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Old 08-29-2005, 09:54 PM   #1
3danh
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1995 SL1
Wrench Clutch Hydraulic System Replacement [from FSM]

This is straight from my FSM for 1995 S-Series:

CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM REMOVAL

NOTICE: The clutch hydraulic system is to be serviced as a complete unit; it is a sealed unit and has been filled with fluid and bled of air

at the factory. Individual components of the system are not available for service, except the slave cylinder actuator pushrod plastic

retainer strap. Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. The bleed screw located on the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder is used

for the factory fluid fill only.

1. Block clutch pedal up to prevent pedal from being depressed with slave cylinder removed from transaxle.

2. Remove air induction system.

CAUTION: TO PREVENT ARCING WHEN REMOVING THE BATTERY, THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE MUST BE DISCONNECTED FIRST.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal.

4. Disconnect positive battery terminal.

5. Remove battery hold-down retainer (bracket) nut and screws, then remove battery hold-down retainer.

CAUTION: THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL MUST BE DISCONNECTED FIRST TO PREVENT ARCING WHEN REMOVING THE POSITIVE CABLE.
6. Remove battery shield (if equipped).

7. Remove battery.

8. Remove battery tray bolts and tray.
IMPORTANT: Two bolts are located in the fender well.

NOTICE: Removal of the hydraulic damper with a power tool prior to removal of the actuator could result in breaking off the hydraulic line.
IMPORTANT: Prior to removing the slave cylinder from the clutch housing, make sure that the clutch hydraulic system has sufficient fluid.

Refer to the "Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Check" procedures in this manual. (This is not necessary if the clutch hydraulic system is being removed

to be replaced.)

9. Rotate actuator 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward housing in order to disengage the bayonet connector and remove from clutch

housing.

10. Remove two hydraulic damper to clutch housing nuts and slide damper and bracket assembly off studs.

11. ABS equipped vehicles, remove brake master cylinder-to-booster nuts.
NOTICE: ABS equipped vehicles require the brake master cylinder to be moved off booster studs and moved slightly towards the engine to allow

removal of the clutch hydraulic master cylinder. Use care not to bend or kink brake lines.

12. Remove clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer clip from clutch pedal pin and disconnect pushrod from pedal.

13. Turn clutch master cylinder approximately 1/8 turn clockwise and remove from dash.
14. Remove hydraulic system from vehicle.

CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM INSTALLATION

NOTICE: When installing a new unit, the plastic retainer straps on the actuator remain in place when installing the unit. This will ensure

the actuator rod is seated in the clutch release fork pocket as the actuator is installed.
NOTICE: When installing an existing unit, a new plastic retainer strap should be installed on the end of the pushrod and the straps should be

attached to the actuator.

1. Install clutch master cylinder into dash with reservoir leaning outboard. Turn approximately 1/8 turn counterclockwise to lock in

position.

2. On ABS equipped vehicles, place the brake master cylinder back on the booster studs and tighten brake master cylinder-to-booster nuts.
Torque: 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

3. Slide damper and bracket onto clutch housing damper studs and install nuts.
Torque: 25 Nra (18 ft-lbs)

4. Install actuator into clutch housing with hydraulic line facing down and rotate actuator 1/4 turn clockwise while pushing toward housing.

5. Add dielectric (silicone) grease to clutch pedal pin then connect pushrod and install pushrod retainer clip to clutch pedal pin.
NOTICE: On vehicles equipped with cruise control, whenever the clutch master cylinder or clutch pedal is removed the cruise control clutch

switch must be adjusted. Refer to "Cruise Control Clutch Switch Adjustment" procedures in this manual.

6. Install battery tray.

7. Torque battery tray bolts.
Torque: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)

8. Position battery into battery tray.

9. Install battery shield (if equipped).

10. battery hold-down retainer (bracket) nut and screws, then remove battery hold-down retainer.
Torque: 9 Nm (80 in-lbs)

CAUTION: TO PREVENT ARCING WHEN REMOVING THE BATTERY, THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE MUST BE DISCONNECTED FIRST.
11. Connect positive battery terminal.
Torque: 17 Nm (151 in-lbs)

12. Connect negative battery terminal.
Torque: 17 Nm (151 in-lbs)

13. Install air induction system.
Torque: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)

...
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Old 09-09-2005, 11:12 AM   #2
Vertigoomg
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1997 SC2
Default Re: Clutch Hydraulic System Replacement [from FSM]

I just recently replaced my hydraulic system piece by piece. It's actually better than the junkyard piece I had. Here's some food for thought:

1. You'll need a very small flat head screw driver, a hammer, a small vise grip, needle nose pliers, some tool that'll be able to be placed over the rod holding the hose in place, brake fluid, lubricant, and a person to help you with the process.

2. To detach the slave cylinder, use the needle nose pliers to get the cotter pin key out, then take that certain tool and place it over the rod. Hammer it out some, then use the small vise grip to pull it out the rest of the way.

