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Old 09-25-2018, 04:06 PM   #21
alordofchaos
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2002 SC2
1998 SL2
Default Re: 2000 SL2 problems

Missed the edit window, but:

bonus: it's usually cheaper to buy 100% antifreeze plus 1 gallon distilled, than it is to buy two gallons of 50/50

Here's an old debate, worth skimming through

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64183

Quote:
If you live in a very cold climate, you can give yourself more freeze protection by using a little more antifreeze, but going beyond 2/3 antifreeze is counterproductive in many ways. The ideal cold climate mix is probably between 55/45 and 60/40 glycol/water, so wolfman's "add a gallon of antifreeze and top off with water" sounds like a good plan.
Note, wolfman was a Saturn tech and you'll see his name on all kinds of How Tos in the early days of this forum.

Oooh, that reminds me, we have a how to library
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=26

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11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 124k DD
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12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles

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Old 09-26-2018, 03:04 PM   #22
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Default Re: 2000 SL2 problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by alordofchaos View Post
edit: pulling the PCM-B fuse from the block under the hood, by the battery, disables both spark and fuel - also clears the code
Which fuse is this? I'm going off this diagram, and cant find a PCM - B fuse?
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File Type: png 2000-saturn-fuse-box-diagram-isvYgKp.png (32.8 KB, 3 views)

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Old 09-26-2018, 03:34 PM   #23
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Default Re: 2000 SL2 problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by alordofchaos View Post
What O2 sensor did you install? I recall some of them did not work well in the Saturns (Bosch universal comes to mind).
Denso or NGK/NTK direct-fit should work - I got mine for $25 off ebay
I got a Walker Products 02 off of Rock Auto. NAPA wanted $132 for the NTK sensor here. I went with the Walker because it was a little more expensive than the NTK and Denso ones, figured it was better. I guess I was wrong?

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Old 09-26-2018, 03:42 PM   #24
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2002 SC2
1998 SL2
Default Re: 2000 SL2 problems

If you remove the cover of the UHJB (underhood junction box), you'll find a diagram of the location of all the fuses and relays for the box.

Compare that to this image - PCM-B marked by red arrow in upper right hand corner
(note for future searchers: this location is for 2000-2002 only).

There should be a white plastic fuse puller, too, to make your life easy (if there isn't one, check the other fusebox - front passenger by left foot kick panel; it will wiggle off)

edit: sorry, no experience with the Walker O2. It looks very different from the denso and NTK pics, though
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11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 124k DD
7/2010 Craigslist white 1997 SC2 project
12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles

Last edited by alordofchaos; 09-26-2018 at 03:49 PM..

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Old 09-26-2018, 06:41 PM   #25
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Default Re: 2000 SL2 problems

Ok. So did a compression test. I say the engine was "warm" as in I drove it like 30-40 minutes before.
Readings were;

Cyl 1: 190 psi
Cyl 2: 185ish psi
Cyl 3: 120 psi
Cyl 4: 190 psi

Blown head gasket?

Last edited by Dw89; 09-26-2018 at 06:48 PM..

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Old 09-26-2018, 08:03 PM   #26
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Default Re: 2000 SL2 problems

hmm. Looking through these forums Im thinking this might be a valve issue. How hard of a fix is that? I am very accustomed to working on small engines (Honda Dirt Bikes mainly) and think I could handle fixing it myself. Is this an expensive fix?

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Old 09-26-2018, 10:06 PM   #27
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Default Re: 2000 SL2 problems

I can't advise much on how "hard" it is, that all depends on your skill and patience. It can be done with the engine in the car, just pulling the head, but access to some things is poor; especially removal of the timing cover.

I did this job some years ago on a '95, I re-used everything I could and only replaced the one valve (~$7) and used a full "valve-grind" gasket kit ( close to $200???). I did grind all the valves and change all stem seals since I had the head off. If you used just a new head gasket (no new stem seals) I suppose you could reduce that $200 considerably.

On the '95 the spring keepers/locks were tricky for me to get to, but I think there are economical tools to make that easier (Lisle?). And, maybe your year, being a different design with the valve train, is easier.

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