1996SL11.9L's 2002 SL1

[1996SL11.9L]

This it to track repairs and hopefully help someone along the way.

I replaced the TPS and t-stat yesterday.

It needs:
some locks fixed. Had a new key cut off key code.
The heat is not hot blowing through vents. It's warm at best
Spark plugs and wires. It's got bosch platinums currently. Don't like how the plug in 4th cylinder came out. It's the cylinder I spot checked.
Swap the New GM upper engine mount from the 1996 to the 2002.

[1996SL11.9L]

Installed ScanGuage.
Topped off tank with 4oz of acetone.
Engine getting up to temp with new Stat.

HEATER still sucks!

Need to transfer speakers, rotors, drums, and top motormount from wrecked 96. Then my buddy gets it. Looks like the accident bent the left lower control arm.

[1996SL11.9L]

This is a link to a online service manual for the 2002 SL1/SC1

http://fbdylvr.thruhere.net:9001/ser...5&booktypeid=1

wish I could figure out how to copy this hole HTML environment to a CD or DVD as an ISO.

Still can't find the rear defroster schematic in all those lists......

[1996SL11.9L]

http://fbdylvr.thruhere.net:9001/servlets/Home

the above link is dead. but this gets me in to the data base....just need to re-select the car every time

[OldNuc]

Try this: HTTrack. Do read the docks as you can download the entire internet if you make a configuration error.

[1996SL11.9L]

Thanks oldnuc I'll look into it tonight at work if trouble calls are light.

I received my 6 dollar like new 2002 owners manual today. I also ordered a 12 dollar Disk with the FSM on it.

Snagged the rear defrost relay from the wreck to see if that fixes my lack of defrost. If not its brake out the test light and meter. Fuse is good and relay operates.

I'm wondering g if the wiring harness and electric lock actuaters from my 96 can be transplanted into my 2002. I'm thinking so.

[OldNuc]

Will take work to do as most wiring is not correct between those 2 cars.

[1996SL11.9L]

Yes. I seen a old thread where someone went through the work of doing the swap. It doesn't sound fun. But it's anoying having to lock or unlock each door.

This image is why the rear defroster doesn't work.

[OldNuc]

There is a kit to repair that and it works.

[1996SL11.9L]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

There is a kit to repair that and it works.

Just got done about a hour ago and saw kits for the repair. Thanks. Permatex or Loctite? Which you prefer.

Also just got done reading ShawnV's thread on replacing heater core. It looks much less painful than my Dodge Ram. I may not even try a flush. Just put a new one in. It's less time than performing flushes only to be dissipointed.

[OldNuc]

Permatex and Loctite are from the same factory with part numbers. I use whichever I can find.

[1996SL11.9L]

I'm digging the fuel milage. 250 and I just broke 1/2 tank. Tomorrow morning on way home from work I'll top off. I'll have around 320 miles on tank.

I'll also stop at dealer and get the tumbler number configuration to rekey some junkyard locks.

It was 22 this morning. My heat was ok. My holding the top hose shut must have partially unblocked whatever was in there. A back blow on the core is next step and may be a flush.

[OldNuc]

You can read the key code off of your existing key. There are 9 positions in the Gen-3 lock and there is a TSB to pull 2 wafers to make it a 7 position lock.

[Signmaster]

Originally Posted by 1996SL11.9L

I'm digging the fuel milage. 250 and I just broke 1/2 tank. Tomorrow morning on way home from work I'll top off. I'll have around 320 miles on tank.

I'll also stop at dealer and get the tumbler number configuration to rekey some junkyard locks.

It was 22 this morning. My heat was ok. My holding the top hose shut must have partially unblocked whatever was in there. A back blow on the core is next step and may be a flush.

It will be interesting to see how your MPG works out with those Bosch plugs still in the car. If it keeps as good as you seem to think it is, it might be worth documenting which plug type it is.


Just a general heads up though.... the gauge on my car is inconsistent every now and then, especially towards the middle of the gauge (1/2 mark area). Movement is usually quicker towards the middle of the gauge, and slower towards the extreme high and low ends.

I had a neighbor with a similar car that freaked out one day when we made a parts run and I had only about 1/8 showing on the tank. On my car that 1/8 usually means there are three or so gallons left in the tank. On his car E was empty, or very close. On my car, my average fill is less than 10 gallons, and I'm nervous with the gauge position when it takes that much.


Are you saving the head or valves off the old car?

[1996SL11.9L]

I'm taking some stuff off the wreck and give my the rest to a friend of mine to help his clapped out 96. He wants the car knowing its a Sl1 instead of a SL2 like his. I'm getting 250 and taking the rotors and new starter and the speakers. He gets the starter out of my 02 so he won't be without one.

He knows about the head. He's part of the circle of friends that cut the intake valves and helped drill oil return holes in the spare 98 engine. Since I got a 02 now I'll need to come up with another head to mod. I guess the 98 bottom end is still usable. I may need to do something with the knock sensor on the 98 block don't remember.

This engine feels strong. Has zero active knock retard. And hopefully zero or maybe minimal oil consumption. Something in my head says the the 02 May have got the oil drain back holes in the Pistons. Unless it's just wishful thinking......

[1996SL11.9L]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

You can read the key code off of your existing key. There are 9 positions in the Gen-3 lock and there is a TSB to pull 2 wafers to make it a 7 position lock.

Thanks again OldNuc. I'm getting the tumbler number layout tomorrow. My friend (talented circle of friends are priceless. Here included) at the local dealership parts counter. He says their key code grinder will give the tumbler number and position On the key all I need to do is find a few locks with keys at the junkyard and I should be good to go. Unless there is a way to remove the barrel without a key any way.

I'll look for the TSB also.

[OldNuc]

Only way to get one out without the key is to drill and then pick out the pieces. You drill out the center of all wafers so they are split into 2 pieces. A good set of dental picks and scalers is indispensable for this trick. If you end up going that route remove the nice shiny front cover, it is hardened to thwart drilling.

[1996SL11.9L]

So my work stretch netted me 42.6mpg. Three of the 5 days were below freezing for morning drive home. One of them being 23f.

[1996SL11.9L]

I talked to the local locksmith and they only wanted 25.00 to rekey the trunk lock I gave them......and they didn't need a key to take it apart, so its done. Tomorrow I hope to do a list of things to it as well as reinstall the trunk lock.

[OldNuc]

Ignition is the only one that must have the key to pull cylinder.