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Old 08-13-2020, 07:16 PM   #1
BrandonKastning
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Question 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Afternoon SaturnFans! Auto Geniuses,

Has anyone used a DNJ engine overhaul kit for their GM L81?

I found the gasket kit for 170 something on amazon. However; given the covid stuff; I was concerned regarding supply of parts over time and I went to their website instead of amazon and found a more detailed engine rebuild kit that also includes the gasket kit.

The kit is $390... however; If these parts are critical and I believe they are... once I am in this far with the engine and the gasket overhaul kit. I would literally have my cylinder head blocks on my dining room table for cleaning with all my other parts while I overhaul + clean everything as I go.

The new parts are:

Piston Set, Piston Ring Set, Main Bearings Set, Rod Bearings Set

that come with the DNJ gasket overhaul engine kit that I was originally going to purchase.

The Kit can be viewed here: https://partsology.com/engine-rebuil...-05-3-0l-ek315

I have ALLDATA on the Piston Set, Bearings and Rods. Has anyone actually done this?

If so; could you spare a couple minutes for some questions?

Seems worth it since:

a) I already have the block ripped apart (at the time of doing the engine gasket overhaul kit)
b) If I just have to replace parts that are visible once the cylinder head blocks are removed (I am not certain where these components are exactly just yet without detailed studying.)
c) This would be considered a "true" DIY "engine rebuild" if done correctly?


Thank you!

Best Regards,

Brandon!
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Last edited by BrandonKastning; 08-13-2020 at 07:18 PM. Reason: didn't quite word things correctly
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Old 08-14-2020, 02:33 AM   #2
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

My father's auto parts business had a machine shop and I worked there as a counterman for five years. Our machinist did engine rebuilds and we sold engine kits. In general, anytime the block components were removed it required a resurfaced crankshaft and a re-boring of the block - both of which would go to an oversize above the original crankshaft surface and piston/ring diameter. The typical first oversize began at .010" (or "10" over), for crankshaft bearings and pistons with rings. Second and third oversizes were .020" and .030". We never installed standard size pistons and rings, nor standard sized crankshaft bearings (mains and conn. rods).

If you are re-using the engine block then you should have it re-bored. A machinist would take measurements with a micrometer and refer you to ordering the correct oversize parts. With regard to the crankshaft, the necessary oversize bearings would be determined by the amount of resurfacing required to bring the piece to perfect roundness. Occasionally, one might need a second or third oversize of bearings or pistons/rings, but that is rare. Additionally, it is possible to have differing oversizes on both the main and rod surfaces of the crankshaft. In other instances, not all oversizes are available. In conclusion, it would be best if a machinist were to lay the crankshaft and install the pistons/rings. I would highly recommend against a novice doing this type of work.

It could be asked, "why can I not use standard sized main and rod bearings or pistons and rings?" The problem is that neither the bore nor bearing surfaces are wearing with perfect evenness all of the time. Even the slightest deviation from true roundness must be corrected or the rebuild will FAIL. One could be installing perfectly round pistons and rings into bores that are just slightly out of round, or installing perfectly round standard bearings onto imperfectly round surfaces resulting in major problems with uneven wear and leading to premature engine failure. (A word to the wise is sufficient.)

Since the correction requires enlarging a bore, or reducing a bearing surface the only corrective adjustment is to use oversized pistons/rings and oversized crankshaft bearings (mains and rods) For clarification: main bearings are those which attach the crankshaft to the engine block and have a larger diameter; "rods" are for the bearings which are used to attach the connecting rods to the crankshaft and have a smaller diameter.
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Old 08-14-2020, 10:47 AM   #3
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

I may have told this story before. I had a 1969 Grande Mustang when I was young, a school teacher ran a red light and t-boned me. The frame was destroyed and the engine was undamaged. I had the car towed to our house and over a period of weeks, I removed every part of the engine and eventually the block. A very good friend lifted the block out with me. Then, I found a 1070 Mustang that had a bad engine. I remove it the same way, piece by piece until the engine bay was empty.

Then, I started to reassemble the 1969 engine. I didn't mark any parts only grouped them. I reassembled the engine piece by piece in a cold Wisconsin garage. No micrometer, nothing marked... I just hand fit all parts to the best fit. When I got done, the engine started, ran like sheet, eventually got it tuned up and it ran excellent for a few months. It was snappy and fast as can be, but eventually it start puking oil out the tail pipe.

