|07-07-2019, 03:20 PM||#1|
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Seattle Area
Oil catch can setup
I just installed a dual oil catch can set up and I found a side effect nobody in my on-line researches said anything about.
This is a closed system, that is, no filtered venting to the atmosphere (I did not want the fumes). I chose a two can setup to maximize air flow from the crankcase as I am tired of the oil soaked intake manifold and thrice yearly scrubbings of the throttle body. I mounted them aft of the battery due to limitations of free space using a Dorman battery hold down and yes I had to slightly modify the battery tray. I chose that because of the additional slots which I could use for mounting. I do intend to install clear bodied, inline fuel filters as a means of filtering any particulates and also as a means to monitor the condition of the returning air back into the intake.
The side effect: The oil cap became very hard to remove and when I did remove it I discovered that the crankcase is now operating under a vacuum. Concerned that it might be too much I measured the vacuum at 5-6 lbs. (I went to the hardware store and purchased a 2" neoprene fender washer (with a small hole) and a 2" steel fender washer. Using these I pressed the adapter probe into the hole and, neoprene side down, set it on top of the oil fill hole in the valve cover and took the reading with my hand held vacuum pump. Worked beautifully.) Perfect! At that low of a negative pressure I do not have to worry about oil starvation of the mains, rods and pins.
The engine idles a little too high but the computer corrects for that after a moment or two. I expect with time it will "learn" the changes in the setup and write it to the adaptives. The engine runs very smooth going down the road and idles smoother as well. As the engine does not put out a lot of horsepower to begin with I do not expect a noticeable increase in power, like one would with a multi-hundred horsepower setup. I do expect the oil leaks to stop. I also have hopes that the gas mileage may go up but only time will tell.
The only bad thing is that now my front main seal whistles. I can live with that.
Lastly, to answer any comments, notice that foam insulation on the intake tube. That is more for noise abatement than cold air enhancement though it does do that. I have to get onto the interstate to and from work and was tired of the intake roar at high acceleration. This foam cuts that noise back quite a bit.
The battery is a dual post as I normally run a sub and hook it to the top posts but as my Ranger is getting a reman engine I have had to remove the sub in order to haul things in the back of the Saturn.
The wires are left over from my V-8 days when I made my own performance wires. I have enough wire, boots and terminals to make three more sets so I am good for the next 7-10 years on that (or longer as the wires are Accell's stainless 8.8 wires).
Anyway that is that. If there are any questions post them and I will respond.
1997 SL1 - Daily driver
Auto and AC
SC2 Suspension front and rear
4 Wheel Disk, crossed drilled and slotted
with Wilwood Dot 4 racing brake fluid
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|08-16-2019, 05:20 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Re: Oil catch can setup
I wonder why it ended up with such negative pressure? Did you have the PVC valve still installed?
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