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Old 11-11-2006, 04:51 PM   #1
srl1104
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Default Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

I have decided to do a piston soak on my 95 SL2 DOHC. I was wondering if I should use SeaFoam Or MMO? SeaFoam seems like it would work better but I havent heard many people using it.

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Old 11-11-2006, 05:50 PM   #2
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

MMO is fairy water. Use seafoam.

Only reason people use MMO is it's at Walmart next to the spandex pants.

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Old 11-11-2006, 06:59 PM   #3
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

Not sure that was entirely fair. MMO and Seafoam are both good products, I think MMO's a little cheaper. I'd try MMO first, if it didn't produce the results you expected try seafoam.

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Old 11-11-2006, 07:03 PM   #4
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

Alright. I'm about to do a piston soak. Where can I get the seafoam, then, since mmo is fairy water. hahaha.

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Old 11-11-2006, 07:56 PM   #5
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

the fairy water is great if you want your hearse to smoke like the munsters' on halloween but as far as ring unjamming I can say from personal experience it does jack diddly. It's a general purpose placebo that also doesn't unjam sticky lifters... again, personal experience.

Haven't tried seafoam but it can't be any worse.

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Old 11-11-2006, 10:27 PM   #6
travman514
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

Quote:
Originally Posted by eljefino
Only reason people use MMO is it's at Walmart next to the spandex pants.

5 minutes after reading this ,im still laughing!

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Old 11-11-2006, 10:52 PM   #7
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

Quote:
Originally Posted by eljefino
the fairy water is great if you want your hearse to smoke like the munsters' on halloween but as far as ring unjamming I can say from personal experience it does jack diddly. It's a general purpose placebo that also doesn't unjam sticky lifters... again, personal experience.
It's been the "personal experience" of a slew of members here that piston soaking with MMO has considerably reduced oil consumption. I would love to read an explanation of how the placebo effect can be seen on a dipstick.

MMO didn't work for one member. It has worked for plenty of others. Whether that means it works or doesn't work "in general" is left as an exercise....

Quote:
Haven't tried seafoam but it can't be any worse.
You recommend using something you've never tried, over something that has worked for others?

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Old 11-11-2006, 11:52 PM   #8
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

There's one of me, but several s-cars I care or have cared for:

96 SL, 1 qt/1000 mi, MMO did nothing but smoke. Never got worse or better. Sold car.
96 SL, 1 qt/2000 mi, just added oil, sister's car, she cracked the head.
95 SL1, project, constant blue screen... rings fixed the issue. Found a sticky lifter when all was done, MMO didn't fix that. Used practically no oil after fix. Sold.
95 SW1, 1 qt/600 mi, MMO did nothing but smoke. Rings fixed. Now uses nothing.
00 SL1, 1 qt/2500 mi, seems great, leaving that alone.

Am getting pretty good at ring jobs, $250 in materials, two days downtime, and that dollar figure includes a lot of timing chain preventative stuff that isn't really necessary. Pulling sticky springless rings from their grooves, forcefully, has convinced me that no chemical will

1) dissolve the paving tar that holds them in and
2) make the metal happy to be alive and start springing out and scraping cylinder walls again.

Lest someone think I'm biased, I also tried Auto-Rx in the 95 Sw1. At $22 (I got it on sale) it was the most expensive snake oil I've ever bought that also doesn't work.

There is a placebo, watch, someone will put MMO in, report a smoke screen, say they think it's running better, then they'll come back in a month or three and say consumption isn't fixed. I've seen enough MMO data so I'd like to see some more seafoam data.

But really, it's personal choice, and if one doesn't work, try the other, and when all those genies don't come out of their bottles and fix your cars, get your nails dirty and put some new metal in.

NAPA has seafoam and probably pep boys etc too.

Last edited by eljefino; 11-11-2006 at 11:57 PM..

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Old 11-12-2006, 12:03 AM   #9
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

I've done two MMO soaks, and got NO smoke. Indeed, there are a lot of stories here of smokescreens and irate neighbors, but it must be from not expelling the leftover MMO properly. I didn't give a rat's patoot how much or little it smoked; I measured oil consumption and it dropped.

And I've never bought it (or spandex, or anything, ever) at Mall-Wart.

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Old 11-12-2006, 12:08 AM   #10
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?



cheech y chong would be proud

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Old 11-12-2006, 01:05 AM   #11
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

I work at CarQuest and have access to both. I decided to try the Seafoam. Its soaking right now and I'm going to let it soak over night. Hopefully I'll be able to let you know the results tomorrow as soon as i find out if the plug hole that I pulled a stripped out spark plug out of is ok or not. Thanks for all the input guys and i'll let you know how it goes.

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Old 11-12-2006, 02:06 AM   #12
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

They are both the same EXCEPT seafoam is THINNER. Therefore it passes by the rings quicker, and afterall if its in the crank what good is it going to do in the top end? USE MMO it works for the piston soak. If you want to run something through the vacuum, fuel, or oil, use seafoam.

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Old 11-12-2006, 02:52 AM   #13
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

I thought SeaFoam made smoke from what I've read.