Moral of the story... you can rebuild your engine, but it will only last for a short time. So you decide if it is worth it.
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Old 09-13-2020, 12:07 AM   #4
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Wrench Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierrot View Post
My father's auto parts business had a machine shop and I worked there as a counterman for five years. Our machinist did engine rebuilds and we sold engine kits. In general, anytime the block components were removed it required a resurfaced crankshaft and a re-boring of the block - both of which would go to an oversize above the original crankshaft surface and piston/ring diameter. The typical first oversize began at .010" (or "10" over), for crankshaft bearings and pistons with rings. Second and third oversizes were .020" and .030". We never installed standard size pistons and rings, nor standard sized crankshaft bearings (mains and conn. rods).

If you are re-using the engine block then you should have it re-bored. A machinist would take measurements with a micrometer and refer you to ordering the correct oversize parts. With regard to the crankshaft, the necessary oversize bearings would be determined by the amount of resurfacing required to bring the piece to perfect roundness. Occasionally, one might need a second or third oversize of bearings or pistons/rings, but that is rare. Additionally, it is possible to have differing oversizes on both the main and rod surfaces of the crankshaft. In other instances, not all oversizes are available. In conclusion, it would be best if a machinist were to lay the crankshaft and install the pistons/rings. I would highly recommend against a novice doing this type of work.

It could be asked, "why can I not use standard sized main and rod bearings or pistons and rings?" The problem is that neither the bore nor bearing surfaces are wearing with perfect evenness all of the time. Even the slightest deviation from true roundness must be corrected or the rebuild will FAIL. One could be installing perfectly round pistons and rings into bores that are just slightly out of round, or installing perfectly round standard bearings onto imperfectly round surfaces resulting in major problems with uneven wear and leading to premature engine failure. (A word to the wise is sufficient.)

Since the correction requires enlarging a bore, or reducing a bearing surface the only corrective adjustment is to use oversized pistons/rings and oversized crankshaft bearings (mains and rods) For clarification: main bearings are those which attach the crankshaft to the engine block and have a larger diameter; "rods" are for the bearings which are used to attach the connecting rods to the crankshaft and have a smaller diameter.
pierrot,

Thank you for sharing your story as a counterman at your Father's machine shop. I also appreciate you going into great detail explaining this very process and the critical information pertaining to the crankshaft boring and piston / rings / seals / sizes, etc.

Regarding the Rebuild Kit that I found; The distributor says they will accommodate for oversized pistons, bearings and seals, I believe.

Without having the luxury of taking it the engine block to a machinist; what sizes would you recommend for overage on this specific engine? (I am looking at using 5 gallon buckets to clean the cylinder heads when I get that far down and plastic scrapers because I cannot find the GM Original Parts for the head gasket cleaner -- just some added information). -- I also read that I had to purchase new head bolts which are $50 for the set. Apparently you cannot re-use them. I wonder if there are more unknown's that I will come against during this "rebuild" or as I call this; "true fix" to my engine leaks since ownership became mine.

After I go beyond that; regarding everything we are discussing on this thread. I will be unfortunately/fortunately, upon success doing this as an *extreme* novice who has gotten this far.

I appreciate all the tips and pointers each and everyone has given to me. I sent the Distributor (DNJ) of the kit a message asking them what the typical oversizing measurements are for a 1st time engine rebuild on a 2001 Saturn L300 3.0L V6 / (GM L81 / 56 Degree Engine) and haven't received a response just yet.

If anyone has knowledge on the sizes I should order for 1st time rebuild, let me know, thanks!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-13-2020, 12:09 AM   #5
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
I may have told this story before. I had a 1969 Grande Mustang when I was young, a school teacher ran a red light and t-boned me. The frame was destroyed and the engine was undamaged. I had the car towed to our house and over a period of weeks, I removed every part of the engine and eventually the block. A very good friend lifted the block out with me. Then, I found a 1070 Mustang that had a bad engine. I remove it the same way, piece by piece until the engine bay was empty.

