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Old 11-16-2001, 05:17 AM   #1
Heartbeat - '95 SL2
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1995 SL2
Default Upper Torque Axis Mount Modification

I have the original solid upper mount still installed in my car, and just modified it as a preventative measure so that it wouldn't tear anytime soon.

I used clear GE Silicone II, a 3 oz. tube which I got in the hardware section of Target for $3. This had GE's highest ratings for adhesion, flexibility, etc. and can handle temps up to 400F. Touchable after 15 mins., full cure takes 24 hrs (longer since we're filling gaps in a motor mount). After curing, it remains flexible.

Modifying an uninstalled mount would be easier, but I was able to do it with it on the car. In fact, I think it may be better that way. I have a mount off the car, and the gap between the top of the rubber and the steel frame is about 1/8", yet the gap of the one installed on the car is more like a 1/2". Filling the gaps while it's on the car ensures that the rubber mount only twists as much as the silicone can flex against the steel frame.

The tip of the tube has 2 bead notches to cut open. I started out with the thinner bead, smaller hole, but since the stuff is thick, I opened it up to the bigger hole since I had to fill the 1/2" gap. I squeezed out a bunch of goop into the top 1/2" gap, on the side facing the engine. Using a rubber glove, I pushed the goop as far into the gap as I could with my fingers. Repeated this until the goop reached the other side facing the coolant surge tank, then smoothed out the surface with my finger.

Next, I worked on the vertical side gaps, which are very tight. Pushing the goop through doesn't work, so I pushed as much as I could into both sides of both gaps.

With the remainder of the tube, I jammed the nozzle into the bottom corners of the mount on the engine side, and squeezed the goop out until I saw it coming out the coolant surge tank side, then smoothed it out with my finger.

I used the entire 3 oz. tube, which was just the perfect amount, so I'm pretty sure the goop also filled the narrow gap along the bottom edge.

One word of warning when doing this to a mount installed on the car -- let it cure for at least 12 hrs. or more. I had to drive my car after only 6 hrs. and even though the stuff felt pretty stiff, and I didn't torque the engine at all, some of the goop oozed out of the bottom corners. I had to push it back in and smooth it out again, but since it had already cured a lot, so I'm sure it's not as strong as it should be.

Car feels pretty good now. Some vibrations are transmitted into the cockpit now that there's no isolation of the engine mount from the mid-rail, but it's not bad. Only happens when the car is started and at high idle. Shifting feels much crisper -- now that the rubber mount has only the play from the silicone flexing, the engine doesn't lurch between shifts.

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Old 11-16-2001, 05:57 AM   #2
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Awesome...I'm gonna go buy some of that tomorrow after class and goop it up. Would window weld work? Or would it get too hot?

Has anyone applied window weld to the 395nm engine engine and transaxle mounts to make them even stiffer?

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Old 11-17-2001, 05:28 AM   #3
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I'm not sure what temp window weld will take, but others have used it before. The last thing I wanted to do was botch the job, so I did some research on the web, and GE Silicone II had the highest temp spec I could find. Temp specs are printed on the label, so I'd check if all you can find is window weld.

I haven't done the lower dogbone mount. It's still in good shape too, so I only did the upper mount since that's the one that seems to fail more often. My doing the lower mount may be overkill, since I don't drive the car hard.

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Old 11-17-2001, 06:38 AM   #4
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I bought a set of the 395 nm dog bones (there are two)...

I think I'll silicone those tomorrow when I do the upper mouont...sweee Better shifts, more torque to the wheels

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Old 11-18-2001, 08:26 PM   #5
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you guys know of just average polyurathane (sp) would hold up to the temps it will encounter? Is silicon basically the same thing then; either of them will work then?


thanks!

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Old 11-19-2001, 03:10 PM   #6
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nevermind found a place that had the GE brand w/ the temp rating on it...no other brands had it, and when I asked the guy working in the department he said for most of them, they woudn't stand temps over 200F. Too bad I'm heading home for break tomarrow or I'd take care of the upper mount right now....

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Old 11-20-2001, 11:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Heartbeat - '95 SL2
I haven't done the lower dogbone mount. It's still in good shape too, so I only did the upper mount since that's the one that seems to fail more often. My doing the lower mount may be overkill, since I don't drive the car hard.
I did the same thing back in the spring: applied the GE clear silicone caulk to the cracks in the upper motor mount only. I didn't bother with the lower motor mount. The only scary part was when the engine shifted a tiny bit while supported by the lower mount and my jack only, but I was able to move the engine slightly and get the upper mount reinstalled okay. Overall this allowed my car to run a little smoother and it seems a little more responsive too.

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Old 11-30-2001, 11:46 PM   #8
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I 3M Window welded the 3 mounts. More Vibration. Awesome benifits; even if only percieved. Do it!

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