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#1 |
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I have a 94 1.9lt sohc that has 177,000 on it. I just started hearing a rattle sound coming from around the water pump area. It is not leaking any fluids., could it still be the pump? Is the changing of the pump the same as the dohc, that's all I could find in the posts.
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#2 |
Advanced Member
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Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 608
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very possible. and yes its the same.
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#3 |
Master Member
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check the heater return pipe, it may hit the firewall(if so i have the repair info)
http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/sho...p/photo/15888/
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Formerly - Saturn of Downers Grove Parts Department Current - Castle Chevy in Villa Park Parts Department EPA 608 Certification EPA 609 Certification |
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#4 |
Master Member
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Check your tensioner pulley. Mine sounded like the water pump area but it had just been replaced. It turned out that the tensioner pulley was bad.
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-96 SC2 gets 35 mpg mix city/hw. |
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#5 |
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So, what does it sound like?
I have a strange sound that from inside of the car you would almost swear is a valve tap. However it is not, it seems loudest over by the power steering pump, and the alternator. (Interesting is that it is harder to hear outside of the car, even with the hood up, and listening in the engine compartment.) However, the idler, and tensioner pulleys are both in the same general area. Mine sounds like a tapping, or clicking coming from the passanger side of the car. If you rev the engine it starts making the noise arounf 1200-1500 RPMs. It does NOT seem to be comming from the engine. Not sure about the water pump area, but I'll check. |
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#6 |
Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 65
2001 SC2
1996 SL1
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I have a '94 SL2 and I'm having the exact same problem. Still not convinced it is not the yalves but when I remove the oil cap, they volume does not increase as I would have thought it would. The noise sometimes comes and goes but when it is not rattling and I put load on the alternator, the noise seems to re-appear so I'm thinking it may be alternator related. But the load could also make one of the other belt-related items get noisy as well. I'm going to pull the belt off tomorrow and run the car to see if the noise disappears. I'm also going to pull the valve cover and check the cams, lifters and oil supply to those parts.
How loud is your rattling? Mine is very loud, almost deafening but my car also has 452,000 kms so it could be anything. I'll post a reply with what I find. |
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#7 | |
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95' SW2 131,000 Miles 32-MPG avg. |
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#8 |
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Location: Wheaton, IL
Posts: 113
1999 SL1
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it could be also a cracked rod
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#9 | |
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Posts: 32
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I just replaced the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley, and that cured my problem. I would have never guessed/ Sounded almost like a valve tap to me at first... Until I poked under the hood...then seemed to come from PowerSteering pump... BTW... on my 95 SC2, it was a royal pain in the *****.... I am not new to working on cars...there was zero room to work. I spent about 30 minutes just getting the bolt back in/on the idler pulley! If access to the parts wasn't an issue, this would have taken perhaps 10 minutes. It tool almost 2 hours! Next time I am taking the upper motor mount off to get room. BTW, I did jack vehicle up, removed tire and wheel well....still no room to work. |
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#10 |
Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 65
2001 SC2
1996 SL1
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Pulled the valve cover gasket and the timing chain is pretty much shot - it appears to have stretched and the upper chain guide (top of the motor on the left hand side (looking from the front)) has had the teflon runner (I think it's teflon or some plastic material) worn away. The chain sags down about 1/2" between the two gears. The upper guide is $45.00 Cdn but to do it properly I believe I should replace the chain and the tensioners as well. Not sure if it is worth it as the engine has 453,000 km and is also using a liter (1 quart approx. for those south of the border) every 250 km - that's why Ive been looking for a nice SC2 in around the 2001 vintage. Other than the engine, CV joints and clutch, the rest of the car is in great shape so I may sell her to someone who needs a good body and has a motor to put in. CRAP! Hate to see her go!
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#11 |
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Location: San Diego, CA
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if you do decide to go through with changing the timing chain, get the timing chain set from saturn. it comes with a chain, guides, sprockets, and tensioner. if your going to do it, you should do it right. you will also need a tube of the saturn silicone, or its aftermarket equivelant, i think the saturn stuff is made by permatex, but im not 100% on that.
as far as you oil consumption goes, you should do a search for saturn internal cleaning TSB. it is a thread i posted that has a cleaning procedure that ive had great success with. i would recommend giving it a shot if you decide to keep the car. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
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Sounds like I'm not the only one who's had a rattling tensioner after having bad luck with the NAPA/Gates tensioner went with Dayco and have had no problems since.
Another rattling belt tensioner problem solved!!!
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Its all about the coffee... '06 Mazda 6i & '95 Saturn SL1 |
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#13 |
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My rattling noise started a couple of weeks ago. It seems to do it only in the morning when the engine is cold. And then after ideling for 5 mins. it's quite. Sounds like a Mercedes deisel, when it's making the noise. It seems to be coming from under the rocker arm cover but when I pull the oil filler cap off there is no extra noise coming from the opening.
It's a 98 SL2 with 103,000 miles on it. ![]() |
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#14 | |
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Formerly - Saturn of Downers Grove Parts Department Current - Castle Chevy in Villa Park Parts Department EPA 608 Certification EPA 609 Certification |
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#15 | |
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#16 |
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20-50 may be a little to thick, i ran 10w-40 this summer with my bad chain(spec is 5W-30 or 10W-30)
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Formerly - Saturn of Downers Grove Parts Department Current - Castle Chevy in Villa Park Parts Department EPA 608 Certification EPA 609 Certification |
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#17 |
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I was hearing a clicking/grinding sound in my 99 SC1. It turns out that the plastic cover over my AC clutch was ripped almost all the way off.
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#18 | |
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