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Old 06-15-2010, 02:21 PM   #1
sidney004
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2000 SL1
Default Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

For those following my saga, I was able to jiggle the key the right way and move the cylinder to the ACC position. I have watched Richpin's video on the removal procedure BUT on my 2000 it appears different. There is a slot on top with a hole directly beneath it. There is no release tab as depicted in manuals or that Richpin refers to. Richpin mentions a hole to put a wire in to release the cylinder on the side but none is to be found. I have tried putting a screwdriver in the slot, no go; same with putting a thin nail in the hole to release the cylinder, no go again.
Who has done this on a 2000, what do I do next? Thanks for all the help.

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Old 06-15-2010, 10:50 PM   #2
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2000 SL1
Default Re: Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

Follow up:

Richpin has a video for removal of the 2000+ SL:
http://www.bing.com/videos/watch/vid...0-126800495545

I "unwound" a cotter pin of the correct size and bent it into shape as the pin pushing tool. It did not come out as easily as in the video so I clamped a vise grip plier on the outer rim of the cylinder for more leverage and out it came!

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Old 06-16-2010, 06:57 PM   #3
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2000 SL1
Default Re: Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

Conclusion:

Took the cylinder to a locksmith and rebuilt it for $30. There was a lot of metal debris in the cavity from the worn out lock and keys. The installation was not easy at first, it would not go in all the way and kept getting hung up. I finally figured it out, it was the cable actuated park interlock pin. I put a vise grip on the visable cable end to firmly pull it back and presto; in goes the lock. Put the covers on with the 3 easy 5.5mm screws only and I am good to go. I hope this helps anyone else fixing the 2000+ SL ignition lock cylinder removal and installation.

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Old 09-12-2012, 06:21 PM   #4
glmots
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2001 SL2
1996 SL2
Default Re: Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

I'm currently having the same problem, I've looked at all of the videos, done whatever they say and it's a no go. I'm stuck and don't know what to do.
Thanks for your input, but along with everything else, I still can't get the key to move at all. It will go in and out, but not change the position and move it to acc location.

...
2001 Saturn SL2
1996 Saturn SL2

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Old 09-01-2014, 01:53 PM   #5
hooked2u
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Dizzy Re: Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

I have the same problem as glmots.

My Saturn: SC2, 2001, manual transmission. My new key (I had 2 new keys cut from the VIN at Chevrolet Dealership) will go in the key slot but I am not able to turn the key. I've made sure that the steering wheel has no tension on the ignition key, jiggled the key in the lock cylinder slot, blow compressed air in the slot, sprayed the slot with brake cleaner, lubricated the slot with Zepp (better than WD-40 IMO) and the key will not turn.

I have watched both videos by richpin06a and sent a query to Rich about this problem. He replied back that there is no other way to remove the lock cylinder without it being in the ACC position because the 2000-2002 uses a passlock security system.

I find it difficult to believe there is no other solution. Researching the Internet. Today is a holiday, Labor Day 2014. If I haven't found a solution by tomorrow, I will try a locksmith.

...
<<1999 Saturn SC2 4 speed automatic. 262,658 (as of: 2014AUG29), low comp cyl#3, parked, use emergency trans. only; 2001 Saturn SC2 5 gear manual. < 127K mi, purch May 2014. Great MPG!>>

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Old 09-01-2014, 02:03 PM   #6
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Dizzy Re: Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

I have the same problem as glmots.

My Saturn: SC2, 2001, manual transmission. My new key (I had 2 new keys cut from the VIN at Chevrolet Dealership) will go in the key slot but I am not able to turn the key. I've made sure that the steering wheel has no tension on the ignition key, clutch pressed firmly to floorboard, jiggled the key in the lock cylinder slot, blow compressed air in the slot, sprayed the slot with brake cleaner, lubricated the slot with Zepp (better than WD-40 IMO) and the key will not turn.

I have watched both videos by richpin06a and sent a query to Rich about this problem. He replied back that there is no other way to remove the lock cylinder without it being in the ACC position because the 2000-2002 uses a passlock security system.

I find it difficult to believe there is no other solution. Researching the Internet. Today is a holiday, Labor Day 2014. If I haven't found a solution by tomorrow, I will try a locksmith.

