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Old 11-20-2021, 05:54 PM   #1
Hjoken
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2001 SL2
Default 2001 sl2 air pump

I've been trying to find a replacement air pump for my sons sl2.the one one is starting to make quite a bit of noise.
I have been having trouble locating one. Is this due to it being emissions?
I only see one on Ebay and not sure I want to take a chance on a pick a part one but I may have no choice.

Any suggestions?
...
2001 SL2 217,400 miles
1980 Yamaha XS850 19,789 miles
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Old 11-21-2021, 09:16 AM   #2
mattwithcats
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2002 SL2
Default Re: 2001 sl2 air pump

Rock Auto…

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ss+valve,10192
...
2002 Silver SL2, manual, 5th gear swap (.605), 80,000 miles, black badges,
205/60R15 "H" rated tires, 5mm spacers rear...
Pennzoil Maximum Power 0W-30, Champion COS3600...
NGK BKR6E-11 spark plugs
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Old 11-21-2021, 04:45 PM   #3
Hjoken
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2001 SL2
Default Re: 2001 sl2 air pump

Thanks ,but not seeing what I need.
I should clarify I need the secondary air pump.
the OEM number is 21015056 but seem to be running into the no longer available issue.
...
2001 SL2 217,400 miles
1980 Yamaha XS850 19,789 miles
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Old 11-27-2021, 01:06 PM   #4
TomM96
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Default Re: 2001 sl2 air pump

@ Hjoken :

The electric-motor air pumps are pretty reliable; yours
might be OK. Squealing/wheezing/whistling noises oft
indicate the combination valve is not opening, likely due to
vacuum issues (missing).

Just check by removing hose to combo valve, Then run air pump
and check for noise {if still squeals, then YES need renew pump}.
...................

The SAIS system air pump are available thru FLAPS or online, my
local autozone offered me one.
I do NOT see a listing on Rockauto NOW.

I think a junkyard pull would be worth a try (after
demonstrate it functions. The pumps only operate about
one minute after startup of a cold engine... to preheat
the main catalyst beneath the floor pan.

......................

One troubleshooter reported that the nylon vacuum tube that
disappears behind the head, had decayed.
On my 2000 dohc with SAIS, the system had a bad vacuum
hose at diverter, a bad electric ground at air pump, a worn relay
in UHJB, and the Exhaust manifold channel AND mating ports
at the exhaust in the head WERE TOTALLY CLOGGED WITH
CARBONIFEROUS DEPOSITS.

Removing the ExMan can be done without removing the downpipe,
IFF the catcon is A-OK.

If you elect to remove & Clean the exman & head ports:
1.) be sure to have some wire shirt hangers OR gas welding rods
or other firm ferrous wires 1/16" 3/32" diameter ... for poking
into the ExMan ports thru carbon deposits
2.) be sure to order the ExMan gaskets from Victor Reinz or Mahle
-- in order to get the proper "multilayer steel" OEM-style gasket.
The felpro gasket is fine for gen-2 applications, but want OEM
style for the gen-3 with SAIS. Advanced, Rock, PartsGeek stock it.
3.) Try to clean up the Ex port vicinity before re-installing the
ExMan, because all debris will be directed onto the honeycomb
of the precat, possibly degrading/clogging it.

AGAIN, you might need a pump, but maybe mostly need a good bit
of time troubleshooting, and cleaning.
...
Final Suggestion (assuming elect to clean manifold&head):
If you can re-use the studs (for fastening downpipe) FINE!

If not, maybe buy some stainless studs from ARP Advanved Racing
Products http://www.arp-bolts.com/. Under 'Rod bolts, Head studs'
select "accessory studs". you want stainless about 2-3/4" long
before the 'nose'; M8 X 1.25 pitch.
Probably-
M8 X 1.25 X 45mm, broached, 4 pieces 400-8003
OR
M8 X 1.25 X 51mm, broached, 4 pieces 400-8004
These kits cost about $60 on ARP website. I went to a local racing shop
https://www.skspeed.com/ 1075 Rte 109, Lindenhurst, NY 11757
(631) 957-9525 which stocks mostly SAE stuff for large bore V-8s;
the did not have the washers & nuts, but sold me the 3 required
studs for ~ $20-.

If installed with ample Neverseize(nickel) and new nuts, they should
allow maintenance removal of ExMan for car's duration.

My existing studs were too short to accommodate the flange of my new exhaust (and one stud missed some threads), so I had an engine
rebuilder/machinist remove the old studs for $100 (I no longer have a
torch, etc).
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Old 12-01-2021, 08:52 PM   #5
Hjoken
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2001 SL2
Default Re: 2001 sl2 air pump

Thank you for the advice. I will try what you suggested. I did pull the studs from the exhaust manifold and the pipe wasnt to bad with carbon.
...
2001 SL2 217,400 miles
1980 Yamaha XS850 19,789 miles
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Old 12-07-2021, 09:02 PM   #6
TomM96
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Default Re: 2001 sl2 air pump

Need verify if pressure air output from pump is flowing out black rubber hose to combination valve.

Need verify if silver/chrome tube to ExMan from combination valve is clear
(when start engine, does warm air flow thru tube out from ExMan?).

Need find if solenoid valve delivers vacuum to combination valve, thus
opening connection from rubber air hose to shiny metal tube to ExMan.

IFF all that OK, may need to:
1.) remove ExMan (requires removal of AC compressor; disconnect
downpipe to catcon)

2.) clean channel/runner along upper side of ExMan, which distributes AirPump flow to each Ex valve port

3.) check/clean the ports in the head which feed air from the ExMan channel
to each Ex valve port interior. There are dividers of the Ex ports (one side to each of the paired Ex valves); the dividers are Drilled about an inch(1/2"?)
inward from surface, where they intersect with a cross-wise drilling, which
allows fresh air to be injected near each Ex valve....

The vicinity of Ex ports should be Cleaned of debris/deposits, else these will be ejected onto the precat attached to the ExMan ... which might clog that pre-cat.

It would be prudent to put heavy duct tape (or whatever works) along the
bottom out-facing edge of the Head, to prevent throttle-body-cleaner (if
you use a solvent for cleaning) from attacking the Head Gasket!
In my case, I think my head gasket sustained erosive damage from the solvent, possibly necessitating a gasket renewal service job.
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