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Old 01-07-2006, 10:43 PM   #1
GearGuy
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2006 VUE 3.5L
Default Engine Break In Methods

Those of you that have tried the HARD engine break-in method, how do you feel about the results.

Same for those that chose to break it in gently.

How's your gas mileage?

Here's some links about different methods:
NTNOA
MototuneUSA
Aircooled.net
Firebladers
Bishop's Performance

...
2006 Vue 3.5L FWD

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Old 01-07-2006, 11:34 PM   #2
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2002 VUE 2.2L
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Shifted at 3K RPM every shift, unless merging or really needing to get moving, at which point I shifted at 4K. I did this for about the first 1K miles on the VUE. So far, in 61K, I have had no oil consumption thus far, average about 24 MPG per tank in mixed city/highway driving stretching to 27-29 on highway jaunts. At about 5,000 miles I got a significant increase in performance, and even with the miles on it now, it rips through the revs like butter.
~D.J.~

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Old 01-09-2006, 06:15 PM   #3
bigc791
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1994 SL1
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Once warmed up beat on it all you want. Only time you have to worry about them is when they are cold even when they are old.
Carmen

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Old 01-09-2006, 10:14 PM   #4
2004NJVue
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2004 VUE 3.5L
1996 SL2
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigc791
Once warmed up beat on it all you want. Only time you have to worry about them is when they are cold even when they are old.
Carmen

I agree. I actually laid rubber when I pulled out of the dealer parking lot...not on purpose either. I was too used to my old 4 bangers I guess. I've had no troubles here. I tend to beat on my cars quite often though. My dealer only recomended to not tow anything for XXX miles, not to slam on your breakes for XXX miles, and not to go the same speed for too long for XXX miles. I dont remember the value of the miles...sorry. The car had 5 miles on it when I tool ownership and now has almost 45,000 miles. It has been 13 months.

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Old 01-10-2006, 09:33 PM   #5
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2003 VUE 2.2L
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Drove it from day one.... no problems here.
Mobil 1 / filter with the OLS.
24 mpg daily 60/40 highway/ surface street. Always run atleast 10- 15 over on interstate.
27 mpg Highway locked at 72 no hard starts
I have a spoiler and push bar with lights that increase wind drag too.

Dave

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Old 01-10-2006, 09:55 PM   #6
avro206
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Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

I err on the side of caution. Can't hurt to be gentle. 900kms (about 600 miles)
Had it 5000rpm once recently and never more then half throttle.

I am now, slowly pushing it a little harder. At 1500kms (900 miles) I will let it rip

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Old 01-10-2006, 11:06 PM   #7
05vueblue
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2000 SL1
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

I have been running mine hard from day one. I usually sell before warranty out so I dont worry about it. My VUE performs well and seems to be getting better, over 15k no problems (except sway bar rattles I need to get fixed).

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Old 01-10-2006, 11:11 PM   #8
dugg67
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2002 VUE 2.2L
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Engines are run and "broken in" during the assembly process. A car is ready to be driven normally from the moment it rolls off of the assembly line. Buy it and drive it. Not much more complicated than that.

Cold start makes no difference either. Here is an excert of a camshaft break in procedure when a new or rebuild engine is first started. Notice it says to bring the revs up immediately, not wait 'til operating temperature.

Quote:
• Do Not Idle the Engine- As soon as the engine starts, raise the rpm to 2,000 rpm. You should also constantly vary the RPM between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM for the first 20 minutes. This is the only way to insure proper lubrication during this critical period since the camshaft to lifter contact area relies almost exclusively on oil splash from the crank and connecting rods. Make sure that you run the engine for a full 20 minutes using this procedure. It will seem like forever, but it is one of the most important steps to insure long, dependable performance.
From here.

Engine break in is done within the first 30 minutes of running. All of this is done before a car ever reaches a car lot. Once the cam and rings are set, rev it all ya want.

Main thing to remember is to not be stupid, redlining an engine isn't good for it whether it is new or has some miles on it.

dugg67

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Old 01-12-2006, 01:24 AM   #9
Tommy D
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2006 VUE 3.5L
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Basically the only reason for a break in period is to let the gears in the trans and rear to get to know each other. You want to vary the speeds and trips as to vary the heat cycles so that the gears set a good wear pattern.

The days of going slow to seat the rings are long gone. However, a magnet attached to the oil filter or a magnetic drain plug is never a bad idea.

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Old 01-12-2006, 08:41 AM   #10
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2002 VUE 2.2L
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy D
Basically the only reason for a break in period is to let the gears in the trans and rear to get to know each other. You want to vary the speeds and trips as to vary the heat cycles so that the gears set a good wear pattern.

The days of going slow to seat the rings are long gone. However, a magnet attached to the oil filter or a magnetic drain plug is never a bad idea.
Gears will set a wear pattern within a couple of miles of normal driving. Most cars have this much mileage on them when purchased. As for the magnets, can't hurt, but not a necessay item either. If it were, then it would already be there. Some cars do come equipped with a magnetic drain plug. As for the filter, the element inside of it is much more efficient in removing metal particulate than a magnet, that's what it is built for. Anything small enough to get by the filter won't hurt anything anyway. Besides, most metal found in the oil will probably be aluminum which is not attracted to a magnet anyway.