Then, I started to reassemble the 1969 engine. I didn't mark any parts only grouped them. I reassembled the engine piece by piece in a cold Wisconsin garage. No micrometer, nothing marked... I just hand fit all parts to the best fit. When I got done, the engine started, ran like sheet, eventually got it tuned up and it ran excellent for a few months. It was snappy and fast as can be, but eventually it start puking oil out the tail pipe.

Moral of the story... you can rebuild your engine, but it will only last for a short time. So you decide if it is worth it.
Rj,

1969 Mustang, must have been a fun learning experience. Shame to read that oil came out the tail pipe. Did you ever find out what part of the rebuild failed that resulted in oil coming out of the tail pipe? Or did you scrap it at that point?

~ Brandon
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Old 09-13-2020, 12:24 AM   #6
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

It's so long ago, I can't really remember. I suspect the rings failed and then a few connecting rod bearings as it started to knock. I drove it very hard and had a lot of fun. I went to school in Madison, WI and I remember the car was stolen. A few days later I saw it on the road stuck in front of us in traffic, a friend and I got out and ran after them, but they got away as we approached. Three days later the car was found by the police two blocks away. I went and got it back. I think the front end eventually gave out and I ended up junking it. The engine kept running, but it used a lot of oil. All and all... a very fun car! That's all I can remember.
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Old 09-13-2020, 01:33 AM   #7
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonKastning View Post
pierrot,

Thank you for sharing your story as a counterman at your Father's machine shop. I also appreciate you going into great detail explaining this very process and the critical information pertaining to the crankshaft boring and piston / rings / seals / sizes, etc.
You're welcome. I wish to be extremely clear regarding this subject. Nowhere in my post did I mention "seals." They had nothing to do with my subject. I want you to be utterly clear that there are no such things as "over-size" seals relating to engine rebuilding. (On rare occasions a front crankshaft sealing surface can become "grooved" over time and require the use of a "sleeve" to cover the damaged area [and I believe that this kit comes with a slightly enlarged seal]. In my ten years as a counterman, however, I may have sold one such kit.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonKastning View Post
Regarding the Rebuild Kit that I found; The distributor says they will accommodate for oversized pistons, bearings and seals, I believe.
That's to be expected as it's normal for an engine kit supplier to provide these items with over sizes as available. Now, with regard to the crankshaft one can purchase a resurfaced crankshaft where the oversize will already be known and the correct bearing size can be ordered accordingly. However, if a resurfaced crankshaft is not available then you would have to resurface yours.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonKastning View Post
Without having the luxury of taking it the engine block to a machinist; what sizes would you recommend for overage on this specific engine?
Frankly, this question worries me. As I'd mentioned in my previous post, oversizes can only be determined by a competent machinist who is actually measuring the components involved. Absolutely no one can tell you what over-size you need unless the boring and surfacing work is being performed. Please, please, please understand the following: if you simply reinstall your crank without it being resurfaced and install pistons and rings into the engine without it having been bored then you've just set new parts into an engine with worn spaces. What's worse is that the work will be wasted due to premature failure since you're forced to use old parts which are no longer perfectly "true" with parts which are "true;" namely, standard sized pistons and/or rings along with standard sized crankshaft bearings. If you cannot have the block re-bored and the crankshaft resurfaced then ABANDON THIS PROJECT NOW.

If DNJ's sales people have any ethics at all then they should not sell you anything. I cannot imagine that they would even guaranty their parts against any type of failure in this situation.

I will make no further comments related to this engine rebuild unless it's going to be done correctly. Have you considered the cost of doing this wrongly? How much money and time are you willing to spend to do a second rebuild? I understand that you need to do this for yourself as inexpensively as possible. I have similar needs in that way, but certain issues occasionally mitigate against us doing things at the lowest possible cost. This situation is definitely one of them. If this repair goes forward without the proper work being done before hand I believe that you will rue the day that you decided to go cheaply on such a serious repair.
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Old 09-13-2020, 09:58 PM   #8
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Dizzy Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierrot View Post
You're welcome. I wish to be extremely clear regarding this subject. Nowhere in my post did I mention "seals." They had nothing to do with my subject. I want you to be utterly clear that there are no such things as "over-size" seals relating to engine rebuilding. (On rare occasions a front crankshaft sealing surface can become "grooved" over time and require the use of a "sleeve" to cover the damaged area [and I believe that this kit comes with a slightly enlarged seal]. In my ten years as a counterman, however, I may have sold one such kit.)

