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Old 04-29-2012, 03:54 PM   #1
Astra La Vista!
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2008 Astra XR
Wrench How To - Timing Belt Replacement

This is a detailed account of how to change out the timing belt on our Saturn Astras. Most of this info can be found in the Haynes manual that covers the European version of our cars. I've included torque values, tools needed, part numbers, and copious amounts of pictures. This procedure should be similar to the Z18XER engines found in the Chevrolet Cruze LS and Sonic.

**********

Special tools needed:

E10, E16, E20 (female) Torx sockets
T20, T27, T55 (male) Torx sockets
6mm Allen key or socket
12-point 19mm (hex) socket - standard 6-point WILL NOT WORK!

Parts needed:

Timing Belt - Gates T338 or GM 93180815 (OEM belt will be considerably more expensive)
Crank Pulley Bolt - since this is an actual "torque-to-yield" bolt, I chose to spend the $5 on an OEM replacement (GM# 24447224) - BOLT WAS BACK-ORDERED ONE WEEK SO YOU WILL HAVE TO PLAN THIS JOB WELL IN ADVANCE!

Optional Parts:

Serpentine Belt (with A/C) - Gates K050609 (I didn't bother sourcing an OEM belt, nor did I bother checking for the part number for a non-A/C engine)
Serpentine Belt Tensioner Bolt - possibly also "torque-to-yield" (text in Haynes manual not conclusive), but I chose to reuse and use red Loctite instead
Middle Timing Belt Cover - will be brittle during removal and tabs may break (cover is still held in place by other means)

**********

First, park the car on level ground -- ideally a CLEAN concrete slab like a carport or garage floor. Sweep the area before hand, to make it easier to find dropped screws, etc. Loosen off the five lugbolts on the right front wheel, raise up the corner of the car with a hydraulic floor jack, and support it with a jackstand (you will need the jack elsewhere later on). Remove the wheel and set it aside.

You will see a formed plastic splash guard ahead of the wheel well arch liner. It is held in place with two plastic pushpins and four T20 Torx screws. The pushpins are of the two-piece design with the center core expanding the outer part. You have to push the core inward to allow the outer part to contract so that you can remove it, and you may push it all the way through and out the other side (where it will probably land on the inside of the splash guard or onto the ground). You will almost certainly knock loose a bunch of sand/dirt/gravel so a quick sweep of the broom afterwards is probably a good idea before continuing. I find using something like an old egg carton perfect for keeping various small parts like screws, etc. separate from each other.

Remove the small silver T27 Torx screw securing the rear mount for the air cleaner assembly, loosen off one of the band clamps at the MAF sensor, and remove the entire assembly from the car. This might be a good time to open it up and examine the air filter.

The serpentine belt tensioner on our Astras features a black E16 Torx bolt securing it to the engine, as well as a large silver "12-point bolt" above it and a lock pin hole below. You will need a 12-point 19mm hex socket or box end wrench here to turn this bolt to relieve the tension, and a small drill bit or Allen key to insert into the lock pin hole to hold it there.

*** A 6-POINT SOCKET is USELESS HERE -- IT MUST BE A 12-POINT! ***

Rotate the tensioner counter-clockwise as far as you can and then slip in your drill bit or Allen key to lock it in place. DRAW OUT THE BELT ROUTING TO REMIND YOU HOW TO REINSTALL IT AFTERWARDS. Remove the serpentine belt. You will need to remove the serpentine belt tensioner later on, so it is advisable to release the tension now so that you aren't handling a potential explosive device later on.

Remove the two E10 Torx screws holding the upper timing belt cover in place and set it aside.

Using an E20 Torx socket, rotate the crank pulley clockwise to position the engine on TDC. You need to line up the timing marks on the crank pulley and cam sprockets as shown. The marks on the crank sprockets should be lined up with each other, almost forming a line between the centerlines of the large center camshaft bolts -- I say "almost" because they didn't form a perfect line on my own car, nor do they line up perfectly in the picture in my Haynes (page 2C-5). BECAUSE OF THIS, I WOULD STRONGLY ADVISE YOU TO TAKE A FEW PICTURES OF ALL THREE TIMING MARKS AS A BACK-UP. Ideally, you want to put everything back together exactly how it came apart.

