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#61 | |
Master Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North of North of Toronto, Northern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,090
1999 SL2
2001 SL1
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![]() Quote:
This is the photo of the RedLine product; they don't show a measurement for the protrusion of the 10mm ball however by eyeball it seems to be less. ![]()
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1999 SL2 MT (311,300 km @ 01/2023) 2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT 2011 Suburban LT Past Saturns 2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y) 1993 SW2 AT (10y) 2001 LW200 MT (3.5y) 1992 SL2 MT (5y) :canada: Last edited by trottida; 05-16-2019 at 03:01 PM. |
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#62 |
Super Member
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I dont think it is critical but you have to add 5mm to the measured value i posted as I measured to the ball centerline to a bit less than the absolute botom as the hood insulation edge is also there. 5mm is a bit less than 0.04" so that .5 + .04 = .54 + a small amount for the casual measurement. Redline may have changed the mount as the one I have is rather old.
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#63 |
Master Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North of North of Toronto, Northern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,090
1999 SL2
2001 SL1
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I ended up making my own brackets as the shipping from US into Canada was a deterrent in my quest to do this as low cost as possible using new parts.
I grabbed a couple pipe hangers (see photo below) from the hardware store plumbing department and modified them. I cut both them down to about 7/8ths of an inch in height. Just enough so when the hood was closed the upper didn't touch the UHJB and the lower didn't touch the hood. On the upper bracket I drilled 2 holes, one for the ball stud and one for a third rivet. The reasoning for the 3rd rivet hole is that the pipe hanger came with slotted 1/4" holes which were larger than the 3/16" rivets. The rivets held in the 1/4' holes but the 3rd 3/16" hole ensured it was attached securely to the hood with no risk of movement. On the lower I drilled 1 hole for the ball stud and changed the angle from 90 to ~115 degrees. I used a center punch to mark all the holes, drilled a small hole then stepped up until the finished hole size. Here's my final part list, costs and some photos of the finished installation on my 99 SL2 MT . My final cost was $38.58 CAD including taxes (about $28 USD).
Pipe Hanger
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1999 SL2 MT (311,300 km @ 01/2023) 2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT 2011 Suburban LT Past Saturns 2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y) 1993 SW2 AT (10y) 2001 LW200 MT (3.5y) 1992 SL2 MT (5y) :canada: |
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#64 |
Super Member
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Looks like you got it all working just fine.
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#65 |
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2023
Posts: 42
1998 SW2
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Found this tread and decided to give it a go. After reading many posts saying the 99 f-150 struts are about an inch too long, and can be a pain to compress, I figured why not look for ones that are an inch shorter.
The extended length of the f150 struts is 13.3 inches, so I looked around, and found that the trunk lift struts for 91-94 Mercury Capri are 12.3. So you can still grab all parts needed at a junkyard, or get the struts for $20 new- https://www.ebay.com/itm/403300745277 But, take a look at these that are 12.2 for $20- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0869...b_b_asin_title I went with the Arana ones in the Amazon link for a couple reasons. First, it came with the ball stud bolts you would need to pull from a Chrysler 300/ Dodge Intrepid. It actually comes with 4 bolts and nuts, but all the same size, so if you want to drill a hole like the Honda del sol method, all hardware is provided. Otherwise, you still need to get the smaller bolts (12mm deep socket), but the list of cars to pull from was much larger for the those, some Buicks, Cadillacs, Oldsmobiles and Pontiacs (list is in post #37). Second, and more importantly, they have struts with different weight tolerances available. After reading that the hood is 30lbs, I went with the 40lb struts, which according to their specifications are ideal for 30-44lbs. They actually clarify by saying, if the weight is <30lbs or >44lbs, do not buy. I'm guessing the f150 and Capri struts will probably work fine, however I couldn't find any information how much weight they are designed for. Lined right up great! Hood is even open slightly more, prop rod is about 2 inches from hole now. The Mercury Capri ones should be a great fit as well. You don't feel them when you're first opening it, but it gets lighter as you lift, then halfway up they take over and lift it the rest of the way, and hold it with no issues. Didn't get charged for the 2 bolts at the junkyard, just had to pay the $2 entry fee, so altogether this cost $22, and took less then 5 minutes to install. Great easy cheap mod!
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Prior Saturn's 96 SL1 manual 95 SW2 manual 97 SL1 manual |
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#66 |
Master Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North of North of Toronto, Northern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,090
1999 SL2
2001 SL1
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Looks great. The only thing that swayed me from going that route is that there is a risk of folding your hood having the attachment close to the hinge. The strut pressure has to be closely considered.
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1999 SL2 MT (311,300 km @ 01/2023) 2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT 2011 Suburban LT Past Saturns 2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y) 1993 SW2 AT (10y) 2001 LW200 MT (3.5y) 1992 SL2 MT (5y) :canada: |
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#67 |
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2023
Posts: 42
1998 SW2
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Thanks! I was concerned of the same thing as well, which is why I went with the Arana struts. Concerned the f150 struts are made for a heavier hood. I owned a 78 chevy truck when I was 19. Didn't realize the hinges on the hood were super stiff from rust, until I bent half the hood one day trying to pull it down. I just figured that's how much force it takes to shut an old truck hood. Amazed what some wd-40 did lol.
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Prior Saturn's 96 SL1 manual 95 SW2 manual 97 SL1 manual |
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