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Old 10-10-2019, 05:09 PM   #1
TwoFistedJustic
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Default How to pull the engine?

200s SC2 5-speed

I found a shop to rebuid my engine. They can do the whole thing if I want, pull, rebuild, reinstall. The pull and reinstall will cost $1,000 in labor.

I don't know exactly what is involved in the pull/install process.

I watched the Richpin video. It seems like there are a lot of little steps in specific orders.

I have access to an engine hoist. And I have skilled people who will probably help me if I need it. So I'm thinking it may be worth while to do it myself.

I should have no difficulty with bolting parts on and off with the engine out of the car and on a stand.

What are the big things I would have to do to pull/install the engine?

What the potential hang-ups I'm likely to face?

How much time should I expect to spend taking it out and putting it back in?
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Old 10-10-2019, 07:25 PM   #2
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

You could get it out over a weekend if you are a first timer. We took longer but I made my 15 year old do all the work.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=230898

Page 4 we get serious about yanking it out. Page 12 we get serious about putting it back in.

Procedure:. Unhook everything and yank out. Then replace and rehook everything.
...
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Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
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Old 10-11-2019, 12:52 PM   #3
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

Apparently, after you've done it enough times, you can pull an engine in an hour or so

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=154967

Of course, OP and Low Saturn aren't dealing with rust . . .
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Old 10-11-2019, 02:01 PM   #4
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

Even not knowing what you're doing there's not much reason to take more than a day to pull it. I got to where I could do a full engine swap in about 7 hours, without power tools (air impact wouldn't fit on most bolts) and with a hoist that refused to move in the dirt with an engine hanging on it.

It's easier with both transmissions to pull as a unit rather than separating, but the manual transmissions have to come out with the engine (it's more work to keep it in the car). With the auto's you have to get a pretty crazy tilt/angle on it to pass the brake MC which is easy with a load leveler.
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Old 10-11-2019, 03:16 PM   #5
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fetchitfido View Post
It's easier with both transmissions to pull as a unit rather than separating, but the manual transmissions have to come out with the engine (it's more work to keep it in the car). With the auto's you have to get a pretty crazy tilt/angle on it to pass the brake MC which is easy with a load leveler.
...or drop the cradle and struts onto a dolly. Then lift the body enough clear rolling the whole thing through a wheel arch. Easy access to everything then.
...
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Old 10-11-2019, 04:06 PM   #6
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

I guess it depends - if you want to take it out the top - or out the bottom.

I prefer out the bottom. Less crawling on the ground.

But - it requires a hoist - and is easier if you have a positioning rack. I built two racks.

Doing it out the bottom can be a pain if you are in the rust belt - as many of the bolts - especially the suvbframe to frame bolts. If the blind nut turns - it can be a problem.

Advantages - less knuckle busting and sore knees from mucking about on the ground.
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:22 PM   #7
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by onlinebiker View Post
But - it requires a hoist - and is easier if you have a positioning rack. I built two racks.
Just your regular old engine lift. Put the sub frame on stands. Drop the bolts. Take the engine/ tranny weight up with the lift. Pull the stands and put a low dolly under the engine. Lower the whole thing down on the dolly. Hook the lift to the frame and lift up the front end just enough to slide the lot out through the wheel well. Set the front end down on stands.
Now you can service the entire assembly with plenty of room to see what you are doing and room to swing a wrench.
...
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:24 PM   #8
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

Those blind nut clips were designed to position the nut for robot assembly, they were not designed to be a disassembly holding fixture. Failure is to be expected.
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Old 10-11-2019, 06:43 PM   #9
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

out the top
about 5-7 hours - engine and manual trans - by myself, cherry picker with load a balancer, on concrete floor, indoors, no power tools.
pull the hood and store away.pull the throttle body, I needed just that much extra room to twist and maneuver the engine and trans out ( and back in). Do the usually stuff, drain fluids, mark and identify wire plugs and such. Hardest part is popping the axles out.
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Old 10-12-2019, 10:28 AM   #10
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

I did the first one out the top, now all out the bottom. I use a hoist but have just done one with engine crane like Claybury. Four subframe bolts, one steering pinch bolt, six top strut bolts, 2 drivers dogbone bolts and 3 top mount bolts with a couple 3/4" wood shims above and below lower pass. dogbone to keep engine vertical. I removed front bumper cover and lifted front of car up with crane and rested up on jackstands just behind cradle. Motor, trans, axles, knuckles, steering and struts all rolled out on a platform dolly.
If you have two cars side by side you can even leave exhaust and only disconnect behind cat.
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Old 10-12-2019, 12:15 PM   #11
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

12/10 do not recommend messing with the cradle bolts in the rust belt without, at a minimum, hardened steel cutting tools (special sawzall blades & 4+inch cut-off wheels) and preferably a welder as well.
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Old 10-12-2019, 01:02 PM   #12
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

I vote out the top. Was pretty easy.
...
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Old 10-12-2019, 02:38 PM   #13
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Default Re: How to pull the engine?

I have pulled at least a dozen (lost track) out the bottom.

I live in Michigan - big time rustbelt.

The Rules:

1. PB blaster is your friend. Use him. A lot. Have more than 1 can.

2. Time is also your friend. Use him. A lot.

3. Hurry is NOT your friend. Use him - and you will probably make 3 times as much work for yourself.

4. Leave all impact style equipment in it's case.
This includes the 44 magnum you will be tempted to employ if you should get a blind nut to spin. ONLY use a breaker bar - and work the bolt back and forth - while reapplying penetrant. Patience goes a long way.

I figure I have sucessfully removed 50 bolts without incident. 2 have spun. Of those two - I step drilled out one and used a side grinder on the second - by cutting the side of the frame - as the frame was scrap.
...
Currently owned
93 SC2
96 SC2
97 SL2
98 SL2
99 SC2
01 SC2 x 2 yellow
02 SC2
02 SL2
parts
2 94 SC2 parted out
2 96 SC2
98 SC2 - rusty frame minus engine.
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