The next step involves removing the E20 crank pulley bolt so that you can remove the pulley. This can be done in one of two ways:

1) Use an assistant to stand on the brake pedal while the transmission is in gear to prevent the front wheels from turning as you apply torque, or
2) Insert a piece of metal like an Allen key or drill bit into an access slot near the lower front engine mount to jam the flywheel ring gear (see pics).

Remove the E20 crank pulley bolt and then simply remove the crank pulley (it will just fall off).

Remove the four E10 Torx screws holding the lower timing belt cover in place and set it aside. The fourth screw is located just above the serpentine belt tensioner and is visible from above. Behind it you will see additional timing marks on the lower gear and the oil pump housing.

Remove the single E16 Torx bolt holding the serpentine belt tensioner to the engine and set it aside. I HAVE CONFLICTING INFORMATION ON WHETHER OR NOT THIS IS A "TORQUE-TO-YIELD" BOLT. THE TORQUE SPECS IN MY HAYNES SAYS YES, BUT THE TEXT IN THE REMOVAL SECTION DOESN'T MENTION HAVING TO REPLACE IT WITH A NEW ONE AFTERWARDS (like it does with the crank pulley bolt). PLUS, MINE WAS HELD IN PLACE WITH FACTORY LOCTITE. I CHOSE TO REUSE THIS BOLT AFTER CLEANING UP THE THREADS AND APPLYING FRESH RED LOCKTITE AND TORQUING TO SPECS.

The right side engine mount (silver) is bolted to the body using three short E16 Torx bolts, and to a bracket (black) that is then bolted to the engine using three long E16 Torx bolts. YOU CAN LEAVE THE MOUNT AND BRACKET JOINED DURING REMOVAL. Loosen off all six bolts and then place your floor jack underneath the cast aluminum "oil pan" of the engine (my jack is padded so you might want to place a piece of soft wood in between). Gently raise the jack until you start to see the engine mount move upwards away from the body. With the mount no longer supporting the weight of the engine, remove the six bolts and set the mount assembly aside.

The middle timing belt cover is held in place by a single plastic tab at each end. THE PLASTIC TABS WILL BE VERY BRITTLE DUE TO BEING EXPOSED TO YEARS OF ENGINE HEAT AND THEY MIGHT BREAK IF YOU AREN'T CAREFUL (which is what happened to me). THE COVER CAN'T COME COMPLETELY LOOSE DURING NORMAL OPERATION BECAUSE IT IS SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE BLACK ENGINE MOUNT BRACKET AND THE ENGINE ITSELF, AND IT IS FURTHER HELD IN PLACE BY THE UPPER TIMING BELT COVER. THE SOLUTION IS TO EITHER SOURCE OUT A REPLACEMENT COVER BEFORE STARTING OR USE A DAB OF SILICONE BETWEEN THE BRACKET AND THE COVER TO KEEP IT FROM POSSIBLY VIBRATING WHEN REINSTALLED.

With all three timing belt covers removed, you will now have full access to the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner is located on your left (when viewed from the side of the engine bay) while the timing belt idler pulley is located on the right. Below the Torx bolt on the timing belt tensioner is a hex-shaped hole. Using a 6mm Allen key, rotate the tensioner clockwise and slip off the belt. MY HAYNES WASN'T CRYSTAL CLEAR AT THIS POINT, AND DIDN'T HAVE ANY PICTURES OF THIS CRUCIAL STEP! WTF!?! There is supposed to be a slot "on the inner edge of the tensioner body" where you can insert a small drill bit to keep the tensioner locked in place, but without pictures it was difficult to understand exactly what the author meant. The tension isn't that powerful and I was able to manage to remove the old belt without locking it in place.

Install the new timing belt, making sure that the camshafts don't move. If they do, simply reposition the sprockets to align the timing marks (you'll need a T55 Torx socket for this). An extra pair of hands might help here to keep the torque off of the tensioner while you reinstall the new timing belt, but I managed by myself. Release the torque from the tensioner and temporarily reinstall the crank pulley and bolt. IF YOU USED A PIECE OF METAL TO LOCK THE FLYWHEEL RING GEAR, REMOVE IT NOW! Rotate the crankshaft 720 degrees and recheck all of the timing marks -- REFERRING TO THOSE PICTURES YOU TOOK -- and start over if something is amiss.