That's to be expected as it's normal for an engine kit supplier to provide these items with over sizes as available. Now, with regard to the crankshaft one can purchase a resurfaced crankshaft where the oversize will already be known and the correct bearing size can be ordered accordingly. However, if a resurfaced crankshaft is not available then you would have to resurface yours.

Frankly, this question worries me. As I'd mentioned in my previous post, oversizes can only be determined by a competent machinist who is actually measuring the components involved. Absolutely no one can tell you what over-size you need unless the boring and surfacing work is being performed. Please, please, please understand the following: if you simply reinstall your crank without it being resurfaced and install pistons and rings into the engine without it having been bored then you've just set new parts into an engine with worn spaces. What's worse is that the work will be wasted due to premature failure since you're forced to use old parts which are no longer perfectly "true" with parts which are "true;" namely, standard sized pistons and/or rings along with standard sized crankshaft bearings. If you cannot have the block re-bored and the crankshaft resurfaced then ABANDON THIS PROJECT NOW.

If DNJ's sales people have any ethics at all then they should not sell you anything. I cannot imagine that they would even guaranty their parts against any type of failure in this situation.

I will make no further comments related to this engine rebuild unless it's going to be done correctly. Have you considered the cost of doing this wrongly? How much money and time are you willing to spend to do a second rebuild? I understand that you need to do this for yourself as inexpensively as possible. I have similar needs in that way, but certain issues occasionally mitigate against us doing things at the lowest possible cost. This situation is definitely one of them. If this repair goes forward without the proper work being done before hand I believe that you will rue the day that you decided to go cheaply on such a serious repair.
pierrot,

Thank you for the details and after I posted that I thought about it and considered when you said "words to the wise".

I believe the best bet for me would be to do only the gasket sealings and the timing belt + seals.

Thanks for all the expert advise and caution!

I agree with you that precision is not something to play games with. However; I have to stop the oil from leaking. I will do a head gasket repair as this is possible without damaging the internals (as long as I do not screw up the timing belt) is my understanding.

If I am mistaken; please let me know!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-13-2020, 10:22 PM   #9
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Just an FYI. I have already acquired proper Digital Torque Wrench and the other professional tools needed to complete a head gasket change without dangers.

I *am* listening to you experts.
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Old 09-13-2020, 11:28 PM   #10
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

You have no idea how relieved I am to know that you're not going to perform any work on the engine block. While I'm glad to know that you're taking our advice what was most important was your willingness to reconsider things. If any of us lack the ability to reexamine our ideas or positions about any type of subject we're in danger of making poor decisions. (I include myself in the preceding statement - I know my own weaknesses.)

With regard to cylinder head work and replacing the timing belt, you are correct. If the cylinder heads have their respective parts in proper alignment then there should be no danger of doing harm to the pistons or the valves with a correct installation of the timing belt.
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Last edited by pierrot; 09-13-2020 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 09-13-2020, 11:43 PM   #11
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierrot View Post
You have no idea how relieved I am to know that you're not going to perform any work on the engine block. While I'm glad to know that you're taking our advice what was most important was your willingness to reconsider things. If any of us lack the ability to reexamine our ideas or positions about any type of subject we're in danger of making poor decisions. (I include myself in the preceding statement - I know my own weaknesses.)

With regard to cylinder head work and replacing the timing belt, you are correct. If the cylinder heads have their respective parts in proper alignment then there should be no danger of doing harm to the pistons or the valves with a correct installation of the timing belt.
pierrot,

I am glad you are put at ease. I didn't want you to feel as if you were giving advice to somebody who was going to create a disaster out of it. Indeed the internal engine components are well above my pay grade, sir.

Looking forward to completing the cyclinder head work & replacing the timing belt. I really hope it drives the stake through the oil/combustion leak.

Thanks again!

~ Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-13-2020, 11:51 PM   #12
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Leaking oil is directly related to the PCV module and excess blow-by. If there is excessive blow-by, oil will leak from nearly every old gasket. Even new gaskets will eventually leak if the blow-by is not handled properly. Crankcase pressure must be allowed to vent. Even with a properly functioning PCV system module... the crankcase pressure can be excessive and blow oil out most gaskets. As engines age this is common. You might be putting the cart before the horse taking the engine apart before performing tests to determine if the oil is leaking from bad gaskets or if it is literally being blown out via excessive crankcase pressure.
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Old 09-14-2020, 12:39 AM   #13
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
Leaking oil is directly related to the PCV module and excess blow-by. If there is excessive blow-by, oil will leak from nearly every old gasket. Even new gaskets will eventually leak if the blow-by is not handled properly. Crankcase pressure must be allowed to vent. Even with a properly functioning PCV system module... the crankcase pressure can be excessive and blow oil out most gaskets. As engines age this is common. You might be putting the cart before the horse taking the engine apart before performing tests to determine if the oil is leaking from bad gaskets or if it is literally being blown out via excessive crankcase pressure.
Rj,

Glad you mentioned that! Since I replaced the upper plenum + hoses + PCV housing crankcase; I haven't had, not 1 oil leak on the drivers side of the engine. (Which is great because it was prior from all the oil I had to clean up).

The pressure seems better also. I feel this is why oil starts to come out and smoke when I rev the engine to 3-4K RPM's. Idling is just fine, no smoke. The pressure (I can even feel the engine want to jump; lots of power now).

I am hoping it's a good sign. And perhaps your right; maybe I finally get to the head gaskets and repair them and they end up blowing later. If I can get some life out of this and one hell of an experience. I'll chalk it up as a learning experience and new life skills.

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-14-2020, 09:19 AM   #14
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

I have to ask because I am confused. You keep saying you're going to pull the heads and replace the head gaskets. Oils leaks are normally only from the valve cover gaskets. Heads don't leak oil.

Therefore, why are you pulling the heads? Heads have nothing to do with oil leaks! Did you discover bad compression in a cylinder, coolant on a plug or in the oil? I've never heard of any symptom(s) that would indicate you need to pull the heads.

Are you perhaps using the name "heads" and you are really talking about valve covers?
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Old 09-14-2020, 09:45 AM   #15
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
I have to ask because I am confused. You keep saying you're going to pull the heads and replace the head gaskets. Oils leaks are normally only from the valve cover gaskets. Heads don't leak oil.

Therefore, why are you pulling the heads? Heads have nothing to do with oil leaks! Did you discover bad compression in a cylinder, coolant on a plug or in the oil? I've never heard of any symptom(s) that would indicate you need to pull the heads.

Are you perhaps using the name "heads" and you are really talking about valve covers?
Rj,

Good question! The head gasket leak is causing the white smoke plumes, I believe. If the heads have nothing to do with leaks, why are there gaskets to protect? The valve covers will also be replaced because the kit I am purchasing has head gaskets, valve covers, seals, etc. (The whole engine seal pack!).

I really am talking about the Cylinder Block Heads being removed and cleaned up and re-applying the gasket's with new head mounting bolts and proper sealant. I will end up having to re-do my PVC crankcase work again; however that's fine!

When putting it back together; I will also get the seals inside the timing belt enclosure. I seen the video on the L81 Engine on YouTube where the man teaches you how to do a timing belt replacement on our engine with a water pump removal and using this special tool kit for the Camshaft and Crankshaft seal replacement (which comes in my kit). And the tool does it professionally so it's not done with screws or something. It's close to $100. I have been very patient to do my research and make sure I get the right parts.

I wanted to get the same tools as the man had in the video. He does a great job on the repair. The Video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFWtovLxE4Y

Regarding the valve covers you are talking about; I don't know if that comes prior to the timing belt or after removal / disassembly without looking at my Factory Service Manual or ALLDATA pdfs.

All these corrections *should* stop the oil leak on the passenger side. (It's directly under the knock sensor #2). I am almost positive it's knock sensor #2. It's the wire harnass sticking out when you pull the tire or look down in the engine bay on the passengers side)... directly under this harnass/wire/sensor is where the smoke is coming out of now since the PCV crankcase housing repair. (Which fixed enough to centralize all the leak out this 1 last spot).

It's not even lots of oil; just smoke every 30 seconds or so. I tried counting as the engine was cycling. I just don't know what I was counting or what for. Just seeing how consistent the smoke coming out was.