...
<<1999 Saturn SC2 4 speed automatic. 262,658 (as of: 2014AUG29), low comp cyl#3, parked, use emergency trans. only; 2001 Saturn SC2 5 gear manual. < 127K mi, purch May 2014. Great MPG!>>

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Old 09-01-2014, 02:54 PM   #7
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Default Re: Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

Using the same hole as in the latest video but the following procedure from the service manual.

Lock Cylinder Replacement - Ignition

Removal Procedure

Caution

Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices

Important

If the ignition lock cylinder is replaced, the PASSLOCK relearn procedure must be performed.

•Disconnect the negative battery cable.
•Remove the lock cylinder bezel from the steering column shroud by carefully prying with a thin bladed screwdriver.
•Remove the shroud fasteners and remove the steering column upper and lower shroud panels.
•Insert the key into the ignition lock cylinder and rotate to the RUN position. Then rotate the ignition cylinder back to the ACC position.

•Depress the locking button on the side of ignition module assembly with a thin pick-type tool. Slide the lock cylinder assembly from the ignition module.

...
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:17 PM   #8
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Default UPDATE: Regarding Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

Tried turning the key in the ignition today. It turned. Perhaps sitting 3 days letting the Zepp soak in helped loosen them. Sprayed more Zepp in key slot. I've been stranded for 4 days. I probably should pull the cylinder out a clean it, but I will take a chance and go run a couple errands. I will clean the cylinder before night fall.

Thanks ssicarman for the passlock reset procedure. I already have this, but thanks for responding anyway.

...
<<1999 Saturn SC2 4 speed automatic. 262,658 (as of: 2014AUG29), low comp cyl#3, parked, use emergency trans. only; 2001 Saturn SC2 5 gear manual. < 127K mi, purch May 2014. Great MPG!>>

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Old 08-11-2015, 10:39 PM   #9
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Default Re: Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

Saturn SL ignition replacement on the cheap.
I just replaced the ignition cylinder and ignition housing on my 2002 SL1 (3rd generation is 2000-2002). Here are some notes and tips I figured out along the way. I wanted to do it on the super cheap, as this car has a ton of miles on it.
My situation:
My key would not turn. I got a new key from dealer, and it also did not work. Steering wheel lock was not the problem. You cannot pull out the ignition cylinder unless you can turn it to accessory slot. Locksmiths are really expensive and I am not one. After trying to force it and then failing to drill it out I called around some shops. Cheapest quotes just to replace cylinder were over $250. Dealer wanted over $400. I found I could buy both a new (uncoded) ignition cylinder and a new ignition housing from Amazon for less than $85 total shipped Prime, so I did. I figured I might have damaged the housing anyway and I wasn't getting the cylinder out any time soon.

Removing airbag, steering wheel and other parts:
Watch RichPin's YouTube video about how to remove 3rd gen. airbags as well as his video on how to change the ignition switch (it shows how to remove the ignition housing). Watch them again.
Remove negative contact from car battery.
My first problem was not having a skinny enough 5 mm nut driver to get off steering column housing as well as the multifunction switch behind the steering wheel (sockets are too big to fit in the holes to access the nut heads). I found a Dewalt 7/32"drill head nut driver on a multipurpose screwdriver worked fine. You can buy 5 mm hand nut drivers online but none of the hardware or auto supply stores around me stock them.
I used a flathead screw drill driver bit (about 2 inches long) and vice grips attached at a right angle to get in the triangular holes to pop the airbag off. My wheel was locked so turning the wheel to get at the holes with a screwdriver was not an option. I pried the air bag with a flathead screwdriver like in RichPin's video while I turned the drill bit-vice grip in the holes.
After getting airbag off, I failed to disconnect the little black electric connectors which end up feeding through the steering wheel. I removed the steering wheel bolt with a 13/16 inch, and then pulled the wheel with my hands back and forth to pull it off. When it popped off I accidentally pulled the three pins out of the black connector on the car side of the connection. Thankfully I could see what order to slide then back from RichPin's video. I think it is for the horn, but it would suck not to have that.
Getting the multifunction switch off is easy if you can get to the 5 mm nut heads (see above).
Disconnecting the various electrical connectors is pretty easy. Follow that one RichPin mentions way back to undo its metal clip to give you enough slack to take off multifunction switch.
The security bolts were way easier than I thought they would be. A cold chisel hit at the right angle moved them in one soft hit, and vice grips and fingers did the rest easy.
Take off ignition housing and remove switch and the removal part is done.

