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Old 10-18-2014, 10:43 PM   #1
majorgoals
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Default 1998 Evap Purge Solenoid

Ok, I know there are several threads relating to this topic. I have diagnosed to a point and just need a confirmation before I move forward to what I fear may be the real problem. I also just need to ask an additional question.

What I have done? I watched Richpins video on how to test the evap purge solenoid and I thought it pretty humorous that my hose between the intake and the purge solenoid had a leak in exactly the same spot shown in his video. Purchased JB Weld, fixed it and tested it as shown in the video and it held 15 psi forever. I plugged the two holes at the top of the manifold, left the hose under pressure and started the car to see if the solenoid would activate to release the pressure. It idled then I accelerated to over 2000rpm for at least a minute and the solenoid would not activate/open. I did this with a cold engine start. I then crawled under the car and removed the electrical connection to test the resistance of the solenoid. The resistance is 26.5 ohms. First question is, what is the resistance supposed to be for the solenoid? Is that weak for a solenoid? If the solenoid is within spec how do I get the solenoid to open so I can confirm that it is functioning? Since the evap canister is supposed to be the next thing in line, is it possible that the evap canister can hold the pressure steady if the solenoid were to open. The pressure never fluctuated at all it stayed steady the whole time testing.

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Old 10-19-2014, 02:15 AM   #2
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Default Re: 1998 Evap Purge Solenoid

Hi Major. I have an 02 WL300 and my evap purge solenoid is mounted to the fill hose by the fuel fill door. I have a connector under the car but never did get an idea of what the resistance value was supposed to be or I could check it somewhat there..
Since the specs have the service schedule at 50k ( and I am at 90k) It's overdue so I'm just going to pull the wheel well and replace it.
Tomorrow actually.

You don't state your mileage but I guess my point is if it's ancient and you plan on keeping the car I'd just replace it, but to each his own.

BTW - where's the Richpins video ?

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Old 10-19-2014, 07:20 AM   #3
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Default Re: 1998 Evap Purge Solenoid

Quote:
Originally Posted by majorgoals View Post
....I then crawled under the car and removed the electrical connection to test the resistance of the solenoid. The resistance is 26.5 ohms. First question is, what is the resistance supposed to be for the solenoid? Is that weak for a solenoid? ....
I have a 1998 solenoid that I removed from the car in '07 when it stuck "open." It measures 0.3 ohms across the pins on the solenoid itself.

The above "removed" solenoid stuck open until I gave it a rap with the wood handle of a hammer.
(What I think happened was:
I filled the tank at 5AM with a slow pump. Then proceeded to take a long right-hand sweeper highway on ramp at double the posted "safe speed." I was never able to coax the tailgaters into a ditch, so it was all for nothing What was the question again?)

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Oil use is 1 ounce per 100 miles with ~230,000 miles on the engine

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Old 10-19-2014, 09:01 AM   #4
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Default Re: 1998 Evap Purge Solenoid

Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpdraft View Post
I have a 1998 solenoid that I removed from the car in '07 when it stuck "open." It measures 0.3 ohms across the pins on the solenoid itself.

The above "removed" solenoid stuck open until I gave it a rap with the wood handle of a hammer.
(What I think happened was:
I filled the tank at 5AM with a slow pump. Then proceeded to take a long right-hand sweeper highway on ramp at double the posted "safe speed." I was never able to coax the tailgaters into a ditch, so it was all for nothing What was the question again?)
nice .

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Old 10-19-2014, 02:56 PM   #5
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Default Re: 1998 Evap Purge Solenoid

majorgoals, if I'm not mistaken, the evap purge solenoid only energizes when driving. The easiest way to test it would be to power it with 12v directly. Was there an error code/check engine light? A damaged hose should have cause an error code for the evap emissions system.

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Old 10-19-2014, 03:26 PM   #6
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Default Re: 1998 Evap Purge Solenoid

The symptom is that I can't pump any gas into the tank at any speed at all because the pressure against the nozzle shuts it off so fast. I saw richpins video on the evap purge solenoid test and decided I would start there. I found a leak exactly where he did and fixed it. When I went to test the solenoid I could not get the solenoid to engage and release the pressure, so I tested for continuity and resistence and measured 26.5 ohms. I just wanted to determine whether it is functional or not before I move back towards testing the evap cannister and the vent solenoid (I am thinking the evap canniser is clogged).

So since I fixed the hose between the intake and the solenoid and the solenoid holds a vacuum and running the car (up on blocks) at above 2000 rpm doesn't engage the solenoid, how do I test definitively whether the solenoid is working? It's a $40 part I would prefer not to replace unless I really need to.

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Old 10-19-2014, 03:29 PM   #7
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Default Re: 1998 Evap Purge Solenoid

OK Dryer I will try hitting it with 12v direct from the battery. I will disconnect the battery first so I don't fry something else or blow a fuse.

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Old 10-19-2014, 09:15 PM   #8
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Default Re: 1998 Evap Purge Solenoid

The evap purge solenoid controls the vacuum line while the tank vent solenoid controls tank ventilation. The purge solenoid is always near the engine. The tank vent valve is next to the filler neck and has a separate vent line to allow venting while refueling. If stuck closed, venting won't take place and the station gas pump stops prematurely from tank vapor pressure backing up thru the filler nozzle. This vent valve is open with ignition/engine off but closed/energized with ign on/engine running. This tank vent valve may be faulty. Try rapping the valve a few times and applying 12v to it to see if it clicks.

Last edited by fdryer; 10-19-2014 at 09:21 PM..

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