiff -?

By hand with no head on and TC disconnected?

no, it should turn over easily...