95 SC2 5sp with 142k on it. Will not start.

[fritcr]

Lots of history here so bear with me. I did a engine swap with the exact same car, year etc. Even same mileage within 2k. Got the donar engine in last night and all hooked back up and it WILL NOT START! I'm pulling my hair out and I don't have much already! Me and my son (12) are working on this together. Both engines rans in their cars but mine had a burnt valve so bad that it missed on #3 cyl. Things I have checked are:
I have fire to each cylinder at the end of the plug wires.
I have fuel pressure at the schreder valve.
I did do a MMO soak on the engine as we were putting it back in because it had not been started for some time. So...the plugs in there are very oily. I just can't think that all 3 plugs would be so fouled out that none of them would fire up and at least run rough. I have been posting on the AF site too am also a member here so I tought I would put it out there and see if anyone has suggestings.
I'm going to try to get some new NGK's on the way home tonight and a stethascope. I was going to see if I can hear the injectors pulsing when we turn it over. Otherwise...I'm stumped!
I had a very frustrated little boy last night after we worked so hard to get it back together and then it would not start.
Rob

[madpogue]

You had MMO in the chambers, with the plugs in place? Yeah, that could soak/disable the plugs. Try a fresh set. Did you remove the plugs and expel the MMO before trying to start the engine?

BTW, this kind of project is an incredible lesson to your son, especially when something like this happens. Even though it's very doable DIY-friendly, it's by NO means a "routine" procedure. Pitfalls, challenges, unexpected turns should not be cause for frustration, but rather fodder for learning, adapting, rising to the challenge, getting to the bottom of a mystery, being resourceful (including coming here), etc. He may seem frustrated now, but the important thing for him is to understand that the paths taken to getting the car running are as important as the goal / destination itself. Much better preparation for handling real-life challenges than the standard-issue rote and chalk-&-talk he's getting in school.

[Canyon]

Pull the fuel rail out just a little bit but leave everything connected to it and put some paper towel under it. Turn the ignition on two clicks so the fuel rail gets pressurized. Check for pressure and check that none of the injectors are leaking. If all is well, have someone crank the engine and see if each of the injectors are spitting out fuel.

Did you check to make sure you have the correct electrical connectors on the appropriate injectors?

If you have fuel, spark, timing and compression it should fire.

[TomM96]

>Did you remove the plugs and expel the MMO before trying to start the engine?
If the answer to this is negative , some 'internal damage' may have been sustained...

(I agree with everything in above madpogue post.)
When i replaced my fuel tank (after draining/cleaning it) it was necessary to repetitively cylcle on the fuel pump and bleed the shrader valve to establish smmoth fuel flow without air ... you should not need that , but given spark , fuel becomes the issue.

[fritcr]

Well it pretty much has to be a fuel problem. I did take the plugs out and spin the engine over several times before instaling them to make sure the mmo was all out. I put a rag over the holes etc. I really "think" it is the injectors but don't know how they work. I will look into it more tonight with a fresh set of plugs. I did cycle the fuel pump several times before trying to start it. If I can't figure anything else out I will try to pull the fuel rail out and see if I can see them spray as you say. Of course I have a full set of them on the other engine that ran too. I'm pretty sure I have all of the wires back on correctly and not crossed up. The injectors looked pretty easy...one of the wires with the 2 injectors has the plug in it going to the MAP?? on the side of the intake behind the P/S pump. I figured that was for those 2 injectors and they were different lengths and the other 2 were also different lengths so I'm pretty sure the plugs are on correctly. One thing I had a little trouble with were some of the wires on the back side of the engine. Mostly had to feel around. I think I got them all back on the correct sensors and plugged in good. Is there a certian one that I should look for if the injectors are not spraying? I had everything else marked except the ones on the back side. I really didn't have a way to mark them up in there. Plus...i didn't what most of that stuff was.
Thanks for everyones help!
Rob

[fritcr]

Got some more info...put the new plugs in. I had to get AC platiums because that was the only ones they had for it. Cranked with nothing. Took the air cleaner snout off at the throttle plate and squirted a bit of Throttle Body Cleaner in it and it hit and ran just a sec then died. Ok...so it is fuel. I got a stethascope and could not hear the injectors clicking at all when turning it over. Pulled plugs and they ok and not wet. I jack the car back up and go over all of my wires and connections. I don't have an ohm meter/voltage meter. My dad swiped it and I never saw it again. (i need to go get one). So, I could not check my injectors etc. Pulled all of the injector wires/clips off and then pushed them back on. Cranked more...nothing...cranked more and it HIT just a bit. So..for long time I cranked and it would hit and die...etc.
NOW the car will run and idle but it is missing on the #1 cyl. I double checked the fire and it is good. Pulled the plug and it is ok and not fouled. I got the stethascope out and started it up...now I can hear clicks on #2 and #4 but NOT #1 or #3??? It is too smooth to be running on only 2 clys I think but who knows. Anyway, dad come by during all of this and says...you know..those goobers up there were sawing boards in that trailer with your engine in it. Do you think they got saw dust in the fuel rail? Well probalby...also, like a dumb @ss I went up and sprayed the engine off at the car wash and didn't cover those tubes. I did put a bag over the intake but not the fuel lines. I guess what I'm saying is...does the injectors pulse if they are clogged with crap? I'm thinking they may be really clogged up? What do you all thing? I have the engine that came out of the car and it is in MY shed covered and clean. I could take the injector rail out of it but I don't know how they come out etc? My haynes manual is no help. Would I have to get new O rings to do this?
Sorry for all of the questions. We are very excited now that we can hear it running. I'm kind of stumped as to why 2 injectors pulse or click but the other 2 do not.
Rob and Dalton

[Canyon]

I had a similar problem on one of my rebuilds. One injector was not firing. I removed the connector and reinstalled it and it started firing.

The fuel rail is easy to remove. Bleed down the fuel pressure and disconnect the fuel lines. Two or three screws hold the rail in. Remove the screws and pull the injectors out with the rail. They are only held in by the o-rings. You can slide the rail out the drivers side without removing anything else except the air hoses to the throttle body. I will say that I have only done this on a non-abs system so it may be different with abs.

There are metal clips that hold the injectors to the fuel rail. DON'T LOOSE THE METAL CLIPS as you will be kicking yourself. You can remove the injectors from the rail and clean the rail. Also look at the injectors to see if they are clean.

Alternatively you can swap an injector with the rail only pulled back a little. You will have to remove the metal clip to remove the injector from the rail. Did I mention to NOT LOOSE THE CLIP?

Depending on the condition of the o-rings you should be able to reuse them. I have reused them on several of my rebuilds without problem. When you put them back in just check to make sure they are not leaking. If one is damaged or cracked borrow one from your other fuel rail.

Get yourself a multimeter from Harbor Freight for $5 and measure the resistance. If you put a high impedance injector (12 ohm) where a low impedance (2 ohm) is required, the high impedance will still fire but will run lean. My guess is that if you put a low impedance injector where a high is required it will probably damage it. I think you should be ok though as I seem to remember that both your engines were 95 vintage. The injectors should measure 2 ohms.