Changing Engine/Transmission Mounts (2001 SL)

[SlayZombi]

Took me about 5 hours to change all of the mounts on my 2001 SL. I assume that they are 18 years old considering it had the original thermostat and ECTS with the nylon tip when I got it. They weren't in the WORST condition but still cracked and old. You wouldn't BELIEVE the quality of life change once they are new. Almost zero interior rattling/vibration. It took me 5 hours because of the fact that this is my first time changing any mounts plus I was using a jack/wood for lifting the engine and trans instead of the proper cherry picker. For all of you who are thinking about doing the mounts, there are some good videos that Richpin does that helped me out a good bit. Here are some links and info that you may want to take a look at if you want a fun little weekend job for your trusty Saturn:

Links to tutorials for all but one mount:
Transmission (bottom) - https://youtu.be/36SgFoVkoyM
Engine (bottom) - https://youtu.be/sRGBDRGA5t8
Engine (top) - https://youtu.be/9fF5NT-6jHs

Locations for the mounts:
- For the top engine mount, it's at the left side (duh) with three studs/nuts holding engine to the mount and two holding mount to the frame.
- For the bottom engine mount, take off passenger wheel and both splash guards. It's right underneath the bottom-most pulley (Crankshaft pulley??)
- For the "top" transmission mount, at least for the manual transmission, it's right on the side of the frame underneath the airbox. If you can't take off the airbox, which was the case for me due to a stripped bolt, you can still access it from underneath but it's a little harder.
- For the bottom transmission mount, all you have to do is take off the drivers side wheel and the splash guard. Boom, it's right there on the frame.

Mount kit I used:
SKP mount kit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...75028&jsn=1041
WARNING - The picture clearly shows that it comes with TWO wishbone mounts but it actually only came with one, so I had to get the other mount from Autozone in a pinch. If you want the other mount kit (only two options), it's called a DEA/Marmon ride control kit and it actually does include all 4 mounts.

How to do this if you have limited access to equipment and space:
I did this whole job in my apartment parking lot with a typical mechanic tool kit and a small 2 ton jack. I started by taking off both wheels. Get the car on two jack stands pretty high up for better clearance underneath. On the top mount take off the two bolts holding the mount to the frame and NOT THE THREE BOLTS!! After that, jack up the engine by the oil pan WITH WOOD. Make sure the weight is evenly dispensed across the pan and that the jack is centered. You only really want to jack it up until the mount is off the frame and is not bearing any weight. From here, you can now take off the 3 bolts holding the mount to the engine. That was the easiest mount in my opinion. With the car still up in the air, go down to the location of the bottom wishbone mount I described above. Simply take both bolts off (one on each side of the mount). You might need to jack the engine up just a little more in order to have enough clearance to get that bottom mount out. Put a new one in and tighten both bolts until they are almost tight. DO NOT tighten it all the way. The mount still needs to swivel when you put the engine back down. With both new mounts on, begin lowering the engine until the top mount is flush with the frame. Put the 3 nuts securing the mount to the engine back on and also put the 2 nuts securing the mount to the frame back on. Now that the engine is down completely, you can finally fully tighten the two bolts for the bottom wishbone mount. You're done with one side! Next side is a bit easier. For the "top" transmission mount under the airbox, it actually is not weight bearing at all so you can simply unbolt and de-attach it without jacking the car up at all. For the bottom one resting on the frame, you need to first take off the nut hidden underneath the mount. You will see holes in the frame rail right underneath the mount and one of them has the nut I'm talking about inside of it. After that, it's time to raise the transmission up. I would suggest the jacking point to be right where the engine meets trans, it seems strongest there. Jack it up until the mount comes out and the stud clears the frame. Next, take the two bolts off holding the mount to the trans (should be 2 small 10 MM bolts right at the top of the mount). Put the new mount on and LIGHTLY secure the two 10MM bolts back onto the mount, I would say about 3/4 of the way in. The reason you want this is because you'll need some play to get the mount's stud back into the frame hole (trust me, you'll know what I mean when you get there). When you are ready to lower it, you will probably want some kind of prybar to push the trans back towards the engine. If you are like me and don't have it, you can push the mount with your foot while lowering it to get the stud back into the hole. After it's set in place, put the bottom nut back on tight underneath. You're done! All 4 done! All of the bolts were between 10-15 so it shouldn't require too much messing around with sockets. The only suggestion I would make is to have a deep 15MM socket to make life easier (and to make getting the top mount off possible!).

Hope this post wasn't too long-winded. It really did make a huge difference in the way the car feels when idling and even when driving. Good luck! here are some pics of the old mounts. They weren't too bad but definitely dried out and cracking due to the Arizona climate:

[Goggles Pisano]

Did you use the Prothane inserts for those dogbone mounts?

[SlayZombi]

Originally Posted by Goggles Pisano

Did you use the Prothane inserts for those dogbone mounts?

Honestly don't know what that is so I'm gonna say no.

[Waiex191]

See picture:


The '98 has these. The '99 has a cheap pair. They both seem good.

[SlayZombi]

Originally Posted by Waiex191

See picture:


The '98 has these. The '99 has a cheap pair. They both seem good.

Nope, just the standard rubber.