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Old 09-03-2019, 08:55 PM   #21
SlayZombi
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertGary1 View Post
I think he's trying to stall you. I did my clutch and it worked great the moment I got the car back on the ground. But these types of issues are common with bargain clutch kits.

-Robert
Now perhaps I was not explaining how it operated quite right. You have to push the pedal down 100% to get it to go in smoothly (as in normal operation). Even 99% doesn't seem to get it in gear without some manhandling. Engagement is right off the floor. If you say that yours worked great, what exactly does that entail measurement-wise? Allowing a little bit of "slack" in the depressing of the clutch pedal (As in maybe it will still smoothly go into gear when the pedal is 90% down?) or do you mean it engages higher off the floor than what I'm explaining? The clutch kit I got was by a supposedly reputable brand, and in fact here's the exact one I bought from this exact site here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lutch+kit,1993

It's the Exedy one. And here's the clutch master/slave assembly (Luk). I didn't necessarily cheap out on either, or so I thought.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...assembly,10290

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Old 09-04-2019, 11:55 AM   #22
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

"The issue I am having now is that unless I REALLY fully depress the clutch (no I don't mean just bottom out, I mean pretty much past bottoming out), it wont go into gear. I have to struggle to get it in any gear with the car on (off is fine). It doesn't grind or anything, it just wont get into gear."

Remember that from the beginning of this thread? None of those difficulties should be had right after the clutch is replaced. That's what we mean by "OK" or "fine" or "great"; normal operation with no shifting issues or other complaints.

How far off the floor is the pedal when the clutch should start to engage? In the 1-3" range is what I have found over a wide variety of vehicles/years. It will vary, even on the exact same vehicle over time, but if you have to "bend the firewall" to get it to dis-engage, something is wrong. I have run into a couple of those too...

PS: That Exedy kit does not include the flywheel, are you sure that was replaced and was a good quality?

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Old 09-04-2019, 12:19 PM   #23
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

OP did you compress the 3 little springs on the clutch cover fingers?

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Old 09-04-2019, 09:49 PM   #24
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

Quote:
Originally Posted by billr View Post
"The issue I am having now is that unless I REALLY fully depress the clutch (no I don't mean just bottom out, I mean pretty much past bottoming out), it wont go into gear. I have to struggle to get it in any gear with the car on (off is fine). It doesn't grind or anything, it just wont get into gear."

Remember that from the beginning of this thread? None of those difficulties should be had right after the clutch is replaced. That's what we mean by "OK" or "fine" or "great"; normal operation with no shifting issues or other complaints.

How far off the floor is the pedal when the clutch should start to engage? In the 1-3" range is what I have found over a wide variety of vehicles/years. It will vary, even on the exact same vehicle over time, but if you have to "bend the firewall" to get it to dis-engage, something is wrong. I have run into a couple of those too...

PS: That Exedy kit does not include the flywheel, are you sure that was replaced and was a good quality?
Yes, I remember that from the beginning of the post, I was mentioning that now, after having driven it for more than a couple miles, I noticed that my initial post may have been slightly exaggerated. This fits reality better from a couple posts ago: You have to push the pedal down 100% to get it to go in smoothly (as in normal operation). Even 99% doesn't seem to get it in gear without some manhandling. Engagement is right off the floor. And yeah I brought all of the parts to him myself. I used a Luk flywheel replacement.

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Old 09-04-2019, 09:51 PM   #25
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
OP did you compress the 3 little springs on the clutch cover fingers?
Couldn't tell you. I didn't do it myself, but looking back at it I kind of wish I did.... Time is hard to come by.

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Old 09-04-2019, 09:59 PM   #26
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

I suppose that I got a pretty good consensus that what I'm experiencing is not really good or normal. My final question is if I leave this as is and just make sure to always fully depress the clutch before shifting, will any harm be done? Is this particular situation more of a nuisance than a mechanical emergency?

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Old 09-05-2019, 10:18 AM   #27
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

If you aren't fully disengaging you'll fail faster

...
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2002 Saturn SL2 - RHD

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Old 09-05-2019, 11:29 AM   #28
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

If you stop at a light and put the car into neutral is it difficult to get back into first? Is it difficult to get into first after reversing? If not the clutch is disengaging enough not to drag. Those are the first signs in this clutch that its dragging.

-Robert

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Old 09-05-2019, 11:43 AM   #29
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlayZombi View Post
Couldn't tell you. I didn't do it myself, but looking back at it I kind of wish I did.... Time is hard to come by.
Ifthey were not compressed then it will not disengage properly. Ask the person who did the work as they rarely come out of the box properly preloaded.