3. Pull the hose out.

4. Make sure the rubber seal thingie is on the INSIDE. I tried it on the outside, and it didn't fit. Also, make sure the rod isn't gonna shoot out of the new slave cylinder AND it has a fitting cap installed. Pulling the rubber thingie over may need the screw driver.

5. LUBRICATE THE ROD.

6. Install the rod. It may need a slight bit of force, but it shouldn't be hard.

7. Uninstall rod after forgetting to put the hose in. D'OH!

8. Put hose in.

9. Install rod.

10. Install cotter pin.

11. If you are not changing the master cylinder, go on and fill the system with brake fluid (DOT 3), then pump the slave cylinder. There should be no leaks. Do the same with the master cylinder.

If you are changing the master cylinder, it will be the same but with the seal OUTSIDE instead of INSIDE. You'll know when you get into it.

12. Btw, if you haven't already, take cap off. Wipe surface area of spilled brake fluid from forgetting to take cap off.

13. Once air bubbles no longer form, install system via Dan's method. You may want to leave some stuff out to make access easier. Now, when you put the slave cylinder in this time, keep the cap on the tip of the rod on and attached to the sides of the cylinder.

14. Pump brakes and freak out over the softness of the petal.

15. SOMEBODY should show up. You're making quite a racket.

16. Convince said person to watch the fluid level of the system while you pump the petal.

17. Repeat step 16 until the person gets bored and walks off.

18. Use any means necessary to convince said person to return.

19. Uninstall the slave cylinder and take the cap off the sides of the slave cylinder. Reinstall and repeat process.

20. Be amazed by increased stiffness IN PETAL.

21. This should intrigue your helper. You can try this with the cap on or the cap off. For me, I did it at first with the cap off then on once pressure increase was felt.

22. Start the car up and do some more pumping.

23. Stop the engine, switch to 1st, and see if it'll start up. If not, continue pumping till you can.

24. Once you can start it, get it so it has satisfactory free-play. Your helper should be amazed by your ability to do something the FACTORY MANUAL said you couldn't do.

25. Save about 80+ bucks by doing this. If the helper happens to be a gender you're attracted to, try to entice said helper with the extra cash for a date.

26. You should be set! Congrats! Of course, I could have forgotten a few steps or added a few that were unnecessary... but oh well...

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Old 10-13-2007, 11:48 PM   #3
Bob K
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Posts: 169
 

1995 SL2
Default Re: Clutch Hydraulic System Replacement [from FSM]

Here are a few added pictures for clarification.

This is straight from my FSM for 1995 S-Series:

CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM REMOVAL

NOTICE: The clutch hydraulic system is to be serviced as a complete unit; it is a sealed unit and has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Individual components of the system are not available for service, except the slave cylinder actuator pushrod plastic retainer strap. Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. The bleed screw located on the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder is used for the factory fluid fill only.

1. Block clutch pedal up to prevent pedal from being depressed with slave cylinder removed from transaxle.

2. Remove air induction system.

CAUTION: TO PREVENT ARCING WHEN REMOVING THE BATTERY, THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE MUST BE DISCONNECTED FIRST.

3. Disconnect negative battery terminal.

4. Disconnect positive battery terminal.

5. Remove battery hold-down retainer (bracket) nut and screws, then remove battery hold-down retainer.


CAUTION: THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL MUST BE DISCONNECTED FIRST TO PREVENT ARCING WHEN REMOVING THE POSITIVE CABLE.

6. Remove battery shield (if equipped).

7. Remove battery.

8. Remove battery tray bolts and tray. IMPORTANT: Two bolts are located in the fender well. (Only 1 on my '95 SL2).


NOTICE: Removal of the hydraulic damper with a power tool prior to removal of the actuator could result in breaking off the hydraulic line. IMPORTANT: Prior to removing the slave cylinder from the clutch housing, make sure that the clutch hydraulic system has sufficient fluid.

Refer to the "Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Check" procedures in this manual. (This is not necessary if the clutch hydraulic system is being removed to be replaced.)

9. Rotate actuator 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward housing in order to disengage the bayonet connector and remove from clutch housing.


10. Remove two hydraulic damper to clutch housing nuts and slide damper and bracket assembly off studs.


11. On ABS equipped vehicles, remove brake master cylinder-to-booster nuts.

NOTICE: ABS equipped vehicles require the brake master cylinder to be moved off booster studs and moved slightly towards the engine to allow removal of the clutch hydraulic master cylinder. Use care not to bend or kink brake lines.



12. Remove clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer clip from clutch pedal pin and disconnect pushrod from pedal.


13. Turn clutch master cylinder approximately 1/8 turn clockwise and remove from dash.

14. Remove hydraulic system from vehicle.

CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM INSTALLATION

NOTICE: When installing a new unit, the plastic retainer straps on the actuator remain in place when installing the unit. This will ensure the actuator rod is seated in the clutch release fork pocket as the actuator is installed.

NOTICE: When installing an existing unit, a new plastic retainer strap should be installed on the end of the pushrod and the straps should be attached to the actuator.

