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Old 05-22-2005, 01:31 PM   #1
jlevino
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2004 VUE Red Line
1991 SC
Wrench 1991 Engine/Transmission Mount Replacement

While the subject of '92 and newer engine/trans mount replacement has been thoroughly documented, I haven't seen much regarding the "odd-ball" 91 mounting system....

The 1991 S-Series had four mounts plus a "vibration damper"
1) The passenger side engine mount
2) The "front" transmission mount
3) The side transmission mount
4) The "rear" transmission mount.

These mounts are NOT "dogbone" mounts and there is no upper (TAMS) engine mount on the 1991 S-Series. These instructions are for a 1991 SC with an automatic transmission. Please see my gallery for associated pictures.

Passenger Side Engine Mount
1) Jack up passenger side of the car and support with a jack stand -- note: things seem to go easier if both sides are jacked up and supported. Do not crawl under a car supported by a jack alone!
2) Remove the passenger side tire and inner fender splash shields.
3) Support the engine from under the oil pan with a car jack. -- Use a piece of 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan.
4) Remove the engine mount/cradle nut. Odds are you'll need a breaker bar and a can of PB.
5) Remove the four bolts holding the mount to the engine.
6) Remove the mount from the car. Note: You will need to raise the engine by about an inch for the mount stud to clear the cradle.
7) Installation of the new mount is the reverse of removal.

Front Transmission Mount
1) Jack up driver's side of the car and support with a jack stand -- note: things seem to go easier if both sides are jacked up and supported. Do not crawl under a car supported by a jack alone!
2) Remove the air filter, air box and resonator. Be sure to disconnect the sensor wire connected to the resonator!
3) Remove the transmission filter -- to gain access to the bolts holding the mount to the transmission. It may be possible to remove the bolts without removing the filter, but they're torqued pretty tight and it's not worth the risk of denting/puncturing the transmission filter.
4) Remove the lower/radiator splash shield.
5) Use a breaker bar with a long extension to break loose the two nuts holding the mount to the cradle. -- A good soak with PB is also in order.
6) Break loose the two bolts holding the mount to the transmission.
7) Support the transmission with a floor jack -- use a piece of 2x4 between the jack and the transmission. You only need the jack to support the weight of the transmission.
8) Remove the two bolts holding the mount to the transmission.
9) Remove the two nuts holding the mount to the cradle.
10) There is a wire going to the fan that is clipped to the transmisison mount -- carefully free it up.
11) Remove the old mount from the car.
12) Installation is the reverse of removal. Be careful not to pinch the wire going to the fan when installing the new mount!

Driver's Side Transmission Mount
1) Jack up driver's side of the car and support with a jack stand -- note: things seem to go easier if both sides are jacked up and supported. Do not under crawl under a car supported by a jack alone!
2) Remove the driver's side tire and inner fender splash shields.
3) Remove the side mount/cradle nut. Odds are you'll need a breaker bar and and a good PB soak. Note: It's much easier to break loose the cradle bolt before raising the transmission.
4) Break loose the two bolts holding the side mount to the transmission. Again, you'll need a breaker bar and a good PB soak.
5) Support the transmission with a floor jack -- use a piece of 2x4 between the jack and the transmission. You will need to jack up the transmission just enough to get the stud on the clear the cradle. Most likely, if the old mount is shot, it will come out in two pieces.
6) Installation of the new mount is the reverse of removal.

Rear Transmission Mount
This mount usually doesn't fail so I didn't have to replace it.

Vibration Damper
1) Jack up driver's side of the car and support with a jack stand -- note: things seem to go easier if both sides are jacked up and supported. Do not crawl under a car supported by a jack alone!
2) The vibration damper is a large cast iron weight attached to the cradle just before the catalytic converter. Simply unscrew the old damper and bolt on the new one.

Notes
1) Don't bother trying to find any of these mounts at your local Advance/AutoZone/CarQuest/etc. -- They simply do not carry them. You're stuck with either the Saturn parts department or finding them at a junk yard.
2) Usually the side and front transmission mounts are the ones that fail.
3) Good luck trying to find these parts at a junk yard -- IF you can find a 91, these mounts are almost always shot.
4) The rear mount (supposetly) rarely fails.
5) Use 6-point sockets to avoid rounding off the bolts/nuts.
6) Part numbers are in the comments on the pictures in my gallery.
7) The procedures are most likely similar for the SL2 with an automatic transmission.

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Old 08-10-2008, 02:31 PM   #2
geartooth94
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Default Re: 1991 Engine/Transmission Mount Replacement

don't forget the '91 models with manual transmission and DOHC engine. there is an added mount to the passenger's side that Saturn calls the "engine motion restrictor" mount.

it's right under the A/C compressor and bolts to the block over one of the compressor brackets. the other side bolts to the engine cradle and is connected with some heavy-gauge aircraft cable (included in mount purchase). it's about $40.00 from the dealer.

so altogether there are 5 mounts for manual-equipped DOHC '91 models.


...
1996 Dodge Avenger ES: 2.5L V6

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Old 06-22-2012, 09:33 AM   #3
SWargy
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1991 SC
Default Re: 1991 Engine/Transmission Mount Replacement

Here are all the part numbers and a diagram of the motor mounts for the 91. Pay attention the 'usage' column to make sure you are picking the correct engine and transmission type. I do know that mp3 means DOHC and manual transmission, but I do not know the rest.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 91scMotorMounts_rotated.pdf (143.1 KB, 53 views)

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