I had that old 341 code.Now new problem!

[financialguy]

My '98 SL2 started to run rough then the check engine light went on. OBD Scanner said code 341 (camshaft position sensor). I've done some things and now I am not getting any spark or current to the Ignition Module. Please help.

1. Replaced spark plugs (factory recommended) and spark plug wires. Kept firing order correct. Problem remained.

2. Replaced Crankshaft Postion Sensor above starter. Could have just used a cleaning, but it only cost 12.00. Problem remained.

3. Replaced coil packs. New problem. Car turned over, no firing at all.

4. Checked and replaced all fuses in both fuse boxes. Didn't replace any large square relays (is that what they are called?) Problem remained. Still no firing.

5. Looked and checked wires attatched to Crankshaft Position Sensor to verify I didn't damge them when I replaced the sensor or if frayed. Still no spark or firing at all.

6. Tried my best at a voltometer and started to use it on the coil pack terminals. Readings as if no voltage going to the coil packs.

7. Took off the coil packs and ignition module and tested the conections to the ignition module with the voltometer using the instructions I had. According to the instructions, I am not getting current to any of those connections.

8. Went back and checked for wire damage and fuses. No problems found. Still no spark.

9. Purchased a returnable ignition module (they are going to let me take it back) and installed it in case I did the voltometer test incorrectly. Still no spark.

Before I go on to replace the ECTS, is there something else I should check to get current to my ignition module. Can anyone help me? Should I go ahead and replace the ECTS following Wolfman's instructions? What about the EGR? Does that affect current going to the igniton module? Is it my security system I somehow screwed up?

[ssicarman]

Try putting your old crank sensor back and see what happens. ECTS will not cause a no spark condition. Is the connector for the ignition module plugged in all the way. No bent terminals on it. You should have power in for sure on the pink wire at the ignition module. It gets power from the under hood junction block via the 10 amp EIS fuse. Also make sure the the IGN 4 30 amp maxi fuse is ok. Also verify ground through the black/white wire.

[financialguy]

I actually did try replacing the new crankshaft position sensor with the old one just to be sure and left that step out of my original post. When there was still no spark, I put the new one back in. There is nothing wrong with the conectors to the igntion module. No corrosion or bent connections. I want to try what you said here:

"You should have power in for sure on the pink wire at the ignition module. It gets power from the under hood junction block via the 10 amp EIS fuse. Also make sure the the IGN 4 30 amp maxi fuse is ok. Also verify ground through the black/white wire."

Is the "hood junction block" the fuse box under the hood? I checked all those fuses. Is the "IGN 4 30 amp maxi fuse" in there too? I checked all transparent fuses in both fuse boxes. Replaced one unrelated (interior lights).
Where do I check the ground? The conector plug that goes to the ignition module?

[sierrap615]

yes the UHJB is the fuse box next to the battery, all maxifuses are in the UHJB.

easyist way to check ground is disconnect the connectior then probe with a ohmmeter. not the best way but the easyest way, i would worry over about 3 or 4 ohms.

put the coils on the IGN module without plug wires, see if they will spark tower to tower.

if you have a NOID light see if the injectiors are firing.

[financialguy]

Checked all fuses. All are good.

Checked Crankshaft Position Sensor. It's in all the way and the bolt that holds it on to the block is very tight. I couldn't get my torque wrench in there, but I have tightened it to the point I'm scared of breaking the head of the bolt off.

I checked the ground but I don't know what reading I should get. Actually, I am receiving no reading. I'm not good with a voltometer. Before I learn how to use the voltometer, would the ground be the problem as to why there is no current going to the ignition module? I even used a light hot wire tester. Stuck the needle of the tester into what looked like a red or pink wire, light no go on. I verified the light hot wire tester was working on the car battery, light did go on so tester is working. I went ahead and pierced all the wires going to the module, still no light go on. There is no current going to any of the wires that go to the plug that plugs into the ignition module. And yes, I did make sure the key was turned all the way on, not just to accessory.

Just to be sure, I put the whole thing back on. There is no spark jumping between the terminals.

Where does current that goes to the ignition module come from? Did I fry a circuit or something? Does the car's computer send the current to the module? Is the current supposed to always be on as soon as the key is turned? Is there some relay, not transparent, that I should replace or test?

[ssicarman]

You need to use the ohm or resitance part of a multimeter to check continuity/resistance of a wire or circuit. The reading you should be getting for a continuity check on a wire to ground should be in the area of 1-3 ohms, max 5. Basicly you should get about the same reading as on a piece of wire.
Here is a diagram of the module wiring.


http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/sho...cat/650/page/1

[wolfman]

My vote is for something simple.

Check ALL THE FUSES in BOTH fuse boxes. PULL THEM OUT AND LOOK.
Also check to make SURE that you have power at ALL THE FUSES in the underhood junction box (fuse box) with the key in the "RUN" position.

If they all check out. I vote for a faulty ignition switch or (a very distant second) a faulty PCM.