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Old 10-08-2011, 04:18 PM   #1
cmjj42
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1993 SL2
Dizzy So my rear trailing arm broke...{stuck bolt question}

Greetings one and all!

I'll try to be to the point (at least at first) and not get too wordy here:

'93 SL2 had a trailing arm break the other day. The break's at the weld just in front of the bushing, so that it's now a trailing, DANGLING arm.

Got a new one at a Chevy dealer.

The terminal nut on the other side of the bushing I'm just cutting off with a hacksaw. The inner frame mount bolt came out without much trouble.

PROBLEM: The outer frame mount bolt. It won't come out for love nor money. Any tips on removing it?? I'm starting to get desperate here.



I've already tried alternately torching it and soaking it with PB Blaster. Even using an (electric) impact wrench and alternated between tightening and loosening. It won't budge and, what's more, is starting to show signs of rounding off(!)

More heat? Less torque? I dunno. I've considered using the long, galvanized pipe I keep around as a breaker bar for just such a purpose, but I've avoided that owing to fears of either rounding off the head or twisting it off entirely. Then I'd be utterly screwed.

I've even considered getting a block of dry ice to press up against the whole affair to try and get the metal to contract enough to loosen it.

Has ANYbody dealt with this sort of thing? I've seen a few references to trailing arms here, but nothing about this specifically.

Cheers,

---chris

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Old 10-08-2011, 04:36 PM   #2
OldNuc
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1998 SC2
Default Re: So my rear trailing arm broke...{stuck bolt question}

What are you using for a heat source? Do not set fire to the inside of the trunk..


A 6 point metric impact socket and at least a 1/2" drive non chinese pneumatic impact will either remove it or snap the head off so it can be drilled out. Something like this will be effective. http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...l-P133116.aspx

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Old 10-08-2011, 05:18 PM   #3
PlasticCarsRock
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Default Re: So my rear trailing arm broke...{stuck bolt question}

Impacting it is probably better than a long/extended breaker bar. The impacts will break loose the rust binding it, without forcing it to turn before it's loose (in theory). It's better to impact gently for a lot longer, than being aggressive with it (don't head straight for the 700ft lb impacter, set on max). Instead of just heating it, try heating it, then rapidly cooling the bolt (heating it makes it expand (both the nut (frame) and bolt)--if you rapidly cool just the nut, it will shrink a bit (hopefully enough to break the rust). Dry ice is a nice idea, but I think plain old water will be just as good, if not better, because it will make far better thermal contact. Be careful you don't get anything too hot, as you can start a fire if you're not careful.

I would heat it, cool it quickly with some cool water, then immediately put the impacter on it. PB blaster can be helpful, but it is very flammable, so be careful using that in combination with heat.

If you use a good socket (impact grade if you're impacting), it shouldn't strip the bolt unless the head is horribly rusted, or you get it on a bit of an angle, and slip off. Most bolts that get rounded off is because someone got the socket a bit sideways and slipped off (often multiple times, but it doesn't take much).

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Old 10-08-2011, 07:42 PM   #4
cmjj42
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Default Re: So my rear trailing arm broke...{stuck bolt question}

Hmm...I've been pretty diligent about trying to keep the socket straight on the bolt. It *is* 15mm, right? I've hit the thing with the impact wrench probably half a dozen times prior to this.

And I use nothing but six-pointers.

As for the fire hazard, I've been pretty careful. I've got one of those smaller bernzomatic hand-held torches. Not the teeny-tiny pencil style. More the pistol-grip style.

Regardless, I was glad I didn't have to heat the inner bolt (which resides uncomfortably close to brake and FUEL lines).

The next thing I'm wondering (before I take another whack at it) is how many heating/cooling cycles I should expect this to take. Just room temp water is enough to cool it? Spray bottle? I'm trying to envision the logistics of this.

(BTW, my gratitude to all for the rapid response time on this. This is my daily commuter, and it's a pain in the ***** to have it down. Plus, "I want my car back!!")

Cheers,

---chris

...
'93 SL2 that I drove out of the showroom 320k+ miles ago. :^)

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Old 10-08-2011, 08:06 PM   #5
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Default Re: So my rear trailing arm broke...{stuck bolt question}

A couple of cycles should do it. Also take a flat nosed punch and bash the center of the bolt head 5 or 6 times to get its attention.

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Old 10-12-2011, 12:32 AM   #6
cmjj42
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Default Re: So my rear trailing arm broke...{stuck bolt question}

Still working on it. Tried the thermal cycling a couple of times, as well as beating on it. Still won't budge. Then again, I might not be going to enough extremes (heat or cold or bashing and definitely not torquing (I'm desperately afraid of (finishing) rounding the bolt head off)).

I'll let you know what eventually happens.

(I ended up cutting off the terminal nut with a cut-off wheel, btw.)

...
'93 SL2 that I drove out of the showroom 320k+ miles ago. :^)

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Old 10-16-2011, 11:05 AM   #7
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Default Re: So my rear trailing arm broke...{stuck bolt question}

I suppose it's fair to let you all know...I caved. Threw in the towel.

After trying everything everybody recommended, I took it to a guy I've done business with for years. I figured I couldn't jack the car up high enough to really beat on the thing and bust it loose, so I very very carefully drove it the 12 miles to take it in.

Apparently it did round off totally for him--even after heating the crap out of it with a torch. It ended up taking him 1/2 an hour with a biter/extractor socket to get it out, but get it he did.

Cleaned up the threads, got the new arm on, and put Humpty Dumpty back together (using anti-seize compound this time). When I pointed out to him that it's unlikely I'd EVER need to remove it, he just said that you never know...

Anyway, thanks for the support.

Now I need to go look for posts about CD-2...

Cheers,

---chris

...
'93 SL2 that I drove out of the showroom 320k+ miles ago. :^)

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Old 10-16-2011, 11:14 AM   #8
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Default Re: So my rear trailing arm broke...{stuck bolt question}

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmjj42 View Post
Cleaned up the threads, got the new arm on, and put Humpty Dumpty back together (using anti-seize compound this time). When I pointed out to him that it's unlikely I'd EVER need to remove it, he just said that you never know...
Glad you got it worked out.

If you ever skip the neverseize because you think you'll never need to remove it again, Murphy's Law will come into effect and you'll be working on it in a year or so, and, of course, it will be even more difficult to remove. That happened to me, twice, when I first started working on cars... never again. If it doesn't require thread locker, it gets neverseize. If it requires threadlocker, that's what it gets. Contrary to what it may sound like, threadlocker (the medium or weak kinds, at least) works as well as neverseize to prevent bolts from rusting in: breaking the threadlocker isn't very difficult--considerably easier then rusted bolts, and it typically prevents any rust from forming.

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Old 10-17-2011, 01:37 AM   #9
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1997 SC2
Default Re: So my rear trailing arm broke...{stuck bolt question}

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasticCarsRock View Post
If it doesn't require thread locker, it gets neverseize. If it requires threadlocker, that's what it gets.
This is exactly what I did when I built my engine and had the entire front end apart. The threadlocker prevents oxidation by displacing the air in the mating surfaces of the threads.

...
"The Twins"
#4, "Betty" 1995 SC2m, 163K, 400 Miles per quart. Garage queen. Currently in 1000 pieces for a rebuild.
#7 "Betsy" 1995 SC2, 131K, daily driver.

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