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Old 08-25-2019, 11:50 AM   #1
spacetrace33
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2000 SL1
1998 SL2
Default Rear main seal

Let me give you some background.

Rebuilt this 99 engine a year ago, using the fsm as a guide. It developed an oil leak early on. Suspicions were high that it was the rear main.

Instead of redoing the job that I failed at, I took it to a shop to verify and repair any/all leaks. He confirmed it's the RMS and replaced. There "the guy" verified the pcv system was working. It sounded like he tried to verify why it went out.

I haven't had the car back even a week and it's leaking again. I'm 99% sure that the RMS carrier wasn't removed from the car this 2nd time...if that makes a difference.

I've researched on here http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=232186 and that led to another link for a good read.

I had a question about the toothpick size rtv found in the above link... Where exactly does it go? Around the whole circumference of seal to carrier?

I am going to add that the harmonic balancer was recently replaced due to the rubber not being flush completely on the old one.

What did me And "the guy" miss?

...
00 SL1 Daily Driver Frankenstein
98 SL2 race car-not street legal by any means
01 SC2 race car-not street legal by any means
00 SL2 aka boom boom pow

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Old 08-25-2019, 12:15 PM   #2
Waiex191
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1999 SL2
1998 SC2
Default Re: Rear main seal

Cool to see my old thread is useful. A 3" to 2" PVC reducer bushing is the perfect tool to finish pressing it. Cost $1.94 with Rockford tax at Menards.


Here is the post where the seal went back on.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...&postcount=184

This is the key picture. I made a cone out of flashing to get the seal on. Lube the seal, crank, and flashing with a little oil and slide it on nicely.


I did not use RTV when I put the seal on the carrier. No leaks. I think you have interpreted OldNuc's recommendation correctly.

To do this job properly you have to drop the oil pan and remove the transmission. Not sure how else you could do it.

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 08-25-2019, 01:14 PM   #3
RobertGary1
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1996 SC2
2006 VUE 3.5L
Default Re: Rear main seal

You could probably just slide the transmission out of the way. That works for replacing the flywheel.
-Robert

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Old 08-25-2019, 01:55 PM   #4
OldNuc
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Rear main seal

It is likely the seal is not leaking but the carrier or pan is. It is almost impossible to get a complete seal on the pan-carrier with RTV or The Right Stuff unless the engine is out of the car and even then it will be very difficult. A true main seal failure will dump oil at quite a clip and FYI a left end cam cover leak will look exactly like a main seal leak to the inexperienced. So check the cam cover for leaks by this procedure.
You can not see an oil leak. Clean off the head/cam cover joint with clean paper towels and brake cleaner until spotless. Start engine and allow to sit at idle until the fan is about to come on and then shut it off. Now take a ball of toilet paper and blot all around the head/cam cover joint and check the paper for signs of oil after every blot. If you do not find any oil give the car several hours to sit and cool then repeat toilet paper spot test.

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Old 10-16-2019, 03:09 PM   #5
spacetrace33
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2000 SL1
1998 SL2
Default Re: Rear main seal

OldNuc nailed this once again!

VC gasket was installed last year, per fsm instructions.

Only putting a dab of rtv at the tcc joints and using a felpro gasket set.

Guess it's time to take the VC off and see if it's warped-it looked in good condition prior....😕

...
00 SL1 Daily Driver Frankenstein
98 SL2 race car-not street legal by any means
01 SC2 race car-not street legal by any means
00 SL2 aka boom boom pow

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