Installing replacement parts (housing and cylinder):
The ignition housing came with reverse torx replacement security bolts. I just tightened them with vice grips. The ignition cylinder came uncoded with no key (loose pins and springs in little sealed bags). After much research into what it takes to code it or how much it would cost to have it keyed to my old key, i decided to install it uncoded (any Saturn key of the right size will turn it). That may not be appealing to everyone, but my car is a manual, so it is less likely to get stolen where I live. If someone stole it they might just be doing me a favor anyway. One bonus is that both the old worn out key and the newly cut key work now.
Mounting the switch and housing is easy. I put the cylinder into the housing before mounting and made sure my key turned it.
Do everything else in reverse order. Make sure your steering wheel is mounted on straight, if that is a concern of yours.
I ran into trouble with the security light flashing and my Passlock 1 system cutting of fuel pump when I tired to start the car. The new magnet passcode sensor system from my new parts did not have the same resistance code to send to the control module which tells the pump to run (no one is trying to steal us). I went through the three stage relearn process twice but it still was not working. The procedure is below -- it takes a total of 30+ minutes. I was almost ready to give up but I went through it again making sure I waited a little over ten minutes each time I let the flashing security light turn off. I waited five second between each reset. That time it worked and everything is functioning great.

Relearn procedure for Passlock:

1. Turn ignition switch to RUN position.
2. Momentarily rotate ignition switch to START position and return to RUN position. DO NOT start vehicle.
3. Wait a minimum of ten minutes.
4. SECURITY indicator light changes from a flashing or on state to an off state, turn ignition to OFF position (make sure it has been ten minutes)
5. Wait five seconds in OFF position.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 two more times (for a total of three times waiting ten minutes after the third turn to START)
7. From OFF turn to START. The car should start on this ignition cycle.

If the ignition switch is turned OFF before ten minutes has passed the relearn procedure must be restarted. Even if the security light stops flashing, wait more than ten minutes.

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Old 04-23-2017, 08:00 PM   #10
jrpmh
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Wrench Re: Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal on 2000 SL

I found that Richpin's instructions do not apply to my 2002 SL. However, this youtube video does: /watch?v=4XJscUVv_q8[

Summary: remove the 5 screws to pull top and bottom covers. I found a 5.5 mm screwdriver at a hobby store (RC focus) as richpin suggested for $7. There is a small round hole in the right side of the housing about 3" back. This gives you access from the side to the locking pin; you insert your tool so it passes under the cylinder, then pull down on the handle sticking out to make the tool blade inside push the pin up into the cylinder body. Getting a grip on the part of the cylinder sticking out, you can pull it.

Additional notes:

My key comes out of the ignition at any position, so it is not helpful in pulling the cylinder although you still want it in the ignition.

I wiggled and jiggled the key for 10 minutes but couldn't get it to turn. I finally released it using the method of tapping on the key with a hammer.

The SL doesn't have the passlock security system so recoding is not a problem.

Curiously, the arrangement of the pins didn't appear to match the profile of the key. I bought the car used and it came with a replacement key rather than the factory original, so I don't know what happened. Although it was occasionally balky to turn, I't always been able to persuade it to work by wiggling the key and the wheel until last week. After pulling the lock's pins, I put the key in and used a dental pick in the pin slots to scratch the key, which allowed me to pinpoint the vital points on the key. I traced the key profile on a piece of paper, marked the vital points, and wrote down what I thought the proper pin number was (this lock has pins from 1 to 4; #1s correspond to the highest hills on the key and #4s to the lowest valleys). I needed 2 #1s and 2 #3s; the cylinder instead had 3 #1s and 1 #3. So I left the spare #1 out, leaving a pin slot empty where the profile called for the missing #3. It works! Nobody's stealing an old SL so I'm not worried about the loss of one pin out of 9.

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