S-Series Radiator Replacement

[shadestalker]

I just completed this yesterday on my '95 SL2. It should be mentioned that once the bolts holding the radiator to the AC condensor are removed, the condensor has a tendency to obey gravity. If you've removed the splash guard under the front of the engine bay, this means the next stop for your condensor is the ground.

[cjc15153]

I just did this today to my '98 SL1 Automatic. I had the cracked and bulging radiator that I've learned is typical.

My most ambitious car repair to date was re-attaching a driver's side mirror and I had a real hard time with this. After I finished, I ran the car for 5 to 10 minutes in my driveway.

I'm not convinced that the lower cooling hose warmed up at all, although the temp gauge never got past the 1/4 mark. Is there a chance there is an air pocket or something preventing coolant flow (as described here)?

Also, I'm worried about the transmission cooling lines. They came off without a problem, but I'm afraid that I attached them them backwards. Is this possible? Is it likely? The line that is slightly higher is currently attached to the top of intake of the radiator.

Finally, I used the Haynes manual instructions but I also saw this: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

Which says to angle the top transmission cooling line at a 30 degree angle. I did not do this. Should I?

This forum has been a tremendous help. Hopefully I'll be able to contribute a kernel of knowledge eventually.

Thanks

[Dolapos]

Originally Posted by dildog

I just changed my radiator on a 1996 SL2 Auto.. There's no way possible that I saw to remove the trans cooler lines from the radiator, even w/ a flare nut wrench. Luckily there are quick disconnects on the trans itself (I even replaced the fittings on the trans) and the cooler lines are hella cheap. So my advice is, if you plan on replacing your radiator just go ahead and buy the trans cooler lines as well.

If you have a good transmission cooler line and can't get it off the radiator using a flare nut wrench, you can remove the line from the transmission end, take the radiator to a Firestone shop and have someone use vice grippers to remove it. This is how I got the line off the radiator of my 1997 Saturn SC2. This way you can reuse the line and save some green.

[~Hawk]

Hello. Not only am I completely new here, I'm completely new to the world of vehicle repair. I am, however, poor and clever, and figured that I could probably manage this myself based on what I had read here and other places and what I had heard.

I was completely wrong; These instructions may be excellent, but they are entirely inadequate to a complete noob like myself. I need some serious help. Would it be possible for someone to explain these things with the assumption that I know what a socket wrench is, but *nothing more*?

2. Start by removing the air tube over radiator by pulling off the 2 small plastic clips attached over the radiator. There is also a sensor connected on the bottom right side near the airbox, so don’t just yank it off.

Um, this should be at least step three. Step one needs to be "Locate the radiator," perhaps with a description of the thing. I'm fairly sure that I accomplished this. Step two: Locate the air tube. This is where I got lost-- What does that look like? I don't know whether I found it or not! Is it the big black box-looking thing on *top* of the radiator (under the hood, rather than under the whole car)? Is it the black plastic tube that looks a bit like a dryer's air vent, only smaller and ridgier? I saw that from the top (not from the bottom) but have no idea where it goes or what it connects to-- I saw no signs of that. And what is the airbox?! I'm sorry to sound like a moron (I'm not, I assure you!) but I have NO IDEA what you're talking about. I'm *completely* lost even though I haven't even gotten anywhere yet, and more depressingly I'm concerned that the radiator itself isn't the problem at all (though I have no doubt that it does indeed need to be replaced).

I grew up in a household with no vehicle whatsoever, my most ambitious car business to date has been replacing light bulbs in my 2003 Ford Windstar. The car I'm trying to work with now is a 1997 Saturn SL1 with an automatic transmission. It does not hold coolant AT ALL-- I thought at first that it was the reservoir, which I managed to replace on my own last week. That wasn't the problem, water still went *straight down* to the ground when it was filled. In my research, I came to believe it might be the radiator (and that the radiator likely needed to be replaced even if that wasn't the source of the problem) but right now I'm stuck on the replacement as well as the issue.

