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Old 12-02-2009, 04:24 PM   #1
scalemechanic
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Default Diverter Valve

Somehow this got posted on the Mods. I'll try again, maybe my mistake.

I have a question i don't seem to find an answer for. From richpins video i understand how you check the air pump system. What i don't understand is when he's checking the two small hoses near the diverter valve for vacuum, he doesn't mention what the problem is if you have no vacuum on the second small hose he checks (shortest hose that goes to the diverter valve). Does that mean the diverter valve is no good????

I have a new solenoid/switch, plenty air from the air pump hose and air coming out of the diverter valve to the metal pipe. I've also cleaned the pipe and the opening in the exhaust manifold. I thought i had this problem taken care of but the PO410 popped up again today. Thanks.

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Old 12-02-2009, 05:57 PM   #2
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by scalemechanic View Post
Somehow this got posted on the Mods. I'll try again, maybe my mistake.

I have a question i don't seem to find an answer for. From richpins video i understand how you check the air pump system. What i don't understand is when he's checking the two small hoses near the diverter valve for vacuum, he doesn't mention what the problem is if you have no vacuum on the second small hose he checks (shortest hose that goes to the diverter valve). Does that mean the diverter valve is no good????

I have a new solenoid/switch, plenty air from the air pump hose and air coming out of the diverter valve to the metal pipe. I've also cleaned the pipe and the opening in the exhaust manifold. I thought i had this problem taken care of but the PO410 popped up again today. Thanks.
There is a relatively small channel behind that port in teh exhaust manifold. You can try giving it a goos shot of 100psi air or pull the exhaust manifold back and clean it out. If you have air flow out of the diverter valve all of the parts are working.

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Old 12-02-2009, 06:38 PM   #3
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by scalemechanic View Post

From richpins video i understand how you check the air pump system. What i don't understand is when he's checking the two small hoses near the diverter valve for vacuum, he doesn't mention what the problem is if you have no vacuum on the second small hose he checks
From what you have said it looks like your air pump system is working correctly up to the manifold.That being said let me try to explain about the small hose from the switching solenoid to the diverter valve.Presuming there is vacuum to switching valve and no vacuum present at the end of the small hose from the switching valve that would indicate there is a current problem to the valve or the valve itself.

...
http://www.youtube.com/richpin06a

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Old 12-02-2009, 11:07 PM   #4
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

Thanks OldNuc and richpin06 for your quick responses. As you suggested:

I think i'll try the elecrical solution first as the last time i had a PO410 code it was a blown fuse.

If that doesn't work i'll remove the exhaust manifold and clean out the channel. I've already blasted that opening with as much air pressure as my small compressor could muster.

I've cleared the code and will let you know if and when it pops up again.

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Old 12-11-2009, 04:19 PM   #5
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

Well, the PO410 code came back again today. (^%$#@!*&)

I recently checked all the fuses and they seem ok. My solenoid switch/valve is almost new. I get plenty of air out of the air pump. The one thing i haven't done yet is to pull back the exhaust manifold and clean out the opening/s. I'm approaching this task very wearily as i'm afraid to break any of the nine or so bolts/studs.

It's too cold here this week to work in the driveway. As soon as i get a reasonably nice day i'll spray some PB blaster on the bolts the night before and make my attempt the next day.

Could one of you walk me through the procedure as far as what has to come off, exactly what has to be cleaned out and the sequence and torque when reinstalling the bolts? And any other tips. Thanks, Jim

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Old 12-11-2009, 05:33 PM   #6
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

The channel is in the exhaust manifold flange. Bent screw driver etc. and scrape it out. The ends of the studs are a TORX drive and you can screw the studs out also. The reason I mention this is that you can recycle the manifold gasket if you do not break it. If you break it you have to remove either the manifold or the studs to install a new gasket. You also have to remove the head pipe clamp under the engine. It only has to come back far enough for a good scraping.

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Old 12-13-2009, 04:07 PM   #7
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

OK, i sprayed some PB blaster on the exhaust manifold studs/nuts this afternoon and plan to do this job tommorrow.

