Info for S-series newbies

[SaturnManiac]

Okay, so you've just purchased an S-series Saturn or recently joined this site, so here's a few things to know:

1) S-series tend to burn oil, so it's a good idea to get used to checking your oil everytime you fillup your gas tank. The oil burning does NOT affect the performance of the car. If you have excessive oil burning, there are ways you can attempt to treat it. (To help cure excessive oil burning search the how-to library for "MMO soak".) If you do not check your oil and it gets too low, you will kill the engine and be looking at an expensive repair.

2) Do NOT use platinum spark plugs in these cars. The S-series Saturns use what is called a waste spark system and the platinum spark plugs will cause problems. Use the stock NGK coppers....they can be obtained anywhere, and are also sold for regular retail price at the Saturn retailer. The spark plugs should be gapped at 0.040".

3) If your S-series is a 2000 or older, you should replace the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor). The ECTS used from 1991-2000 was made of a plastic tip that would crack and when this tip cracks it will cause the car to act weird. The new ECTS is made of a brass tip and you should not have a problem with it. This new ECTS must be obtained from a Saturn retailer. You should also replace the ECTS wiring connector.

4) When you change your PCV valve, do NOT use an aftermarket PCV valve. The PCV valve should be obtained from a Saturn retailer. If you use an aftermarket PCV valve, it can contribute to oil burning.

5) Do NOT do burn-outs in this car. If you do, you run the risk of blowing the diff pin. If you blow the diff pin, you are looking at a major repair for your transmission. (This applies to both automatics and manuals.)

6) If you have an automatic and it slams into reverse, there is a cure for this, search the how-to library for "reverse slam". If the cure does not work, you might possibly have a bad valve body.

7) If you have a coolant(anti-freeze) leak, it's probably the radiator, check the plastic tubes on the sides, especially the one on the driver's side. You might need to do a pressure test to find this leak. But 9/10 it's the plastic tube on the driver's side that develops a crack. (The stock radiators usually last around 100,000 miles or more.)

These cars are very reliable if taken proper care of. So keep up the maintenace on your car and remember these few tips, and you should have a reliable ride.

Also, the search function is your best friend.


Can someone please make this a sticky!

[bumpdraft]

All very good info.......(here it comes).......except the part about burning oil (In My Experience).

I am serious when I say that my 1998 SC2 does NOT burn oil in the 3000 miles between oil changes.

Maybe I got lucky?..but my dad has a 1998 SW2 and his does NOT burn oil either.

We are both mechanically anally retentive.

AND, we both followed the 500 mile Break-in Procedure when the Saturns were new.

Because I ride dirt bikes with forged pistons, it is second nature to let all engines warm-up before stomping on them. – Even chain saws and lawn mowers!

My 2001 Ford F-350 Superduty Diesel 4WD and ’86 Isuzu Trooper 2 Turbo Diesel won’t accelerate until they’re warm, so I don’t even try to stomp on the accelerator until they’re warmed-up.

I have no problem listing the good and bad points of anything I own. There’s a few “issues” with the Saturn......but, in my experience, burning oil is NOT one of them.

I don’t always baby the SC2’s engine either:
On secondary roads, I drive like grandma (except for cornering!).
On the expressway, I drive my SC2 like a motorcycle**. When it comes to expressway passing, my upper speed limit is somewhere around 95 MPH. (I refuse to get back behind those who speed up when I try to pass and then slow back down when I get back behind them)

**Disclaimer: Each traffic violation has a “point value”
http://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,1607,7...3757--,00.html

[madpogue]

I would combine #1 and #4, since an aftermarket PCV valve is an oil consumption vector.

Items to add:
* shifter cable bushing on the 5-speeds
* sunroof leaks
* '97 fuel pump
(there're more, I'm sure)

[dcp]

excellent post Saturn Maniac

[f3qu3t]

Great info.

I would like to add:

trunk leak (not due to sunroof drainage)
fix - http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78228

My 98 SC2 does not burn any oil either!

[shaner123]

if your car idles high and you've already replaced your ECTS, shake the wires going into your Trottle Position Sensor (TPS) its located on your Trottle Body and if you do this while your car is revin the piss out of itself and it goes down, get a new TPS and problem solved

i dont know how common this is but it drove me nuts and there are so many treads on this topic, i noob might not know where to start and start replacing stuff that is not the problem, at least this you can test out without any tools or buying of expensive parts

my car burns more then before.. gonna do the MMO soak soon

[Uzzy]

All pretty good info, but fror #7, the first thing to check with a coolant leak is the water pump. They fail far more often than the rad itself. Probably the second most likely is the rad.

[eRic 02sc2]

5) feh! I did burnouts all the time in my 92 SC and 96 SC2 and never had transaxle problems. the clutch in my 92 SC was replaced at 102,000 miles and the OE clutch was in my 96 SC2 when I traded it at 170,000 miles. you gotta know how to do a burnout properly. 4000 RPM launching works best if you have tires with the traction for it. you get wheel hop from the OE Firestone Firehawk GTA tires. my 02 SC2 only has 68,000 miles on it and the first thing I did when I got it home was remove the Firehawk GTA tires or maybe the second thing after I removed the DRL relay.

[SaturnManiac]

I'm just saying it's better off not to do burnouts because you run the risk of blowing the diff pin. Either weld it or get the Quiafe limited slip diff. There have been numerous people on this site that have blown the diff pin. I'm trying to help prevent it the best I can. I'm trying to educate. I don't want to encourage kids with their first cars to go out and be stupid and destroy them. You are a professional driver, eRic 02sc2, so you KNOW how to do it correctly.

