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Old 10-03-2014, 01:51 PM   #1
hunt4steve
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1993 SC1
Wrench How-To; SC1 Suspension Bushings Replacement

While I was working on the car I noticed that the bushings were pretty much shot. I suppose after 21 years, it was time to replace them.



I ordered a kit from Amazon
Energy Suspension 18.18101R HyperFlex Master Set for Saturn


The first order of business is to spray some Penetrating oil to help with the rusted bolts.


While the rear suspension bolts were soaking, I started work on the front sway bar.
The front sway bar is held in place by the Lower Control Arm, connected to the bottom of the steering knuckle and the Sway Bar brackets mounted to the frame.

The easiest way to remove the Sway Bar is to remove one of the Lower Control Arms from a steering knuckle. If you don't want to unbolt the Lower Control Arm from a Steering Knuckle, you'll need to compress the Sway Bar with some ratchet straps so that the ends of the stabilizer bar will slip out of the Lower Control Arm holes. Remove the Sway Bar brackets to drop the Sway bar down, then (where the red line is) attach some ratchet straps to compress the Sway Bar.
PLEASE READ: Mark the Sway Bar so that you know which side goes UP. When the Sway Bar is removed form the vehicle, it can become difficult to identify which way is up on the Sway Bar, and you may accidentally install it in, upside down. You'll know it's upside down when the brackets don't install correctly. Don't ask how I know this...



HOWEVER, if you plan on replacing the bushings on the inside of the Lower Control Arms, you might as well remove one of the Lower Control Arms.


AND, another NOTE: If these Lower Control Arms are less than a few years old, I would NOT recommend replacing the bushings on the inside of these Lower Control Arms. In order to get these bushings out, you'll need a press (not a Vise) a real press. These bushings are not just pressed in, but they appear to be part of the sleeve. When I pressed out the bushing, I had to cut out the remains of the bushing, as it was stuck to the inside of the sleeve....not easy.

The other bushings for the Lower Control Arm that hold the Sway Bar in place are easy, as well as the Bushings for the Sway Bar brackets. These are easy to replace.






REAR SUSPENSION

Remove the Trailing Arms from the rear knuckles and the body. Again, you will need a "press" to get the Trailing Arm cross-mount removed from the bushing. The rubber bushing is often fused to the the cross-mount, and even after removing, you'll have to cut away the bushing.



Getting the new bushings into the Trailing Arms is not easy either. I used the vise, and even then the darned thing kept slipping around and out. You need to have some patience, and a steady hand on the vise to ensure the bushing will go in straight and keep going in straight. It may slip sideways, but keep going on the vise, and it should straighten out. Ensure you have plenty of the sticky-slick goo around the bushing to provide plenty of slippery-ness. Note, the bushing only goes in one way, and the instructions state this. After you have the bushing in place, you should file down any sharp edges on one side of the Trailing Arm Cross-mount, then you can easily hammer it through the Trailing Arm Bushing. Again, make sure it's slicked up.

Next, you want to remove the bolt that holds the Front and Rear Lateral arms to the knuckles. This bolt WILL be hard to get off, so use liberal amounts of Penetrating oil to assist in the process. When I was working the bolts, I noticed that I could only move the bolt a little bit in each direction. After a bit of time, this directional movement increased until I could get the bolt to spin all the way around 360*. After that, I used a pickle-fork to assist me in getting the long bolt out of the knuckle. Take your time, this bolt most likely will be rusted in place and will take some persuasion to get out.



After the bolt holding the Lateral Arms to the knuckles is removed, you can remove the REAR lateral arms from the crossmember.
After removing the Rear Lateral Arms, be sure to replace the top-mount bolts, just so you don't lose them.


Now that the Rear Lateral Arms are removed, you can loosen the Crossmember so that it can be tilted down, giving you access to the T-55 Star Socket bolt that holds the Front Lateral Arms in place. Remove the front bolt, leaving the Crossmember to rotate and hang from the rear bolt. You don't want to remove the crossmember because there are brake lines attached to it, and it's really not necessary to remove it.



To assist you with keeping the Crossmember in place, you can use the Front Lateral Arms to keep the crossmember tilted by propping them behind the wheel knuckles.



REWARD EXCELLENCE!

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Old 10-03-2014, 01:52 PM   #2
hunt4steve
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1993 SC1
Wrench How-To; SC1 Suspension Bushings Replacement

With the crossmember tilted, you will have unimpeded access to the T-55 Star Socket bolts that hold the Front Lateral Arms to the Crossmember.







Some important notes about the Crossmember and Lateral Links for the rear suspension. The front holes are NOT elongated, therefore they do not allow for movement nor alignment. The rear holes ARE elongated and will allow the Rear Lateral Arms to move in and out, adjusting the Toe-in of the rear tires.



Having a press makes the work much easier






When working with the Front and Rear Lateral Links, be sure that you pay attention to the hole size in the spacers. The SMALL holes connect to the Crossmember, and the LARGE ones connect to the wheel knuckles.



Of course after you get all done with this, you probably should get an alignment done.

Hope this can help you all.

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Old 10-07-2016, 09:33 AM   #3
s.patrick
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Thumbs Up Re: How-To; SC1 Suspension Bushings Replacement

Thank you for this highly detailed & illustrated post! Also, I wanted to add that a Husky T55 Torx 3/8 in. Drive Bit Socket can be found at Home Depot for $1.97 /each

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