1. Install clutch master cylinder into dash with reservoir leaning outboard. Turn approximately 1/8 turn counterclockwise to lock in position. (Route the new hose underneath the battery cable and underneath the brake master cylinder. I didn't yet have the hose under the battery cable in this picture.)


2. On ABS equipped vehicles, place the brake master cylinder back on the booster studs and tighten brake master cylinder-to-booster nuts.
Torque: 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

3. Slide damper and bracket onto clutch housing damper studs and install nuts. Torque: 25 Nra (18 ft-lbs)

4. Install actuator into clutch housing with hydraulic line facing down and rotate actuator 1/4 turn clockwise while pushing toward housing. (The hydraulic line really isn't facing down but rather is at a downward angle toward the front of the car. Once the actuator is rotated clockwise, the hydraulic line will be horizontal. See green arrow below for starting position.)


5. Add dielectric (silicone) grease to clutch pedal pin then connect pushrod and install pushrod retainer clip to clutch pedal pin.

NOTICE: On vehicles equipped with cruise control, whenever the clutch master cylinder or clutch pedal is removed the cruise control clutch switch must be adjusted. Refer to "Cruise Control Clutch Switch Adjustment" procedures in this manual.

6. Install battery tray.

7. Torque battery tray bolts. Torque: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)

8. Position battery into battery tray.

9. Install battery shield (if equipped).

10. Install battery hold-down retainer (bracket) nut and screws, then install battery hold-down retainer. Torque: 9 Nm (80 in-lbs)

CAUTION: TO PREVENT ARCING WHEN REMOVING THE BATTERY, THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE MUST BE DISCONNECTED FIRST.

11. Connect positive battery terminal. Torque: 17 Nm (151 in-lbs)

12. Connect negative battery terminal. Torque: 17 Nm (151 in-lbs)

13. Install air induction system. Torque: 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) (Don't forget to re-attach the air temp sensor connector.)

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

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Old 05-21-2010, 11:38 PM   #4
Tonegroove
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Default Re: Clutch Hydraulic System Replacement [from FSM]

Wonderful thread and post. I had to do this today and found some interesting information. I called the local Saturn dealer here in Raleigh, NC to get the price of the hydraulic kit. I was quoted $209. This was a far cry from the $150 I saw posted in other threads. I was also replacing a radiator today as well (the thing developed a crack a few days ago). I was able to get the radiator for $120 from CarQuest and the fully filled and bled hydraulic assembly for $120 also!! (I read numerous entries where people said to avoid the aftermarket stuff, mainly due to the need to fill and bleed the hydraulics). It went in without a hitch and works great!

So, there are alternatives to the dealers (current) $200 price tag for the hydraulics... at least here in Raleigh.

Cheers!

(Again, thanks for the great post!!)

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Old 06-21-2012, 08:17 AM   #5
redsl
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Default Re: Clutch Hydraulic System Replacement [from FSM]

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3danh View Post
This is straight from my FSM for 1995 S-Series:


NOTICE: Removal of the hydraulic damper with a power tool prior to removal of the actuator could result in breaking off the hydraulic line.
IMPORTANT: Prior to removing the slave cylinder from the clutch housing, make sure that the clutch hydraulic system has sufficient fluid.

Refer to the "Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Check" procedures in this manual. (This is not necessary if the clutch hydraulic system is being removed

to be replaced.)

9. Rotate actuator 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward housing in order to disengage the bayonet connector and remove from clutch

housing.

10. Remove two hydraulic damper to clutch housing nuts and slide damper and bracket assembly off studs.
The original posting says to remove the actuator first, then remove the two nuts for the damper, but most of the postings seem to say people remove the nuts first. Does it matter?

When I tried to remove the actuator on my 98 SL last night, I could not get it to budge (turning counter clockwise). How much "in" happens when you push in before turning? I'm seriously eyeing my big channel locks since this part is going in the trash...

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Old 06-21-2012, 08:29 AM   #6
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Default Re: Clutch Hydraulic System Replacement [from FSM]

I forgot to ask: Another poster says he does the replacement without removing the battery tray. Is that really feasible? I've got the battery out, but the tray has a frozen bolt, so if I can work around the tray, that's easier than dealing with the bolt this time.

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Old 07-22-2012, 11:47 AM   #7
wheatabix
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1997 SL2
Default Re: Clutch Hydraulic System Replacement [from FSM]

OMG! this is so helpful and (although i did not do this by myself I had a handier friend help me) the posts regarding this made it amazingly easy, one hour and done! he was cursing saturns in the beginning for having to replace the whole set up at once rather than just one 20$ part, but in replacing the whole system, at once and not having to bleed the system and having minimal bolts, awesomeness.

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Old 07-22-2012, 11:55 AM   #8
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Default Re: Clutch Hydraulic System Replacement [from FSM]

Replying to my own questions in case it helps others: 1) I got the actuator out first, then later removed the two nuts. 2) In a 98 SL without power steering or A/C, I was able to work around the battery tray without removing it.

Unfortunately, replacing the hydraulics did not solve my problem.

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