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Old 09-05-2019, 12:32 PM   #30
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

I would worry about there being premature failure of the trans syncros, even if they are able to yield smooth shifts right now. My perception is that replacing those syncros is not a trivial or inexpensive task.

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Old 09-05-2019, 01:32 PM   #31
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

Quote:
Originally Posted by billr View Post
I would worry about there being premature failure of the trans syncros, even if they are able to yield smooth shifts right now. My perception is that replacing those syncros is not a trivial or inexpensive task.
There are NO new OEM style replacements. The aftermarket uses brass alloy. If they will sell them out of a kit you are looking at 100+ for a set.

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Old 09-06-2019, 12:44 AM   #32
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

Op, I would attempt one more talk with your mechanic, all of the symptoms you've mentioned kind of kills off the drivability a bit, not to mention the added stress on the drivetrain components.



Quote:
Originally Posted by billr View Post
I would worry about there being premature failure of the trans syncros, even if they are able to yield smooth shifts right now. My perception is that replacing those syncros is not a trivial or inexpensive task.
I would also be worried about the shift cable & shifter bushings ect.

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Old 09-06-2019, 12:52 PM   #33
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

Fortunately it doesn't take much time to R&R a clutch in these cars. I finished mine in an afternoon and would probably be faster the second time. Compared to my Focus which took all day and required I take the transmission out of the car.

-Robert

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Old 09-08-2019, 02:45 AM   #34
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

UPDATE: So I bit the bullet and replaced the master/salve assembly with a new one. No more issues with shifting! Went on a test drive and everything went well except for the 2 times I thought reverse was 5th gear... It's been a long day... Now though, I am getting a popping in the pedal every maybe 1/10 clutch depresses. Any ideas?

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Old 09-08-2019, 11:42 AM   #35
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

I'd lube the clutch pedal pivots.

...
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Old 09-08-2019, 06:07 PM   #36
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

I went through this on my 2001, Mine was the clutch that had a couple of fingers bent and was not fully releasing. It was bent from the factory. After removing I was able to get to see the issue. I got warranty because after removal I was able to show Oriellys part store some of the bent fingers. the first one was an OEM design part, of course since there is no real OEM anymore so its a copy. I got an after market clutch with a different design and installed it and no issues after . I would say remove the clutch and inspect check the clutch. Like some one said before you can have it off and on in afternoon with help.

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Old 09-08-2019, 08:42 PM   #37
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlayZombi View Post
UPDATE: So I bit the bullet and replaced the master/salve assembly with a new one. No more issues with shifting!
What brand was the master/slave hydraulics your mechanic installed that failed and what brand did you get to replace it?

...
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Old 09-08-2019, 09:43 PM   #38
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

The functionality of any of the prebled systems is a function of their storage and shipping history. Many of them are air bound right out of the box, This alone justifies a wire test immediately after assembly and any perceived clutch anomaly.

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Old 09-09-2019, 12:12 AM   #39
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

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Originally Posted by macbox View Post
What brand was the master/slave hydraulics your mechanic installed that failed and what brand did you get to replace it?
I had a LUK assembly that I then replaced with a Duralast assembly. After taking a look at both of them I noticed a few things different. One, the Duralast master and slave cylinder were made with metal, as opposed to the LUK's fully plastic body. Not saying that it's a giveaway that the LUK was lower quality, but metal holds up far longer over time. Two, the LUK also felt a little sloppy and bendy with the tubing, while the Duralast components were more rigid and substantial. Lastly, the arm that connects the pedal to the master cylinder was noticeably thicker than the LUK's, which looked like a tent pole. Guess I ran out of "LUK" with that brand....

Last edited by SlayZombi; 09-09-2019 at 12:22 AM..

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Old 09-09-2019, 12:19 AM   #40
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Default Re: New Clutch, Possible Issues?

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Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
The functionality of any of the prebled systems is a function of their storage and shipping history. Many of them are air bound right out of the box, This alone justifies a wire test immediately after assembly and any perceived clutch anomaly.
Yeah and I should have inspected the quality of what I received more thoroughly. I did not know much about clutch hydraulics until now but looking back there were a couple red flags that would have maybe made me think twice about having the new hydraulic assembly put in.

1. There were a few droplets of brake fluid outside of the reservoir when I opened the box. I figured it might have leaked out of the top hole but now I know that that seems unlikely and if it did leak out, that's not normal.
2. The plastic that held the top of the rod on the slave side was already broken (which I did not even know was a thing until I got the Duralast one with the plastic still attached), leading me to believe that the rod had been extended at some point.
3. Shipping packaging was awful, I bet it was a rough ride for the assembly..

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