Once you are confident that the timing marks all line up, lock the flywheel in place again (or have your assistant stand on the brakes) and remove the crank pulley.

Reassembly is basically the reverse of the above:

1) middle timing cover
2) engine mount (26 lb-ft for body bolts, 41 lb-ft for engine bolts)
3) serpentine belt tensioner (torque to 37 lb-ft)
4) lower timing cover

At this point, carefully reinstall the crank pulley -- ENSURING THAT THE PULLEY IS CENTERED ON THE END OF THE CRANK while you hand-tighten the new bolt & washer with your other hand. With the flywheel still locked (or your assistant still standing on the brakes), torque the pulley bolt to 70 lb-ft. Next, mark the position of the head of the bolt in relation to the washer, and then further tighten the pulley bolt 45 degrees. THIS SEEMS SOMEWHAT INACCURATE, WHICH IS WHY I BELIEVE USING A NEW TORQUE-TO-YIELD BOLT IS MANDATORY HERE. Unlock the flywheel afterwards.

Continue with the reassembly as follows:

5) upper timing cover
6) serpentine belt (you will need to lock the tensioner in place again)
7) air cleaner assembly
8) splash shield
9) wheel (81 lb-ft)

...
"That's a Hruck Bugbear, manufactured in Eastern Europe in the eighties and imported to the States. People mock it as a poor man's Yugo. I consider it the pinnacle of Cold War Balkan engineering."

Last edited by Astra La Vista!; 04-29-2012 at 04:07 PM..

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Old 04-29-2012, 03:55 PM   #2
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2008 Astra XR
Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

Pics...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1 - Splash Guard.jpg (141.4 KB, 718 views)
File Type: jpg 2 - Lower Pulley.jpg (141.2 KB, 755 views)
File Type: jpg 3 - Air Cleaner Out.jpg (138.9 KB, 668 views)
File Type: jpg 4 - Serpentine Belt Tensioner.jpg (140.8 KB, 745 views)
File Type: jpg 5 - Crank Pulley Timing Marks.jpg (142.0 KB, 799 views)

...
"That's a Hruck Bugbear, manufactured in Eastern Europe in the eighties and imported to the States. People mock it as a poor man's Yugo. I consider it the pinnacle of Cold War Balkan engineering."

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Old 04-29-2012, 03:57 PM   #3
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2008 Astra XR
Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

More pics...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 6 - Flywheel Lock Position.jpg (145.0 KB, 730 views)
File Type: jpg 7 - Flywheel Lock - Close Up.jpg (144.6 KB, 685 views)
File Type: jpg 8 - Crank Pulley Off.jpg (145.1 KB, 647 views)
File Type: jpg 9 - Crank Pulley and Bolt.jpg (146.9 KB, 590 views)
File Type: jpg 10 - Cam Pulley Timing Marks.jpg (138.0 KB, 757 views)

...
"That's a Hruck Bugbear, manufactured in Eastern Europe in the eighties and imported to the States. People mock it as a poor man's Yugo. I consider it the pinnacle of Cold War Balkan engineering."

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Old 04-29-2012, 03:58 PM   #4
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

And even more pics...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 11 - Timing Belt Exposed (Lower).jpg (141.1 KB, 681 views)
File Type: jpg 12 - Timing Belt Exposed (Upper).jpg (142.8 KB, 697 views)
File Type: jpg 13 - Right Engine Mount.jpg (137.8 KB, 521 views)
File Type: jpg 14 - Upper & Middle Covers and Serpentine Belt Tensioner.jpg (139.2 KB, 531 views)
File Type: jpg 15 - Timing Belt Tensioner.jpg (141.6 KB, 688 views)

...
"That's a Hruck Bugbear, manufactured in Eastern Europe in the eighties and imported to the States. People mock it as a poor man's Yugo. I consider it the pinnacle of Cold War Balkan engineering."

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Old 04-29-2012, 08:45 PM   #5
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

Great post. Thanks for taking the time. How many miles on your car?

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Old 04-29-2012, 08:51 PM   #6
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2008 Astra XR
Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

Thanks for the great guide; the process seems deceptively simple. How many hours would you say you had into the whole process?