I'd try MMO first, then SeaFoam. SeaFoam is stronger, I believe. MMO is good to help oil burning. Although I never did anything to my oil burning 96 SL2, but switched to synthetic which made the problem worse, so I just checked the dipstick and added oil. My 2000 SL2 doesn't burn oil, and I'll kick his ass if he does, LOL.

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Old 11-12-2006, 03:52 AM   #14
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

MMO worked for me.

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Old 11-12-2006, 07:59 AM   #15
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

You know the funny part about this is if the rings are sticking it is because the high VI content (Viscosity Improver) of 5w30 oil is cooking out in rings and causing them to stick. What some wrongly call carbon is actually VI that has been cooked out of oil, Stop using 5w30 in hot weather and change oil at least every 3K miles and you will not never have any stuck ring problems. GM had ton of sticking ring problems in the 80's with 10w40 (they no longer approve it) because of its high VI content and it is funny how they replaced it with another oil that also has a very high VI content and has the potentail to cause the same problem. The Saturns tendacy to run hot because of GM's lsetting the cooling fan engagement temps so high increases the endacy to VI to cook out because when engine is 220 or so it can be 275 to 300 in rings and around 300 is where conventail oil starts to cook out of time. (the more VI in oil, the easier it is to cook it out)

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Old 11-12-2006, 09:17 AM   #16
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

Does that mean you recommend synthetic 5W30 because it won't breakdown like dino does? I think it's best in winter(even better syn 0W30), maybe dino 10W30 in summer?

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Old 11-12-2006, 10:53 AM   #17
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

Quote:
Originally Posted by westwind999
Does that mean you recommend synthetic 5W30 because it won't breakdown like dino does? I think it's best in winter(even better syn 0W30), maybe dino 10W30 in summer?

SYN oil does not have VI in it and will not cook out in rings so I guess that is yes but I still beleive that 5w30 is too light a oil to use in a older motor regardless of type and should be avoided in all but the coldest weather (below zero a lot because 10w30 if fine down to about minus 10F or so)) and I would not consider 0w30 in anycase because if it that darn cold that you need it (like below minus 30F) you need a block/engine heater more than thinner oil. 0w30 might look good on paper in a tight new engine with tight clearances but in a older engines the oil drains off parts and provides less film strength protection at startup before oil pressure it restored than heavier oil does. Funny thing is, GM determined that 5w30 provided a little better lubing at minus 20 on the cam for flat tappets at start up in 80's but has long switched to roller lifters mostly across the board so the advantage is gone and now they keep it because the thinner oil has less shearing resistance for fractionall better MPG at the expense of reduced film strenght because when a oil like 5w30 conv is used , while they high VI content will make the oil pass drip test for viscosity in the 30w range at 200 degrees, it reduces the film strength of oil under shearing loads because VI does not enhance this but rather takes away from it. They try to work around this with extra anitwear additives but this is just more stuff in the oil to cook out of break down with time leaviing less real oil base stock in the process as the extra additives make up a higher percentage of its total volume. .

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Old 11-14-2006, 06:24 PM   #18
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

I have to take issue with this statement:

"0w30 might look good on paper in a tight new engine with tight clearances but in a older engines the oil drains off parts and provides less film strength protection at startup before oil pressure it restored than heavier oil does."

I don't think this is very accurate information. Checking BOBISTHEOILGUY I find this.

'question: 0w-30 has to be watery
Answer: At cold temps, the 0w weight correlates to cold cranking viscosity. At operating temps, the 30 weight is actually close to a 40 weight.
GC is one of the thickest 30 weight oils around.'

So 0W30 can be considered a thick oil!

GC being German Castrol Syntec 0W30 and I think that any syn 0W30 will be very similar to at least a 10W30 at operating temps. So if at operating temps the oil is the same thickness, tight new engine or worn old engine there's no difference.

Having better pumping at startup is a big advantage to get the filter out of bypass and get clean oil into the engine quickly. Any oil gets thicker as it gets colder so the oil shouldn't drain off and should still provide a film on the surface.

Has anyone actually had a problem using 0W30 even in summer?

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Old 11-14-2006, 07:08 PM   #19
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

You can build a cheaper 10w30 that meets applicable API specs than 5w30. They've taken VI shear and all that stuff into account. One can still dump some group I barely refined sludge and "cut" nicer groups II and III to make a dismally viscosity-indexed 10w30.

They could also make a really excellent 10w30 with no vis improvers at all, given a better basestock. But you won't know from the brand name, how it's made... nor can you assume based on analysis of a different weight in the same brand family. You have to trust your favorite brand isn't cheapening out. Allegations are presently brewing that mobil 1 isn't the same hot stuff it used to be.

bobistheoilguy= a great read, I wound up there a few years ago chasing the "best oil" for the 96 SL, my first saturn, which woke me up to "oil issues". I wholeheartedly agree that one should pick the best oil for their price point to keep the rings clean... though it's harder than even 5 years ago to find true sludge.

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Old 11-14-2006, 07:33 PM   #20
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Default Re: Piston Soak: MMO or SeaFoam?

To get back on topic

SRL.. How'd the SeaFoam turn out??

I've got some MMO waiting 'til I get closer to my next oil change.

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