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Old 10-27-2011, 01:57 PM   #1
eljefino
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1995 SW1
2000 SL1
Default tight motor after ring job

I've done a few ring jobs that turned out okay. Maybe I've gotten rusty since then.

98 SC2, 220k, got it with 70-25-25-70 compression. Sounded like funky compression cranking over. Didn't run. Most I/M monitors were good, code for rear o2 heater, no codes for misfiring, assumed sudden death.

Took apart, cam timing was good. Head gasket tore in two when dismantling, but fire rings looked good. Old head held water upside down with valves closed. Valves etc looked good. Had another head off a 95, figured, hey let's stick this on just in case. Moved fuel rail and injectors from 98. Need to move throttle body-- the TPS mount is different. Running without TPS for now. ECTS is flaky but sometimes reads right, sometimes the gauge jumps to default 1/2. ("Clear flood" is hard to come by without TPS...)

It ran. Ran on two cylinders, I figured some stuff had to be blown out. Held at 2700 RPM, other two cylinders came online after 20-30 seconds. Sounded pretty good. Then it came to a screeching halt, literally: the belt kept going when the crank stopped.

Hit the key, starter didn't turn it over. Healthy battery, yadda yadda.

Came back hours later, it cranks and runs, but stops again.

Wondering what wierd things can cause this real high friction. Tapered bore grabbing new rings? Ring brand is, no foolin, "DNJ" from rockauto, which stands for "Domestic N Japanese".

Oh, hack job alert: I put in two pistons in cyls 2 and 3 with new rings, the pistons were also from that 95. The outer cylinders I left alone. Figured it was a head issue taking my compression, but did the two 20 PSI cylinders "Just in case"-- and their compresson rings were still springy.

Off topic... I couldn't get oil in, the fill hole clogged up after half a quart. So I pulled the pcv valve out, stuck a funnel in, and filled it. Pressure came up (I crank with the fuel pump relay out until the light goes off) so it made it down to the pan. HG is a correct year Felpro from Advance.

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Old 10-27-2011, 03:05 PM   #2
manualman
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1995 SL
Default Re: tight motor after ring job

Say what? Couldn't get more than 1/2 quart of oil in through the valve cover oil cap? That ain't a bit right. Didja forget a RAG in there?

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Old 10-27-2011, 03:37 PM   #3
Highmile
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1995 SL1
Default Re: tight motor after ring job

Did you clean the ring grooves in the piston before you put the new rings on?

Did you check the side clearance of the rings?

Did you check the end gap on the rings?

all things that normally don't cause an issue but there have been some cases of the wrong width rings (excessive side clearance).

Highmile
'95 SL1 467k and counting

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Old 10-27-2011, 03:41 PM   #4
mattelderca
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1998 SC1
1996 SL
Default Re: tight motor after ring job

When you swapped pistons, which rods did you use?
Did you check rod bearing clearances?

...
2000 SL1 freebie, my sons DD
1998 SC1 still running, FOR SALE cheap!
1996 SL, GONE but not forgotten
2005 Generic Silver Minivan (Kia Sedona)
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:20 PM   #5
eljefino
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2000 SL1
Default Re: tight motor after ring job

I didn't measure anything! Rod bearings looked good... and nothing was knocking. Cyl walls had cross hatching but that doesn't say much.

Found a code for crank (not cam) sensor performance, I have a spare I'll throw in just for giggles. It shows cranking RPM. A relay rattles from low voltage. Battery is getting an overnight charge. Won't run long enough to watch all the parameters on the scanner.

I used the rods that came with the 95 pistons, but my intel says they're the same as 98s.

I may also pull all the plugs, run another compression test, see if it's still tight with the plugs out, dribble a little oil in in case the rings are dry, though I wiped the bores with an oily paper towel before knocking the pistons back in.

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Old 10-27-2011, 07:35 PM   #6
eljefino
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Default Re: tight motor after ring job

Oh, and PS I cleaned the ring lands out with an old ring. Usual crud, usual cleanliness when done.

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