...
2008 Astra XR3
2012 Silverado Crew Cab

Last edited by FooBag; 04-29-2012 at 09:03 PM..

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Old 04-30-2012, 10:29 AM   #7
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

137,000 (mostly highway) kilometres -- so around 85,000 miles. The Haynes actually recommends every 36,000 miles, which is way too frequent in my opinion (most cars are closer to twice that). Both the old timing belt and serpentine belt appeared fine, with no signs of cracking or abrasion, but I replaced both nonetheless.

The job was about as simple as doing a timing belt (which I've done several of) on an engine that I've never done one on before -- if that makes sense. Took around 4.5 HRs from start to finish, and that includes making notes, taking pictures, and a few other distractions along the way. The biggest "obstacle" was trying to figure out what the author meant when he was referring to how to take the strain off of the timing belt tensioner, because as I said, there were no pictures at all of this step in my Haynes for our Z18XER engines and the verbal description didn't exactly match what my eyes were showing me. If I had to do it all over again, I'm confident that I could do it in maybe half that time.

My biggest concern with anyone attempting this job is the potential lack of owning two needed tools: a 12-point 19mm hex socket (some people might own only a 6-point) and the harder-to-find E20 Torx socket (most sets only go up to E16). I was OK with the former but didn't realize that I was missing an E20 until the day before I was to do the job (when the new crank bolt came in off of back-order), but I was lucky to find an autoparts store open early on a Saturday morning that actually stocked the complete assortment in the store. The whole job would have stalled before I even started if the socket had to be ordered in from their warehouse.


PS: This procedure may or may not be exactly the same for a car equipped with an automatic transmission -- especially the step involving how to "lock" the flywheel ring gear to prevent engine rotation. If you have an auto and are considering doing your own timing belt, I would advise jumping ahead to this step to see if it is even possible after jacking up the car but before taking the wheel off.

...
"That's a Hruck Bugbear, manufactured in Eastern Europe in the eighties and imported to the States. People mock it as a poor man's Yugo. I consider it the pinnacle of Cold War Balkan engineering."

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Old 04-30-2012, 11:17 AM   #8
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Astra La Vista!
PS: This procedure may or may not be exactly the same for a car equipped with an automatic transmission -- especially the step involving how to "lock" the flywheel ring gear to prevent engine rotation. If you have an auto and are considering doing your own timing belt, I would advise jumping ahead to this step to see if it is even possible after jacking up the car but before taking the wheel off.
I was thinking about this aspect myself last night. My first thought is that I think the Park pin should prevent the crank from rotating, but I am not 100% certain. If not, there should be a cover that would allow access to the flexplate which can generally be locked in place with a vice grip.

...
2008 Astra XR3
2012 Silverado Crew Cab

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Old 05-01-2012, 06:45 PM   #9
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

Excellent write up. Thanks for taking the time to document your work.

...
08 Astra XR/SRi 3Door, Star Silver, 18" Penta Alloys, Irmscher Boot Spoiler
16" SRi Alloys, Kumho I'Zen Winter Tyres, Yakima roof rack, Rockymounts Pitchfork,
Eonon D5107, Blue LED conversion

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Old 05-11-2012, 04:05 PM   #10
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

Hi. I am going to be doing this this Summer. Just curious.... I watched a video on YouTube and that mechanic changed the water pump when he changed the belt. Did you consider doing the water pump 2 or was that not something you felt needed to be done at the time?
Regards...

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Old 05-12-2012, 12:18 PM   #11
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlesnake View Post
Hi. I am going to be doing this this Summer. Just curious.... I watched a video on YouTube and that mechanic changed the water pump when he changed the belt. Did you consider doing the water pump 2 or was that not something you felt needed to be done at the time?
Regards...
Good question. When I used to work the counter, this was a common sell, but one that was usually a good idea for customers planning on keeping their vehicle for a while.

Many engines are designed in that the timing belt must be removed in order to get at the water pump. Thankfully, our Z18XER engines are not like this. If you open the hood of your car and look at the serpentine belt routing, the exposed water pump is clearly visible at the top near the front (ie: it is driven by the serpentine belt, not the timing belt). All you have to do is:

1) Remove air cleaner assembly
2) Slacken off water pump pulley bolts
3) Remove serpentine belt
4) Remove water pump pulley
5) Drain cooling system
6) Remove water pump

Torque specs for the pulley bolts are 15 lb-ft, while the water pump bolts are only 6 lb-ft.