Morning Rj!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Last edited by BrandonKastning; 09-14-2020 at 09:51 AM. Reason: youtube video add and some added info
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Old 09-14-2020, 10:55 AM   #16
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

In that video you provided, the guy is locking the timing belt against the crankshaft pulley and then proceeds to pull against it as he threads the belt clockwise instead of counter clockwise as it should be done. There is always more than one way to do a job, but this is obviously wrong! You want to timing belt to be locked and tight against the crankshaft pulley as you thread the belt. This will insure the belt is aligned properly. Plus his mirror he showed of the mark was off by one tooth. Not good.

The sensor you are describing is the Oil Sending Unit. I thought mine was leaking and I changed it, but it was not the leak. My leak was from excessive crankcase pressure and heat. I thought I had to replace the oil pan gasket, but then I realized there is no gasket on the oil pan. After I fixed the massive vacuum leak and previously the PCV module... the leak stopped. Perhaps it had something to do with the massive amount of heat that was developing on the Bank 2 head from a huge vacuum leak i.e. lean condition... as the amount of fuel was pegged wide open. The exhaust on this bank was getting nearly red hot and you you see and smell oil burning like crazy. Somehow this excess heat caused oil to readily leak on to the exhaust pipe directly under the front end of the engine. There was WAY too much fuel being dumped into Bank 2 resulting in massive heating of all components.

Last edited by Rj 2000 LS2; 09-14-2020 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 09-14-2020, 12:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
In that video you provided, the guy is locking the timing belt against the crankshaft pulley and then proceeds to pull against it as he threads the belt clockwise instead of counter clockwise as it should be done. There is always more than one way to do a job, but this is obviously wrong! You want to timing belt to be locked and tight against the crankshaft pulley as you thread the belt. This will insure the belt is aligned properly. Plus his mirror he showed of the mark was off by one tooth. Not good.

The sensor you are describing is the Oil Sending Unit. I thought mine was leaking and I changed it, but it was not the leak. My leak was from excessive crankcase pressure and heat. I thought I had to replace the oil pan gasket, but then I realized there is no gasket on the oil pan. After I fixed the massive vacuum leak and previously the PCV module... the leak stopped. Perhaps it had something to do with the massive amount of heat that was developing on the Bank 2 head from a huge vacuum leak i.e. lean condition... as the amount of fuel was pegged wide open. The exhaust on this bank was getting nearly red hot and you you see and smell oil burning like crazy. Somehow this excess heat caused oil to readily leak on to the exhaust pipe directly under the front end of the engine. There was WAY too much fuel being dumped into Bank 2 resulting in massive heating of all components.
Rj,

Good eye catching that wrong turning. Duly noted! I will make sure to reference my Factory Service Manual while studying the video to ensure I don't make the same mistake that he did. Thank you for pointing that out!

Indeed there is always more than one way to skin a cat!

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
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Old 09-14-2020, 10:16 PM   #18
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

Rj 2000 LS2's point regarding the replacement of the head gasket to correct an oil leak is quite correct and I should've also caught that, but I didn't. The head gasket seals the water passages between the block and heads as well as sealing off the compression and combustion action between them. It doesn't seal off oil in the way that a valve cover gasket or oil pan gasket would as there is no engine oil near to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonKastning View Post
The head gasket leak is causing the white smoke plumes, I believe. If the heads have nothing to do with leaks, why are there gaskets to protect?
Do these plumes appear whenever the car is being driven, or only for a short time when the engine is cold? Has anyone ever followed your car while it was being driven to observe this?
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Old 09-14-2020, 10:55 PM   #19
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

If you do head gaskets you should also have the heads checked to see if they warped. If the engine was over heated at some time in its life there is a chance they are, when you put new gaskets under them they will not seal correctly.
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Old 09-15-2020, 12:34 AM   #20
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - DNJ Engine Overhaul Kit - Anyone?

^Agreed! If the cylinder heads are removed they need to be checked for any warpage. This is a "must" - no exceptions whatsoever. If warpage is beyond tolerance - yes, there is an acceptable level of such be it ever so small - then resurfacing is required. I suspect that if a machinist finds one head warped then the other will be resurfaced as well, but I may be wrong about the need to resurface both heads. Nevertheless, a good machinist will know what should be done.
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