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Old 01-12-2006, 12:08 PM   #11
GearGuy
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2006 VUE 3.5L
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Quote:
Originally Posted by dugg67
From here.
VERY nice checklist. How close do you think they come to this checklist off the assembly line? I'm sure it's not nearly as specific but I wonder what their procedure is.

Overall it sounds like the "critical" point of engine break in is over and done with at the factory or in transit. So I guess there's not much left to do once you get it but drive it as you like.

After picking my Vue up I did start pretty light. I was "feeling" the vehicle out. Getting used to everything it does and trying VERY hard to detect anything that might possibly be wrong. The 3.5L V6 with the Robo-Auto tranny and the built in grade logic put a different feel into driving it. I'd say around 25 miles later I was starting to push it.

As for the magnet, I've used drain plugs with magnets built in. They definitely pick up a bit of material. I've also had magnets on steel pans right next to the drain plug. Pulling the magnet off just before letting the oil fly. No way to check if it really did anything though. I had an automatic that had a magnet installed in the tranny pan, with a formed lip in the pan to keep it in place. Can't remember what vehicle it was though.

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Old 01-12-2006, 09:07 PM   #12
Bill Murray
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1997 SC1
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Mr gasket is pretty out of date
"do not use synthetic oil for break-in"
All the Vettes, Ion Redlines, Viper, Porsche, etc are factory fill with Mobil 1.

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Old 01-13-2006, 02:25 AM   #13
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Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Well, cold start in the scenario described above was probably at room temp.

Don't go starting your car below freezing, and driving away before your idle even settles. I usually wait around 30 seconds.

Also, redlining a car can't be that bad... especially with an automatic. The cars designed operating range is all the way until the redline. As long as you don't hold it up there for an extended period of time (stick shift), or start bumping off the rev limiter like theres no tomorrow, theres nothing wrong with it.

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Old 01-14-2006, 12:12 AM   #14
Tommy D
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2006 VUE 3.5L
Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Quote:
Originally Posted by dugg67
Gears will set a wear pattern within a couple of miles of normal driving. Most cars have this much mileage on them when purchased.

dugg67
Maybe I did not make my post clear. For instance setting the cruise and running for long periods at a constant speed in a new car is bad. The gears need to develop a uniform wear pattern, and that requires lots of changing speeds/loads for the first few hundred miles. Also, hard accelerations and hard stops should be avoided for the first few hundred miles or it is possible to chip a gear that hasn't fully seated in. (not to mention brake pads/rotors)

But "stay under 55MPH", forget about it. You won't hurt it by going faster (within reason, try to avoid the temptation to see if it'll really do 130 MPH). Just try to avoid abrupt speed changes, and definitely avoid constant speed driving. Easy up and easy down is the ticket until the tranny and rear end gears have had a good opportunity to get acquainted with each other.

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Old 01-14-2006, 11:11 PM   #15
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Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

I've been buying new Vehicles since 1977 and have always just drove them the way I would normally drive them. I am not easy on my vehicles, but I don't abuse them either. You can drive a brand new car any way you want to, and if you don't do crazy stuff that will cause you to get stopped by the police, you probably aren't hurting the engine. Never had any type of internal mechanical engine failure, and never had an oil-burner.

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Old 01-16-2006, 11:45 PM   #16
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Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Quote:
Originally Posted by vue-vtec
and never had an oil-burner.
Believe it or not, all engines burn oil. It is normal. The cylinder walls are lubricated due to some oil getting by the rings. Nature of the beast. Generally this is a small amount and usually isn't noticed due to contaminants that build in the oil over time. This is the main reason for regular oil and filter changes, not because of the durability of the oil, but because of the contaminants in it. 1 qt every 1000 miles is the general limit of consumption most manufacturers use for a new car. Anything greater is considered excessive oil consumption, anything at of below that is normal.

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Old 01-17-2006, 06:14 AM   #17
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Default Re: Engine Break In Methods

Quote:
Originally Posted by dugg67
Believe it or not, all engines burn oil. It is normal. The cylinder walls are lubricated due to some oil getting by the rings. Nature of the beast. Generally this is a small amount and usually isn't noticed due to contaminants that build in the oil over time. This is the main reason for regular oil and filter changes, not because of the durability of the oil, but because of the contaminants in it. 1 qt every 1000 miles is the general limit of consumption most manufacturers use for a new car. Anything greater is considered excessive oil consumption, anything at of below that is normal.

dugg67
When I say "oil burner" I mean excessive consumption. Had a 5.0 Ford that used a quart every 1500 miles. That was considered normal for a hi-perf engine, and it was not an "oil burner" in my estimation. Never had any other car that used more than 1/2 quart between oil changes. That is more typical in my opinion.

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