...
"That's a Hruck Bugbear, manufactured in Eastern Europe in the eighties and imported to the States. People mock it as a poor man's Yugo. I consider it the pinnacle of Cold War Balkan engineering."

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Old 05-12-2012, 01:40 PM   #12
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

UPDATE:

When I set about to replace my timing belt, I also planned to check my valve clearances while I had everything apart. Unfortunately, I was running a little short and knew that I wouldn't have the time. However, I did just recently pop off the valve cover and checked them, and they were all within specs at 138,000 kms (well, one was just barely outside specs, but I wasn't about to go through the whole complicated procedure for just one).

However, it did open my eyes to some new ideas regarding timing belt replacement, especially when it comes to keeping the cam sprockets aligned while installing the new belt. The additional procedure might add an extra half hour to the total job, but would allow you to check your valves at the same time if you give yourself enough time to do both. I will be starting a new thread covering this procedure later on, but below is a couple of additional steps that you might want to consider when replacing just the timing belt.

Additional steps to make replacing your timing belt a bit easier:

Pop out the plastic "Ecotec" cover running down the center of the valve cover. Disconnect the electrical connector to the coil pack assembly and remove the two T40 Torx screws holding the pack in place. Remove and set aside.

Pop the plastic split loom wiring harness out of the groove in the cover near the pulley end of the engine, as well as the rigid plastic wiring loom along the firewall side and the other end (they are held in place with three tabs along the back, and two along the side). You shouldn't have to actually "disconnect" anything, as I found room to work the valve cover out in between.

On the firewall side is a rebreather hose that locks to the valve cover via a U-shaped spring steel clip. Simply slide the clip carefully upwards and then pull the hose away from the valve cover.

Remove the valve cover. There should be four E10 female Torx bolts along each side, one at each end, and one more hidden under the coil pack, for a total of eleven. They are captive bolts, meaning that you don't have to completely remove them from the valve cover. They might rattle but they will all stay secure as you lift the cover up and out of the way. Place a clean rag over top of the exposed cams to reduce the chances of dust or dirt getting in while you continue.

Examine the valve cover gasket for nicks or cuts. It is made of neoprene and can be reused, unlike rubber or cork. I could not find an aftermarket listing for this gasket and the OEM one is a little pricey (GM P/N: 55354237... around $50). The gasket wasn't in stock at my dealer but it was locally available from the GM warehouse in town (one day away). In the near future, it might even be a dealer-stocked item considering our engines are now coming in the base Sonics and Cruzes. While I did end up buying one, I didn't actually use it (save it for another time, I guess). The gasket itself is easy enough to replace down the road, so if reusing the old one results in a leak, it's a simple enough swap. If reusing the old gasket, you'll want to clean it (and the valve cover and cylinder head) thoroughly before reassembly, and then recheck for leaks after a few hundred miles/kilometres.

With the engine set at TDC, look at the ends of both camshafts opposite the cam sprockets. You will see two large machined slots (like the head of a screw) and they should line up almost perfectly with each other. GM actually has a factory service tool to fit into these two slots to keep the cams in line with each other while replacing the sprockets themselves, but I found that locking the cams in this position prior to swapping the timing belt could possibly alleviate any hassle one might have in keeping the sprocket timing marks lined up. This "tool" is easily fabricated from some scrap steel or aluminum approximately 4.5mm or 3/16" thick. It should be 25mm or 1" wide, and 230mm or 9" long, with two notches filed in it to clear the arched cam sensor lobes. See pictures below for a better idea.

Rotate the intake cam (the one closest to the firewall) if necessary until the cam slot is lined up with the surface of the head and then slip your new cam lock tool into the slotted end of the cam. You can rotate the cams using a T55 Torx in the cam (be careful though, as the large bolts are rather shallow and the tool won't fit in very deep - possibly resulting in slipping). The other end of the tool may or may not slide in perfectly to the slotted end of the exhaust cam, so you might need to rotate the other cam ever-so-slightly until the tool locks both cams together. Just make sure the crankshaft timing marks stay aligned when done.