Please help if you can, and remember-- I AM CLUELESS. Beyond the most basic of tools (e.g. "a socket wrench, 10mm") it is safe to assume that I have no idea what you're talking about. I'll remember for next time, but right now I know *nothing*.

[shadestalker]

I would start with Richpin's video(s).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nUyGjeLpVs

[Ghill_Sl1]

I love Saturn Fans.

I have had the classic driver's side leak on my radiator for some time.

The leak is slow and I have had the new radiator around for awhile but have not gotten around to the job.

I was preparing to do the radiator replacement but my Upper Transmission Cooler line coming from the radiator is extremely corroded. The lower line looks good however, and I am aware of the quick disconnects on the transmission side.

Also to remove the cooling lines from the radiator do you use a 13mm flare nut wrench for both the upper and lower transmission cooler lines?!

Previously I have not had trouble finding parts on the internet but I cannot find an upper transmission cooler line anywhere.

Does anyone know if these can be bought at an auto parts store (NAPA, Autozone etc.)?!

[David 93 SL2m]

Originally Posted by Ghill_Sl1

Also to remove the cooling lines from the radiator do you use a 13mm flare nut wrench for both the upper and lower transmission cooler lines?

Yes. PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench might help too.

Originally Posted by Ghill_Sl1

...I cannot find an upper transmission cooler line anywhere.

The two transmission cooler lines are very very similar. The compression fittings at the radiator end are the same, one hose is slightly longer than the other, the quick disconnect fittings are almost the same - one is a little bit shorter than the other. I'd guess that we'd be okay using two lower transmission cooler lines (or two upper transmission cooler lines).

If we are really adamant about using an upper transmission cooler line, we could buy a new lower transmission cooler line and transfer over the quick disconnect fitting from the older upper transmission cooler line. To remove the quick disconnect fitting from either hose carefully score the clamp that secures it to the hose enough so that it is thin and weak and can be pried off with a screwdriver. To attach the quick disconnect fitting we can shove it in and use a band clamp - just don't over-tighten it.

[Andrew Kersey]

Originally Posted by DonP

Most after market radiators will have the auto tranny cooling capability (means one less part to stock). With a manual you just ignore the connection points for the audo transmission fluid lines.

Be aware that coolent is bad for pets who might drink a spill, so clean it up.

I'd rate its difficulty on a par with a water pump replacement.

I know this is an old post but I need help here. I bought an after market radiator for my sons 2000 SL2 that has a manual transmission. By he only replacements I find have the connections for the auto transmission. You say to ignore them, but the have little temporary plastic plugs covering the opening in the fittings. If I simply ignore those, there is no way those things can handle the pressure and temps of an operating radiator at high temp. Are there supposed to be better plugs there or what?

[fdryer]

Andrew Kersey, radiators with integrated xmission oil coolers are basically two radiators, a radiator within a radiator - the xmission radiator is completely separate from the coolant circulating inside the main radiator. It's just a metal tube running inside the side tank where xmission oil simply flows in one fitting and out the other, never mixing with coolant. Coolant will never leak into the xmission radiator and gush out the capped fittings. The plastic caps are dust plugs to prevent anything from falling into the openings if they weren't capped. Since the majority of vehicles are automatic, the radiator manufacturers may have eliminated the line making radiators without xmission oil cooling. This is fine as you can use this radiator as is and not be concerned about the unused fittings. Leave the plugs in and install the radiator, fill up with antifreeze, idle or drive the car around the block and recheck coolant level.

[AMR Engineering]

A lot of the radiators, especially aftermarket replacements these days have the provisions for auto as well. You will be fine not using them. It won't matter much if you have plugs or not.

If you want a complete bolt on replacement made for manual transmission only, we make a full aluminum radiator which are available for order on our website. These are a much better, and superior solution for those aftermarket radiators with those pesky plastic end tanks. https://amrengineering.com/product/1...r-oem-fitment/