Clutch Rating??

[SaturnDreamer]

Hey, I'm new to this Site but since I'm planning on buying a Saturn Sky soon I wanted to join a good looking Site. I've grown up around Saturn. I was born in 89' and we have had a Saturn SC2 since 94'. My dad got it new and then handed it down to me its got almost 190,000 miles, its black/gold speckle, and is a manual, I've always loved Saturn throughout my life and now I'm planning on buying a black 07' Saturn Sky and completely re-doing it to get the most performance out of it as possibe but still have it be street legal... The question is.. is the stock clutch on the 07' 2.4L Saturn Sky rated at the 700hp mark like the engine and some other components in the car?, or should I get the stage 3+ clutch that Im looking at.. (keep in mind I plan on installing a stage 4 turbo charger and other high performance upgrades... no NOS though...) Thanks for any and all support! I know I'll be asking alot more questions later on!

[Gerry Proctor]

Originally Posted by SaturnDreamer

... is the stock clutch on the 07' 2.4L Saturn Sky rated at the 700hp mark like the engine and some other components in the car? ...

No, not even close. Clutches are rated by clamping force and lb/ft of torque. Horsepower is a mathematical manipulation of torque, but, as it turns out, horsepower is the most common term used to rate parts, even though it's not really applicable.

How well a clutch holds up in any application depends upon traction. A clutch could easily survive behind a very powerful engine if the car can't get traction. But if the car can hook up, then the clutch is not long for this world.

Once you get past the 350hp level, you need to go to the aftermarket.

But the trans is only rated for 260 lb/ft of torque, so once you upgrade the clutch, you'll blow the trans. And once you upgrade the trans, you'll blow the rear.

Serious modifications are an excellent way to find weak links.

[SaturnDreamer]

Sounds like fun.. that leads me to another question... should I get a non-redline sky, but get the rear differential option? or should i just get an aftermarket differential locker? I got a bud who keeps sayin get posi instead of open diff.? which one would be ideal for all around performance? or does it even matter? Thanks

[Gerry Proctor]

The limited slip differential is a better starting point. It's not going to hold up under a lot of abuse, though. If you burn up the clutch packs, you'll end up with an open differential. I don't think there are any aftermarket options, like a Detroit Locker, with this Getrag differential.

With the modifications you're proposing, it would be better to start with a base Sky. The Red Line uses direct injection, so fuel system upgrades to accommodate the power levels you're proposing are better handled by port injection since it's easier to swap injectors in the base model.

[SaturnDreamer]

Here's a question, because I'm getting a stage four Hahn racecraft turbo for a 2007 2.4L Saturn Sky, should I get a wastegate and purchase a blow-off-valve on top of a big bore throttle body, or would it be even more effective to add a CBV to be routed in before the mass airflow sensor but before the turbine and just drop the blow off valve? Or just have it be an atmospheric blow off, although wouldn't setting up an atmospheric blowoff valve confuse the ECU? Also, I had heard some things about how if you have a MAP sensor then you wouldn't need a CBV, but that doesnt make sense to me... can someone clear this up for me? Thanks

[SaturnDreamer]

Originally Posted by SaturnDreamer

or would it be even more effective to add a CBV to be routed in before the mass airflow sensor but before the turbine and just drop the blow off valve?

Sorry what i meant to say was "or would it be even more effective to add a CBV to be routed in AFTER the mass airflow sensor but before the turbine and just drop the blow off valve?