Tada! That makes things a lot easier and it only took maybe ten minutes to remove the valve cover and maybe half an hour to fabricate the tool. You can even do most of the tool fabrication before hand (cutting the metal to the proper width and length), and then locate your notches once the cams are exposed. Just make sure you cut your notches deep enough so that you fully engage the tool down to the bottom of each cam slot. Also, deburr your new "tool" to make sure any shavings don't end up inside your engine.

Pics should be self-explanatory, with the possible exception of the 1/8" aluminum stock I first used to make the tool. I initially used the thinner stock as a sort of prototype (took pics) and then remade it from 3/16" stock (didn't take pics). The valve cover gasket is
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Valve Cover and Ignition Coil Pack.jpg (145.5 KB, 376 views)
File Type: jpg Valve Cover Gasket.jpg (146.6 KB, 305 views)
File Type: jpg Cam TDC Grooves.jpg (146.7 KB, 520 views)
File Type: jpg Cam Lock Tool.jpg (144.8 KB, 486 views)
File Type: jpg Cams Locked At TDC.jpg (143.3 KB, 568 views)

...
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:30 AM   #13
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Astra La Vista! View Post
Pics should be self-explanatory, with the possible exception of the 1/8" aluminum stock I first used to make the tool. I initially used the thinner stock as a sort of prototype (took pics) and then remade it from 3/16" stock (didn't take pics). The valve cover gasket is
Brilliant writeup. Was there more to this last paragraph though?

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Old 05-13-2012, 01:10 PM   #14
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

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Brilliant writeup. Was there more to this last paragraph though?
Oops.

"The valve cover gasket is shown as it would appear when viewed from the front of the car, with the firewall side towards the top. The spark plug o-rings are integral to the gasket."

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Old 05-28-2012, 01:28 PM   #15
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

excellent information. i thought, when using torque-to-yield, that u went 1/4 turn more.

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Old 05-28-2012, 02:58 PM   #16
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

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excellent information. i thought, when using torque-to-yield, that u went 1/4 turn more.
Correct (as mentioned in the final paragraph of my initial post). My Haynes actually states torque to 70 lb-ft as "step one", torque an additional 30 degrees as "step two", and a further 15 degrees as "step three". These numbers came from the torque chart at the beginning of the chapter. The funny thing is, the actual write-up doesn't mention any steps at all, so I just wrote it as an additional 45 degrees. If you were doing multiple bolts like head bolts, etc. and you are working through a pattern, steps would make sense. This is just a single bolt.

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Old 09-23-2012, 03:33 AM   #17
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

Just used this how to on my 2007 Vauxhall Vectra ( wife has an Astra )

Many thanks - couldn't find a how to on our UK Vectra forum.

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Old 03-18-2014, 07:21 PM   #18
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

hello
im going to change my timing belt on my 08 astra 1.8L in the next few weeks. After reading this thread and preparing the project(thank you guys for the info), I bought the torx sockets and a Engine Timing Tool Cam Belt Flywheel Tools. I was wondering if anybody is interested in buying the tools off me?

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Old 03-20-2014, 03:47 AM   #19
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

I change my timing belt following this guide a week ago. Thanks! First time ever doing this

some notes on problems I ran into.

My Cams immediately shifted when removing the old belt. Make sure you mark the timing and try to use a thin brush (paint pen, possible a sharpy) so you can match it up as close as possible.

The cam lock tool i tried to make out of 3/16 steel would not fit since the cam slots didnt line up leveled on my car. Was slightly v shaped. Very slight tho, I took an angle grinder to it and used a cheap sparkplug gap tool to get it just right so my timing marks lined up.

Make sure to use a 6mm allen tool on the Timing Belt tensioner. I fumbled with getting the timing belt of for about 2 hrs (making the tool and fixing timing while slipping on the belt) cause i didn't realize I was using 1 size too small and it wasn't getting enough leverage to pull the tension back enough.

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Old 03-20-2014, 01:57 PM   #20
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Default Re: How To - Timing Belt Replacement

ArticWhite,

How many miles did you have on your car when you changed the timing belt?

...
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