|06-17-2013, 11:02 AM||#1|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lower Alabama= God's country, if God wanted mosquito and red ant bites, and to be covered in mildew
bench bleeding MC
OK, I dig the concept here. Even watched You Tube vids.
BUT when you remove the temp lines, and install the MC on your car, won't brake fluid leak out?
Why not "bench bleed" it when it's already connected to the brake linkage and booster?
After you re-connect brake lines, you still have to bleed at all four wheels then?
97 SL. Born 6/5/97, bought 7/7/97
08 Burgman 400
02 Haro MTB- can't kill it, still trying though
The Schofield Kid: Yeah, well, I guess they had it coming.
Will Munny: We all got it coming, kid.
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|06-17-2013, 11:40 AM||#2|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Far Southwestern Iowa
Re: bench bleeding MC
Clamp MC in a vice level in fore/aft and left/right directions. Fill with Fresh DOT-3 fluid and let it set for an hour or so while you fix something else. After an hour loosen the outlet check valve cap and lightly pressurize the reservoir until you get a fluid flow from the port associated with the cap you loosened, once you get fluid tighten cap. Repeat for the other cap. Now connect the temp lines and slowly stroke the MC once or twice. The 2 ports at each check cap location are common. After the bench bleed disconnect the temp lines and go instal and lightly connect all 4 lines. Using appropriate brake fluid catch procedures gently by hand press brake pedal slightly until fluid appears at the line nuts. While holding pedal tighten all 4 nuts. Should be done. Pressure bleeder makes this much easier.
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