Also, I realize the water pump is another culprit....but I'm referring more to when the car is older and slowly losing coolant (more to the level of when a pressure test is needed.)

Obviously all Saturns don't burn oil, but majority of the older ones do. It's just good to check your oil, then if you start having to fill up oil, you know either you have an oil burner or have perhaps developed an oil leak.

I'm not trying to add everything to this list.....just a few of the topics that are covered most frequently.

Mainly trying to help newbies prevent from damaging their engine or transmission.....so check oil and don't kill the diff pin!

What I really should say is DON'T try POWER BRAKING in an S-series!!!!

[quiksc2]

Originally Posted by SaturnManiac

What I really should say is DON'T try POWER BRAKING in an S-series!!!!

Aw, but it is sooo much fun in an S car!

[SaturnManiac]

Originally Posted by quiksc2

Aw, but it is sooo much fun in an S car!

If you want to destroy your transmission and blow the diff pin, then be my guest. Apparently you've never done it in a Ford F-350 dualie....now that's FUN. You could smoke the tires all day and night long, LOL. We did it in my friend's Ford F-350 dualie and we smoked up the entire Wal-Mart parking lot....you couldn't do that in an S-series without killing the diff pin. FWD (Front-Wheel Drive) cars weren't meant for power braking. It's more of a truck thing.

[SonnyD]

Count me as another Saturn owner that doesn't use ANY oil!!.....I've rebottled my oil after changing it, I get almost 4 full quarts, save for what stays in the filter. I change my oil on average at 4500 miles on Dino oil, and I'll up that now that I went with Royal Purple

Regards Sonny

[bobc455]

One other note from something I've noticed on my SL2.

If I use 87 octane, I get a bit of pinging. Now there is a knock sensor that reduces the timing when this happens, but remember that is a reactive device (meaning it doesn't change timing until AFTER there is some pinging). This might not blow up your engine tomorrow, but the accumulated effect over tens of thousands of miles can send your headgasket to an early grave. I bet that many Saturns (SL2s at least) ping a bit- I would listen very carefully and use the lowest octane fuel that has no ping.

I kinda wish there was an easy way to read the amount of knock retard from the ECM...

For me, I use 89 octane in the summer, but when we switch to winter blend then I have to use 93.

-Bob Cunningham

[Uzzy]

Originally Posted by bobc455

One other note from something I've noticed on my SL2.

If I use 87 octane, I get a bit of pinging. Now there is a knock sensor that reduces the timing when this happens, but remember that is a reactive device (meaning it doesn't change timing until AFTER there is some pinging). This might not blow up your engine tomorrow, but the accumulated effect over tens of thousands of miles can send your headgasket to an early grave. I bet that many Saturns (SL2s at least) ping a bit- I would listen very carefully and use the lowest octane fuel that has no ping.

I kinda wish there was an easy way to read the amount of knock retard from the ECM...

For me, I use 89 octane in the summer, but when we switch to winter blend then I have to use 93.

-Bob Cunningham

That's the first complaint about pinging from 87 I've heard. Most ppl on here run 87, I think. I do, no issue. Also the headgaskets are not something that often goes on these cars. In fact, it's somewhat rare, I'd say (being a Chrysler 2.2L owner as well. ). A SOHC cracking it's head is more common than a blown headgasket on either motor.

[SonnyD]

I've used nothing but the lowest grade Octane gas available for the last 8 years, I've never had a problem with pinging.....sounds like you may have a buildup of carbon.

Regards sonny

[bobc455]

It is definatley possible that I have a buildup of carbon. I bought the car with 65K miles in 2004- that means it was probably barely driven and could be all carboned up.

It is also possible that I have a keener sense of what to listen for, too- I've driven with some other mechanics who didn't hear the pinging in their own cars, when it was plain as day for me. Probably from years of tuning on my old v8 buick...

It's interesting that you say that there are a lot of cracked heads, but most people use 87 octane...

-Bob C.

[bgates2b]

My SL2 actually got less MPG with premium 93 than it did with good ol' regular 87 (and Beastie is very particular about the gas I put in her, only Mobil and Hess allowed).

Oh, and my baby doesn't use any oil either. Switched her over to Mobil 1 5W-30 after the first 500 mile break-in and I have close to 235,000 on her now.

[seashelly]

Thank you Boys !!! ive printed all this out and am following your leads when trying to fix my teen-queens car. I wish more women were aware of these websites. may be we wouldnt get so soaked, so often from the other half of the guys out there that call themselves mechanics. i really feel empowered to go get the brake fluid and check the TPS myself now. im orderering the pcv valve and the ects from the saturn dealers and bringing them to the nicest mechanic i have found( you guys know the kind, he actually stops and helps a broken down chick on the side of the road) a case of beer & a small but decent greenback and i'm sure he will put in the parts for me P>S. love the tips about plugs you guys rule. respectfully from your busdriva, medical assistant, quazzie mechanic momma

[redkees@msn.com]

Great Post Saturn Maniac!

[Uzzy]

Originally Posted by bobc455

It's interesting that you say that there are a lot of cracked heads, but most people use 87 octane...

The cracked heads happen on the SOHC engines. There is a casting issue, it has nothing to do with the octane rating of the gas.