Now what i need to know is do i have to remove or move the A/c compressor?
I assume i'll be removing the 9 nuts and sliding the exhaust manifold back while it's riding on the studs. Right?

Do i have to loosen or remove the 3 nuts on the exhaust flange?

What sequence and torque do i use when replacing and tightening the 9 nuts?

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Old 12-13-2009, 04:20 PM   #8
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by scalemechanic View Post
OK, i sprayed some PB blaster on the exhaust manifold studs/nuts this afternoon and plan to do this job tommorrow.

Now what i need to know is do i have to remove or move the A/c compressor?

The bracket is what is usually in the way. Leave the compressor on the bracket and take the bracket loose.


I assume i'll be removing the 9 nuts and sliding the exhaust manifold back while it's riding on the studs. Right?

Thats the idea.

Do i have to loosen or remove the 3 nuts on the exhaust flange?

Not if you can help it. Its a tossup between that and dealing with the clamp holding the pipe to the lower engine/transmission support. The clamp has to be undone and usually you can get it back far enough to get in there and clean out the channel. If it refuses to come back far enough then you get to take the other 3 nuts off.

What sequence and torque do i use when replacing and tightening the 9 nuts?
Torque = 150in-lb or 12.5ft-lb

upper side
6 2 3 7
9 5 1 4 8
lower side

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Old 12-14-2009, 05:27 PM   #9
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

OK, this afternoon i removed the a/c bracket on the manifold side, moved the diverter valve out of the way along with the chrome pipe and after much effort was able to get all nine nuts off and the exhaust manifold moved back.

Since i've never removed a exhaust manifold i wasen't sure what i was looking for as far as cleaning the air passageway/s. It appeared to me there's a channel going left and right to four openings in the block. The channels seemed ok but i had to pick out dirt or grease from the four openings and afterwards i used a compressor to blow some air into each of the four openings. As far as i can see now they now look clean.

But before i put everything back together tommorrow morning i need to know is this the whole job? I just want to be sure i don't need to do anything else while things are apart. Thanks

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Old 12-14-2009, 05:54 PM   #10
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

The inlet pipe, channel and the little ports into the exhaust valves have to be clean. As long as you can blow air through them all and the Chanel is clean it should be good. It does not take much gunk to stop the air flow and then you win the code.

From your description it sounds like you got it done.

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Old 12-15-2009, 11:05 PM   #11
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

OK, i've got it all back together and running. The only part if the reinstallation that i wasen't happy with is the chrome pipe didn't seem to fit as well as before i took everything apart. It seemed a bit off center and not exactly flush at the manifold connection. I loosened things up and tried to shift things a bit but it didn't make any difference. Any ideas?

Again, thanks OldNuc for your help and richpin06 for your earlier suggestion.
I've cleared the code and hopefully it won't show up again in the next couple weeks.

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Old 12-15-2009, 11:08 PM   #12
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

Is the mounting bracketing for the diverter in the correct spot? Those things can be a bit of a pain to get all back together.

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Old 12-16-2009, 10:59 AM   #13
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

Take a look at the one below and see if yours is mounted anything like it.


...
http://www.youtube.com/richpin06a

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Old 12-17-2009, 09:44 PM   #14
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Default Re: Diverter Valve

Yes richpin06, mine is mounted just like the one in your picture. Although i must admit that i first tried to put the flange of the chrome pipe on the outside of the compressor bracket and wondered why it didn't look right or come close to fitting.

My guess is that the a/c compressor shifted a bit during the job when the exhaust manifold got stuck up aganist the compressor and it needed a little prying with a lug wrench to free it.

The next reasonably warm day i get i'll take another look at it. I'll try to install it again with the a/c bracket loose and maybe lean up agauinst the compressor in the opposite direction from when i used it as wedge. I suppose i could also install the chrome pipe flush on the manifold first then install the a/c bracket and diverter valve. If anyone has any other ideas i'm listening. So far the car is running fine and the code hasen't reappeared, but from past experiance i'll wait a couple weeks before i feel the job is done.

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